Madrid, 2017

We're mad about Madrid. For many American tourists, it is Europe's forgotten capital city. But why? It has several world class museums, fantastic green space, and some wonderful eating adventures. There is a handy Metro if you don't want to use taxis. And right now, the Euro is about 1.1 USD; that's a big improvement over recent history. Off-season in Europe is a beautiful thing for savvy travelers.

Last trip to Madrid was 2015 and I posted about it September 12, 2015. You can read the review here: http://spybirdtravel.blogspot.com.es/search?updated-min=2015-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2016-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=6 .

 This time, we skipped The Prado but went to the Thyssen-Bornemizma (or simply "The Thyssen"), and enjoyed a great exhibit on "The Intimate Renoir," some masterworks by Hopper, Lichtenstein, Dali and others, and even a few boxes by my childhood neighbor, Joseph Cornell. The Thyssen's web site is here: http://www.museothyssen.org/en/thyssen/home

Dali's "Girl at the Window"

There's a pretty good cafeteria/restaurant at The Thyssen also.

The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia http://www.museoreinasofia.es or The Reina Sofia, is an absolute tour de force, especially in the area of 20th century art of various media. Picasso's Guernica is here, as is a continuous showing of Bunuel's Andalusian Dog. Post-modern and surrealism are well-represented. The space in the main venue is clean and un-cluttered. Check the museum's web site for "associated" activities that include film, dance and lecture.

The Reina Sofia also boasts a fine restaurant called Arzabel. We plucked up our courage and tried the recommended sea anemones  (locally called ortiguillas) which the waiter told us were electric, but luckily for us, were not. They are fried and taste like a savory clam. The artichoke hearts, fresh and in season, were delicious also. For some reason, the restaurant serves butter from a giant barrel tub. It must hold five or six pounds of butter. It's not clear why a restaurant would use the same butter for everyone, but they must, I guess.

tasty ortiguillas

As you can see, we've already steered away from culture and into food....

I highly recommend Ten Con Ten on Calle Ayala 6. http://www.restaurantetenconten.com . It is so good, we had to go twice. Call my girl Adela and reserve a table so you're not disappointed. This is not very fancy, but somewhat trendy with 30-40-something date crowd. The second night, staff seemed a bit friendlier; maybe that's only natural. Some suggestions:  the burrata and strawberry salad, the artichoke hearts with spinach and potato puree, and the osso buco cannelloni. The oxtail meatball is also surprisingly awesome. Desserts are also well worth your consideration.

Ten Con Ten: burrata salad, 'chokes and cannelloni

The other major revelation from this trip to Madrid was a fine Mexican Restaurant called Punto Mx, where Chef Roberto Ruiz has earned his first Michelin star. http://puntomx.es . It is simply superb. This restaurant sources almost all of its product from its own organic crops, they make their own tortillas, and they show imagination and loving care in all preparations. As an added bonus, Punto Mx has a killer mezcal collection ( I enjoyed del Marguey Tempextrate for the first time) and "The Mezcal Lab" upstairs for drinks and small bites. This is where I would live if Madrid were my home. Eating at Punto Mx is fun and unpretentious. Guacamole made at the table is fabulous. The braised duck enchilada is to die for, as are the panuchos. But here is the surprise: one of the best desserts I have ever eaten. It was lemon gelatin cubes, with soft, slightly sweet avocado balls that burst in your mouth, sweet corn flautas, and homemade coconut ice cream. It doesn't sound so incredible, but trust me, it tastes perfect after a great Mexican meal!

Incredibly delicious dessert at Punto MX.

I was knocked out by Punto MX. No chef in Oaxaca has anything on Chef Ruiz.

For a really different dining experience, Castafiore on Calle Marques de Monasterio includes opera performances by very talented waitstaff. I learned that they have professional singing gigs when not at the restaurant. They act out little scenes around random tables and put the music right in your face. The effect is pretty cool.

Unfortunately, dining at Castafiore means you have to eat their food, and that's really difficult to do. The food is, in my humble opinion, well, horrible. Even a ham bocadillo with some cheese would have been better than the frozen fish in unidentified green sauce and baby eels. Couldn't eat my dinner, but enjoyed the show, the ebullient owner, the conga line through the kitchen that ended the night. So is it worth 40 euros? Not sure. I don't regret the evening, I just wish Castafiore would choose there or four items -- even pasta and tomato sauce would do, and try not to do cuisine. They can't.

The Rastro, Madrid's weekly flea market, is a lot of fun. It happens on Sundays at  Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores. Trash and treasure, antiques, junktiques and crafts, it's all fun to browse through.

Rastro treasures

If you go to The Rastro, you must grab a sandwich at Martina Cocina. Absolutely fantastic homemade bread, salads, empanadas, desserts etc. Definitely a great place for brunch.

Finally a hotel review. We stayed at The Hotel Orfila on Calle Orfila, close to Colon Metro stop. This is a Relais & Chateaux property, which is always a sign of high quality. The staff is very friendly, and when we pointed out that we were never told there would be a charge for breakfast (and they satisfied themselves that this info did not appear on our booking), they removed one of the three days' charge. The rooms are roomy and the location is great. My only complaint is that the property is a little tired. I would probably try another hotel next time.