San Sebastian, 2017

We first visited San Sebastian in the early fall of 2015, (see the original blog post here: http://spybirdtravel.blogspot.com.es/search?updated-min=2015-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2016-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=6 ) and we could not wait to get back. 

Being there in January this year afforded us a very special and unexpected opportunity --- Tamborrada 2017. This is the most important holiday of the year in San Sebastian (which is also called Donostia, if you don't know), and it is a huge deal. The origins have something to do with the expulsion of Napoleon's French army and the part played by local chefs harassing the French occupying force by beating pots and pans. You can check out the Wiki version here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamborrada
So nowadays, on Tamborrada, everything shuts down for 24 hours so that everyone --- I mean everyone --- can march in parades, gather in the main square, and play traditional songs, mostly on drums. All of the town's famous eating societies dress up to the nines as chefs and soldiers. Kids have school marching uniforms. Each group has a 24-hour itinerary that calls for marching and drumming to any number of points in the city, playing a few tunes, being rewarded with food, wine and beer, and chilling a few minutes before getting back into marching mode. Forget sleeping or avoiding the festivities --- those are not options. It's a Basque Blast, and you're all in.

I learned from locals that people who work out of the city and students studying abroad often return to San Sebastian to go out with friends and march on this holiday. And it is apparently a great honor to be invited to a friend's gastronomic society to march. The locals love Tamborrada; they get misty-eyed when they talk about it.

Fortunately, during this highest of holidays, we were staying at the ultra-fabulous Hotel Maria Cristina http://www.hotel-mariacristina.com. If you go to SS, please don't consider staying anywhere else. This rococo jewel is elegant and comfortable, and so visually pleasing in every way. We were upgraded by the manager Styge to a suite, and we were almost giddy when we saw it. The service is first rate, and everyone is very kind and helpful. Yes, this is a splurge, but it is one you should make. You won't regret it, and YOLO.

Back to the story... The Maria Cristina offered its guests a special dinner event at the hotel. It began at 8:30 pm and ended at 3:00 am the next morning, and included a fine dinner with Basque specialties, a visit from one of the gastronomic club drum corps, a DJ with dancing, drinks, of course drumsticks and a wooden drum board. It was great fun, very festive and the natives were friendly. If you made it to 3 am, you got churros and chocolate, or garlic soup. (Not sure I get the garlic soup part, but I did not last that late anyway.)

Two friends get ready to march

In the main square, action central

Head chef leads the drumming at Maria Cristina

Tamborrada party in full swing

School kids in marching regalia

Many things in life are never as good the second time. Repeat food experiences often suffer from this phenomenon; maybe you've noticed. Well, not so with the group Pinxtos Hunting Tour done with San Sebastian Food (www.sansebastianfood.com). The tour has been recommended by international publications, is well-run, and a great social experience. At 95E per person, the tour also turns out to be a great value. Once again, we had six stops, all the food/drink was arranged for us, and we felt like insiders in the know. As a bonus, our wonderful local guide provided us with a summary of our experience by e-mail together with a cheesecake recipe and other recommendations for eating in the city. This is not to be missed, and if you can somehow get Lourdes as your guide, you will have a blast. 

3 fave pinxtos: roast pig with pimento and herb oil, "cod bonfire" with
herb aioli and liquid salad, sunchokes with foie & hazelnuts. All so good!

Here is the list of stops from our pinxtos tour on January 18:

-Gorriti, by La Bretxa market….Anchoas Rebozadas (battered anchovies with red pepper), Txistorra (local fresh chorizo), Txakoli (local white wine) and Beronia crianza from Rioja Alta.

-Urola, Calle Fermín Calbetón…Pulpo (octopus), Alcachofas (artichokes with almond praliné), Gilda (traditional pintxo with pickled pepper, olives and anchovy), Champis (mushrooms with mashed potato), Bolo Godello from Valdeorras and Amézola crianza from Rioja Alavesa.

-Zeruko, Calle Pescadería…La Hoguera (cod bonfire), Anguila Ahumada (smoked eel), Alcachofa con Foie (golden artichoke with foie and nuts), Tomatito (false baby tomato with tuna), Enate Chardonnay from Somontano region and Marqués de Murrieta Rioja.

-Txuleta, Plaza de la Trinidad…Pimiento Relleno de Rabo ( piquillo pepper stuffed with oxtail), Croquetas de Txuleta (steak croquettes) and Finca Resalso red wine from Ribera de Duero.

-Sirimiri, Calle Mayor…Cordero (slow cooked lamb) and Remelluri crianza from Rioja.

-Atari, by Santa María Church…Torrija (basque french toast), Cava, Pedro Ximénez sweet sherry and Orujo de Hierbas (herbs liquor).

When I last wrote about San Sebastian in 2015, I went out on a limb, and proclaimed that in my mundo, this town has the best food I've ever experienced. I'm doubling down. San Sebastian is food mecca, and you don't need to go Michelin star to eat like a queen. Note that it's great in the off season. Hope you are inspired to get out there. It's a bit of traveling, because there is no direct access from outside Europe, but it's well worth the effort.