spybird travel

spybird travel

Sunday, November 1, 2020

MIDCOAST MAINE / Summer & Fall, 2020

          It is indisputable that the Covid-19 Pandemic affected people everywhere, all around the world. Local travel around New England was no exception, and various states created legal fences and impediments --- some more impermeable than others --- to deal with the rampant spread of the virus. Maine was especially pro-active, with Governor Mills promulgating strict regulations relative to travel, isolating and testing. Some of these were enforced by inn-keepers and hotels. 

        The results of Maine's hard-nosed approach were interesting to see. For one thing, there was no traffic this year. None, even on weekends. For another, Maine's own population did remarkably well containing Covid-19, with a few notable exceptions (one involving a flying preacher and large wedding party up north). Still another result was that many businesses found ways to offer open air food and entertainment options, and these were well-supported and appreciated by locals and "folks from away" alike. For example, the magnificent Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens did great guns this summer, with limited entry numbers, social distancing, and masking. Farmers'  markets were ever-popular, as were all the "eat-in-the-rough" lobster and oyster establishments. There were tourists, but not nearly as many of them. 

       In the midst of the horrible and deadly pandemic, summer life in mid-coast Maine was a bit slower and more isolated. For those who were here, there was a healthy sense of caution and control, but there was also a unhurried vibe that married well with the first mellow summer of the 23 I've spent in midcoast Maine. 

      Our band 32 North may be an appropriate barometer for the experience of the 2020 season. We played 10 public gigs compared to 23 the year before. But all of the events had Covid protocols, all were outdoors, and all were well attended but not crowded. Masks were on when we were off the bandstand. Gary ate his band snack in his car. But it worked out fine, and it was still pleasant. 

     Through all of these challenges, we still need to eat and drink, don't we? 

     So this post brings a few new recommendations and second endorsements.

Here is my post about Delano's Seafood Shack from last year:

1. Delano's Seafood Shack. 100 Atlantic Highway, Waldoboro, ME. https://lcnme.com/business/delano-seafood-shack-opens-in-waldoboro/ I had low expectations for this new seafood shack, but tasting is believing. It sits next door to Delano's Seafood, a retail establishment with a good reputation for fresh local seafood. If you love the stuff like I do, the Shack does a terrific job with fried haddock and scallop baskets. "Good count, good quality," as my buddy Irving used to say. And reasonable prices. There's also soft-serve ice cream on site.

Delano's is even better now than it was before. The "shack" used for take-out ordering has expanded its repertoire with more sandwiches, burgers, etc. Its fried seafood is excellent and oh-so-fresh. The fried haddock basket, which is the golden metric in my world, is the second best I've had in the area (second only to the goddess Bet, of Bet's Fishfry in Boothbay). Management tells me they will be open year round.

The ice-cream shack is ready to rock, but has been held up by some administrative approval and Covid. Look for it in 2021.

INSIDE the fish market on the same property, super-fresh seafood is available at retail prices that are about 40% cheaper than what we pay in Boston. The "sushi grade" tuna at about $11./lb is fantastic, as is the Maine salmon and crabmeat. In the frozen section, you can often buy "heat and eat" meals like scallops and crabmeat with Ritz crackers and butter for $12. Overall, Delano's offers great value and excellent quality. Really nice folks, too.

On Wednesday evenings during the summer, the owner and his buddies bring their pristine antique cars and trucks to the big parking lot to show off. There is a large picnic area with tables, trees and a brook. It's all good fun.

Our friend Jennifer turned us onto The Hoot in Northport, Maine https://www.thehootnorthport.com     The Hoot represents the best kind of "farm to table" experience, serving delicious and imaginative food without pretense and with reasonable prices. Come to The Hoot for brunch and dinner, and experience Mexican Sweet Potato Hash, or Asian Char Sui Pork Omelet, or incredible Turkish food on one of its ethnic nights. There is outdoor seating, or indoor seating that is comfortably ventilated. This is absolutely one of the best all around eating experiences I've had in Maine. Unfortunately, the word is out, and waiting to get a table is common (but worth it). Thanks, Jennifer!

Finally, a pizzeria. Yes, I know pizza is pretty ubiquitous and generally mediocre in most places. I had three uncles in the New York pizza business growing up. One of them was a pretty major player. So I think I know my pizza (doesn't everyone?). But Oysterhead Pizza in Damariscotta https://www.oysterheadpizzaco.com does a very good job.  They use fresh ingredients, brick ovens and high quality meats to create very tasty pizzas, and also delicious sides. We suggest a large pizza with sausage, carmelized onions or shallots, and spicy vinegar peppers. Their "magic beans" (stringbeans) are also very good, as are their s'mores for dessert. 

We have had minor issues with getting orders just right, and the pizza dough is just a bit thicker than I'd like, but this is excellent pizza and very convenient. 

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A few more suggestions, these for going outdoors:

RIVERBROOK PRESERVE, WALDOBORO https://www.midcoastconservancy.org  A great place to hike with lots of varied terrain, an abandoned mill and river. Very small parking lot, off 220.

BEECH HILL PRESERVE, ROCKPORT https://www.mainetrailfinder.com/trails/trail/beech-hill-preserve Lovely, and fairly easy walk up a hill to the site of an old homestead. Wild blueberry bushes. Since the top of the hill is "bald," there are good vistas and bird-watching.

I know many friends were discouraged from visiting Maine this season for a number of reasons related to Covid and restrictions on the state's tourism. I am sorry to hear this. Hopefully there will be reasons to open the state more next year. In the meantime, I am happy to answer any questions I can.