Beaune, France / Kevin O' Leary

      Many of you may know Kevin O'Leary as a shark on ABC's Shark Tank show. Mr. O'Leary is an oenophile and wine producer, and lives down the street in Boston's Back Bay.

      The following excerpt is from a recent interview with Boston Magazine:

      "What's the one thing every person should do before they die?

       I think everybody should go to Beaune, France, and walk those streets, which are from medieval times, and drink some Burgundy wine. Because those guys don't give a shit about anything. They don't care if the economy is booming or if it's failing --- they just don't give a shit. And when you get there, you realize there's some merit to that way of thinking. You'll find an 80-year-old couple sitting in a bar at 2 in the afternoon drinking a bottle of Burgundy, enjoying their lives."

        I remember visiting Beaune and the vineyards in the area, doing a few tastings, eating at some superb restaurants and marveling at the beauty of the Burgundy area. But that was 30 years ago. I need a refresher visit. In the meantime, Mr. O'Leary's advice seems sound and very sane to me.

 

Midcoast Maine 2016

       If you know me at all, you know how much I adore midcoast Maine. I'm speaking now of the area beginning in Brunswick (about 3 hours travel by car from Boston) and ending in Belfast. Most of this part of the Pine Tree State is coastal or near water, and after 20 years, it continues to blow me away with its beauty, food offerings, leisure and friendly folks. 

       This summer I visited The Maine Coastal Botanical Garden http://www.mainegardens.org for the first time, and it is spectacular. Open from mid-April to the end of October, the Garden comprises 270 acres of tidal shoreline and serves over 100,000 visitors a year. With good reason. The gardens are lovely, interesting and well-maintained. Our favorite is the Lerner Garden of Five Senses, designed for a lady who was going blind, and engaging all the senses with a garden-lover in mind. There is also a calming and scenic Meditation Garden down by the water. There are tours daily, and our tour guide Ron was very informative and good company. If you get hungry, there's a wonderful restaurant onsite with indoor and outdoor seating. The Botanical Garden will be expanding soon as the result of a recent land gift.  It is a gem of New England, well worth a visit and the $16. admission.

Enormous hibiscus in full bloom

                 I have blogged here at spybird about fried fish offerings, because good fried fish is just about my favorite food. All of the fish we're discussing here is fresh native haddock. We don't bother if it ain't fresh and local. Here are my rankings for 2016, after serious testing and tasting, and another inch on my waist:

                 #5: Pemaquid Lobster Co-op, Co-op Road Pemaquid Harbor, Maine. This is the place I bring people for a great lobsta-in-the rough-experience. Order at the window and sit outside with a hilltop view of Pemaquid Harbor. Bring a salad and bottle of white wine, and that's livin! The property just received a facelift. The lobsters are super-sweet. BUT... the fried fish was just okay. Fresh, yes, but little pieces with too much batter. $11. Stick to the lobsters. 

                 #4: Sea Basket, 303 Bath Road, Wiscasset, Maine.  Very tasty fried fish with generic fries, and generic tartar. The place is very clean and there are lots of food choices. Basket costs $11.

                 #3 Deb's Diner, Route 1, Waldoboro. Locals love Deb's, and with good reason. This is a diner experience that never leaves one hungry. The fried fish only happens on Friday. It's $11. if I recall, and comes with one of Deb's award-winning biscuits. It's absolutely delicious --- crispy and moist. The fish is super fresh. Check it out:

Deb's does it right

             #2: Hot Fat Truck, Delano's Seafood, Route 1, Waldoboro, Maine. Hot Fat is the new kid on the block, just opening this year in Waldoboro after a stint on Monhegan island. It is a heaping helping of fish lightly fried, and Cap'n. Mattie's spuds are from Maine. The tartar comes in two flavors --- regular or jalepeno --- and the $14. price is well worth the quality. I hope they come back next year.

            #1 Bet's Fried Fish, Boothbay Center, Maine. 

            First, how I found her. Cheryl and I were leaving Morse's Sauerkraut, which is another great eatery in Waldoboro, when I came upon your classic Maine codger and his wife standing next to their old pick-up, which had a Bet's bumper sticker. He was working his toothpick and enjoying a moment of digesting. I said to him, "Sir, is that Bet's a good fish place?" He looked at me knowingly and said, "I'll tell you what, son, that fish is some good." His wife nodded once in obvious approval. I was there a few days later.

            Bet is a goddess of the seafood realm. She has a shack with some picnic tables right off the town green in Boothbay. She cooks fish that she sources from her own boat (so I've heard), and serves giant filets with dill tartar and homemade Maine fries (with hot potato chips mixed in). It is ridiculously tasty. And the half portion (see below) is $9.00. This is the gold standard, third year running.

Marshall Point Lighthouse, Port Clyde, Maine, etc.

                

Port Clyde and St. George are sweet towns on a peninsula off Thomaston, Maine. The Lighthouse at Marshall Point is very picturesque and sometimes overlooked in favor of the more famous Pemaquid Lighthouse. This lighthouse was the finishing point of Forrest Gump's run east in the 1993 film of the same name, and there are photos of Tom Hanks visiting the locals on site at the small but informative museum.  There are good swimming beaches nearby, and when you're ready for a terrific lunch, try the homemade German food at The Happy Clam on River Road in St. George. 

Sumbawa and HAS / please read!

       I hope that everyone is off to an excellent spring, and send warm greetings to friends, family and readers. This is a wonderful time of year, isn't it? Lots of re-birth and renewal, and making plans for summer fun... And for me, this was a very special March and April for a lot of reasons, but mostly because of my experiences traveling, and especially the time spent at the HAS clinic in Sumbawa, Indonesia. Sumbawa is an island two east of Bali; it is beautiful, poor and undeveloped.

       Some of you may know that Cheryl found my new friend Jack Kennedy for me, through an article about him in our local Maine newspaper. About two years ago Jack founded a project called Health Access Sumbawa (www.healthaccesssumbawa.org). The organization is a partnership among Jack and two friends, founded with the mission of wiping out malaria in three remote villages on the island of Sumbawa, Indonesia. HAS also planned to build and operate a sustainable health clinic to test and treat locals for malaria, while providing a community center for village use.

       What I saw in March during my visit to the clinic and those villages was remarkable and inspiring:
        ~ a finished clinic building outfitted with electricity, a good-sized front porch, and running water (the only running water in town!)
       ~ an organic irrigated garden already yielding veggies
       ~ cabinets stocked with medical supplies, gauze, etc.
       ~  extra treated bed nets beyond those that HAS already distributed and installed house by house for every occupant of all three villages. "Thanks to some friends and villagers providing transport, we have completed the bed net distribution part of our program, 569 in all, and ahead of schedule," Jack said with a smile. "We keep extras here as the need arises."
       ~ I met the nurse who will study microscopy this summer at the WHO-certified malaria facility belonging to The Sumba Foundation. A microscope has been ordered for his use, so malaria detection will be quick and accurate.

clinic main room, cabinet now stocked

       Beyond this, it has become clear that the clinic must be ready to treat villagers for medical issues beyond malaria, and Jack's organization is already responding in ways I witnessed. Older men came over to choose a pair of reading glasses from some department store pairs Jack brought along. One young man, injured while building a village well, has been given a wheel chair. Stool softener and catheters he needs have been added to the HAS budget. While I was there Jack arranged some sterilized "delivery kits" for local midwives through a surfing nurse from Australia we met in Lakey, across the bay.

On the front porch

       In the early evening, the front porch of the clinic becomes a community center with kids playing, young men practicing English and playing chess. A village lady comes by to get some of the pole beans from the clinic garden, and later returns with a gift of mountain honey. The children are quite adorable. Jack and I went over to schools in two villages to give an English lesson. They held our hands and gave us a warm send off.

Jack and the kids at English class

       Jack and his partners are doing incredible work to serve these 1000 people, and they are working on a "lean and mean" budget. There are very few administrative costs, and because the project is so focused in nature, its goals are do-able, and currently on schedule. I saw all of this with my own eyes. Imagine wiping out malaria in three villages within the next two years, and improving the health and quality of life for 1000 people going forward.

     PLEASE do me this favor: look at the website for www.healthaccesssumbawa.org and check out the work it is doing, photographs, etc. Some of you have already generously supported this work through purchase of my tune Fingersnap of Time by our studio group, the A Team Band, here: http://monterisimusic.com/listen-watch. I am very grateful to you! IF you haven't yet, please consider even a small contribution. These can be made either through the HAS website or purchase of my music (100% will be sent to HAS), or if you have some other idea or talent that may be useful, please e-mail Jack directly at jackinmaine@live.com.

     I am committed to helping Jack do this wonderful work, and I hope you might join me. Any assistance at all is meaningful at this level. The yearly budget is a modest $10,000, although there are a few more capital expenditures to be made. The dollar leverage is great --- without a lot of admin or overhead, the money gets to the bottom line.

     Many thanks for reading this! Many thanks for your time and support. Sending you blessings and my best wishes always.

     John



     

Vietnam Whirlwind

     I'm not sure why I'm so surprised at this, but Vietnam blew me away.

     It is warm and welcoming, offers delicious, fresh food and sight-seeing, exciting cities, sumptuous resorts and great value for your tourist dollar. This spring I spent only a week in Vietnam, under the wing of Abercrombie & Kent. It was barely enough time to scratch the surface. Our itinerary was limited to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Hoi An, and Hanoi to finish, and I know I missed a lot of great touring opps. But here are some quick tips and biased opinions to encourage and guide the newbie:

     SAIGON. We were very concerned at first about using the right name for the former capital of South Vietnam, but it turns out that people there just choose the name they relate to best. The older folks seem to favor Saigon, although younger hipsters use this name also. Ho Chi Minh City is obviously politically correct, but not popular with most people we met in the tourist world.

     Saigon is electric, feels young and full of commerce. It is built on a numbered "district" plan that borrows from the Parisian idea of arrondissement. There are pockets of fancy stores and swanky hotels in District 1. We stayed in the Hotel Des Arts on 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St in District 3, but very close to attractions. This is an Mgallery property that has a great rooftop bar, a boutique feel, and a deluxe breakfast.

     Temple Club (www.templeclub.com.vn) is an old restaurant in District 1, with an informal, colonial vibe, friendly waiters and solid food. Stick to local specialties.

     GRAIN Cooking Studio (www.grainbyluke.com) Level 3 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, provides a wonderful hands-on four course cooking class and is a great introduction to the flavors of Vietnamese food. We rocked Pumpkin Flowers Stuffed with Prawn & Dill, Chicken & Cabbage Salad with Jellyfish, and Marinated Sea Bass with Green Mango Salad, cooked in banana leaf and super-tasty, if I don't say so myself! A great experience and so nurturing.

my sea bass dish, steamed in banana leaf

     We had a guided tour of the Reunification Hall, originally the presidential palace before the Fall of Saigon in 1975, and saw Notre Dame Cathedral briefly.

     A high point in Saigon was the Vespa Bike Tour, night-time version courtesy of Vietnam Vespa Adventures (www.vespaadventures.com) . It starts with a cocktail and appeteaser at Cafe Zoom and a meeting with your experienced Vespa guide. Then, you are given a tour through five stops in the city, each with a food or beverage experience, from China Town to an island district for seafood, then the best Banh Xeo (Vietnamese "pizza") in town, then an intimate coffee house with romantic music, and finally a club with a local rock band and drinks. It lasts 4.5 hours and costs $93. The Vespas are extra cool because they are vintage mid-1960s and gorgeous machines. The experience can be hair-raising, but it is safe and so much fun. It really gives you a sense of the city. The team gives you a souvenir photo. Highly recommended.

A Vespa food stop at the venerable Banh Xeo

     HOI AN. Located about 15 miles southeast of the airport at Danang, Hoi An is an ancient town that sits on the banks of Thu Bon River about 3 miles inland from the coast. That coast has a gorgeous and clean white sand beach where GIs used to come for R&R during the Vietnam War. Back then it was called China Beach. Hoi An was a port and melting pot for eastern and western cultures. Nowadays, there is still a thriving silk industry, farming and tourism. The town itself is incredibly romantic and sweet. Lots of silk lanterns, a 400-year-old Japanese bridge, old French architecture, shops and restaurants near the water.

many silk lanterns in Hoi An

   Organic Vegetable Farming / Fishing Tour. This experience was a wonderful and very "hands on" full day of activities provided by Jack Tran's EcoTours (www.jacktranecotourshoian.com). It included working in the fields, riding a water buffalo, fishing by two local methods, and acting silly in the "coconut boat." There was also some wonderful swimming off the boat before lunch, prepared with considerable expertise by "Captain Cook" on board. I must add here that lunch on this fairly small boat --- with no galley to speak of --- was first rate: stuffed calamari, giant prawns with salt, pepper and lime, and other treats. Yes, I was hungry because of all my "labors" doing chores with the locals, but no doubt "Captain Cook" was awesome.

     Ganesh Fine Indian Cuisine (www.ganesh.vn) is in old town, Hoi An. If you like Indian food, and want a break from Vietnamese, this is first rate and fairly inexpensive. The reviews on the internet do not lie. Maybe the best Indian food I've had outside of India.

     Vietnam Vespa Adventures (see above), part 2. The Hoi An branch of this fine company takes you to a typical ancestral temple, two home industries (mat weaving and bahn dap rice crackers), over "an adrenaline pumping" 300 meter bamboo bridge, to a coffee roaster, and a seafood lunch on the shores of Ha My beach. It is great fun, educational, and supports the locals. Everyone was welcoming and we had a particularly sweet experience with the Rice Cracker Maiden, who posed for a pic with Cheryl.

Across on the back of a Vespa? Ok, sure..

     Nam Hai Resort, Hoi An. http://www.ghmhotels.com/en/nam-hai/ At the risk of being snooty, let me say this is the ONLY place to stay in Hoi An. It is bliss. TA Certificate of Excellent, Hall of Fame  and 94% excellent rating. Expensive? Oh yes. But fantastic villas, a gorgeous two-tiered infinity pool, bikes for free, delicious food, badminton, free activities, gym, library, shuttle service in and out of the old town AND a perfect beach with virtually no one on it. People seem to love their jobs and are very helpful. There are planned activities and special pools for kids. 

Beach or pool? The choice is yours.

      Breakfast was included in our package and it was epic is size and scope. There was a Vietnamese noodle dish with pork that was incredible, and Indian roti. Any kind of fruit or juice you can imagine. And that terrific Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, over ice. Perfect.

     The Nam Hai is one of the top five properties I've stayed at. You should, too.

     HANOI is a very pretty capital city of about 7 million and boasts city center with lots of trees, green space and lovely French architecture. Walking around downtown may belie the fact that Hanoi is growing rapidly. According to PriceWaterhouseCooper, it is the largest growing city in the world in terms of GDP, based on industry booming in the suburbs. 

      The Old Quarter near Hoan Kiem lake (also known as Sword Lake), is very interesting, with streets named for the craft or service its inhabitants deal in. Merchants, local food shops and stalls are everywhere. A visit by pedi-cab is fun. We also visited Ho Chi Minh's Museum and home, and the Hanoi Hilton, where John McCain was in residence at one time.

     One of the best parts of our trip to Hanoi was walking through the back streets with our new friend Thao. She works with Abercrombie & Kent as a guide when she is not touring with her own company,  Vietnam by Vespa (www.vietnambyvespa.com). Thao has a great insider's perspective on Hanoi, especially eating and drinking there. She took us to several small food shops and stalls for banh my, pho, bun thang and other tasty treats. Then we visited the Hang Be Market with all of its exotic fruits and vegetables, and tried a few treats from merchant carts.  I had to sample betel nut, as it reminded me of fresh paan that I love so well. There was much amusement among local ladies, to be sure.

     One of the most interesting stops for me was at the venerable coffee house Cafe Ciang, which back in 1946 gave birth to one of Hanoi's specialties --- egg cappuccino. Creamy and satisfying, this invention came from post-war scarcity of milk. It is delicious and not to be missed. 

the lovely Ms. Thao with egg cappuccino

    We really enjoyed Thao's company. She is knowledgeable and informative, and what she told us about her life growing up in Hanoi was very interesting. As icing on the cake, she will e-mail you a list of the places you visited with her and what you ate or saw. Please look her up and use her services. Highly recommended.

    The water puppet show (Roi Nuoc) is fun entertainment featuring artists standing waist-deep in water making puppets move, laugh, dance and talk. Traditional music is played live and there is some singing as well. Great for all ages.

     The Sofitel Legend Metropole in Hanoi should be its own destination. Built in 1901, this grand dame of French architecture is a wonderful home away from home. There are new and old wings (we lived in the new), a great pool and lobby, excellent food, and a unique bomb shelter which can be toured. It was here in 1972 that Joan Baez wrote  and recorded Where Are You Now My Son? while the bombs were falling. This place is full of history, extraordinary service and comfort. We were delighted to stay here.

     Oh, Vietnam. You are a charmer for sure. With all of the guilt and bad memories we Americans bring to a visit here, I found that the Vietnam I saw was ready to turn the page. The prevailing attitude is that Vietnam wants to explore its full potential, grow in positive ways, and sees the US as a potential partner, a good influence, a big brother. With so much beauty and charm and vitality, Vietnam offers a great visiting experience. And one that left me hoping to return. 

Ubud 2016

     Returning to Ubud for the third time, I was struck by the increase in tourism, the continued construction especially on Bisma Road, and the traffic. Like all of south Bali, Ubud has become a destination of choice for many travelers, and offers a broad range of accommodations, mind/body  and cultural activities. It has also stepped up its game in the area of excellent dining establishments. This latter was a great revelation.

     This time we stayed at Komeneka at Bisma, a five-star property and one of the five sublime Komeneka properties. It has 2016 Certificate of Excellence from Trip Advisor, and a 97% excellent review status. We had a villa with a lanai facing a wonderful view of the rice fields. There was yoga on certain days, tea service every day, a great pool, use of the Komeneka shuttle every hour, a free entry to the Neka Gallery and impeccable service. This is my second stay at a Komeneka property (I stayed at Tanggayuda three years ago) and I felt very much at home here. I do speak a few words of Bahassa (Indonesian) so the staff always wants to talk for a few minutes and this can be an effort after awhile, but they are so sweet I really could not object. Love the Komeneka at Bisma. Highly
recommended.

The Infinity Pool. Komeneka at Bisma

     Bali Bird Walks (http://balibirdwalk.com/index.html) with my friend Sumadi is a "must do" in my book. I have been out with Su four times now, and she always provides an exceptional experience with fun and learning in equal measures, with some good exercise and incredible scenery to boot. The  trip is 2.5 hours and then lunch at Murni's Warung.  Su will provide binos and water if you need them, and a bird list to fill in over lunch. The price of $37. is an amazing value. Su is a very special person and a luminous being. Read the TA reviews. You don't want to miss this.

     I am thrilled to report that I had many close-up sightings of that gorgeous fella, the Javan kingfisher, and as a God-given bonus, a great look at a blue-eared kingfisher, which took my breath away.

Javan kingfisher

               *********************

     One of my favorite food experiences in recent memory happened at Locavore on Jalan Dewi Sita. It was suggested by my Insight Travel Guide to Bali and I booked it a few days in advance. There are 5- and 7- course menus with drink pairings if you want them (we passed). Cosktails are delicious and creative. The food, presentation, explanations, vibe are all superb. Of course all the food is locally sourced, and beautiful to look at. There are numerous little bites, amuse bouche, post-desserts, which are extra added attractions. The

Blue eared kingfisher

veggie options are every bit as tasty as the meat/fish options. Dishes like young bamboo stewed in its own juices with chervil and beurre blanc amaze and enthrall one's tastebuds. They did a "bloody mary" hot/cold soup sorbet thing with intense tomato flavors that was absolutely killa. I think we paid about $120. for two, with cocktails; expensive for Bali but, as I say, a real dining experience.

     As a more informal option, there is now a Locavore to Go across the street from the original restaurant, and it is serving 3-courses for lunch and dinner. We were also knocked out here by a delicious warm vichyssoise with fried leeks and bacon bits, served with "Asian pesto" (lemon basil, young goat cheese and coconut oil) and homemade sourdough bread, followed by tangine of lamb shank, and a tropical bread pudding for dessert. Outrageously good! I think it was about $60. with drinks. Check them out on Facebook.

Warm leek & potato soup with "pesto" and sourdough

Delicious lamb shanks with moroccan rice

     We also ate a dinner at Spice, Chris Salans' (French Laundry) place. This is a gastro bar where Western Food is infused with Indonesian flavors and great results. The atmosphere is very friendly and hip. Sitting at the horse-shoe shaped bar, the chef comes over and talks about your food in a very natural way. Delicious salads, cocktails, and sliders, tuna carpaccio, etc. Lots of people like this place, but you can probably get in without a res.

     For a great dining experience that is closer to Indonesian cooking, try Palau Kelapa (Jalan Raya Sanggignan). They have a lovely garden that you can tour, and pick your own veggies for the meal. Fresh food,  great outdoor seating options, and delicious homemade sorbets and ice-cream (I had durian ice cream, of course).

     The Tamarind Spa at Murni's Houses (Jalan Raya, opposite Pura Dalem, "at the aqueduct, up the ramp") is a beautiful, peaceful and professional spa operation. Cheryl enjoyed a package of treatments where I went in for reflexology/foot massage to ease my aching dogs. Great treatment at a reasonable price, clean and relaxing in a very lovely setting. Recommended.

garden at Tamarind Spa

   The Neka Museum on Raya Campurhan is certainly worth a visit for its collection and lovely grounds, but is perhaps not as compelling as the Museum Puri Lukisan ("Palace of Painting") which has even more bucolic green space, a pond and very nice cafe. Still, the Neka has a fine collection of Ubud style painting and contemporary Balinese work. As stated earlier, admission is free if you stay at any Komeneka property.

    Ubud is a hub of dance, yoga, spas, spiritual growth, shopping, food and drink, and all sorts of accommodations to fit any budget. It has definitely grown, even in the last three years, but is still very inviting due to its small-town vibe and all it offers. I hope you have the opportunity to visit.

  You can view an earlier post on Ubud here:  http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2013-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2014-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=12  and also a post on this blog, spybird,  from 7/14/14

BALI: An Authentic Experience

  

        My recent edition of Eyewitness Travel’s Bali & Lombok travel guide says that for 2014 the number of foreign visitors to Bali reached a record number of 3.6 million. Most of these travelers are concentrated in tourist areas located in the southern third of the island --- Kuta, Denpasar, Seminyak, Ubud, Sanur, Canggu, etc. There has always been a strong inflow from neighboring Australia and former colonial overlord Holland; nowadays, visitors also come from China, Korea, Mediterrean Europe and the United States. The number of tourists becomes overly evident on the roads going south from the airport in Denpasar, Sunset Road and other main arteries in the south. You can also see the crowds in the main tourist towns listed above and most popular sights, and almost all times of the year.

       Bali is paradise to many, but that loaded concept means different things to different people. Of course there is always an element seeking The Perfect Beach with cold beer and good, inexpensive food, and Bali will surely satisfy these folk. Bintang is a delicious beer, and a tasty, filling nasi goreng (fried rice with vegetables, chicken, a fried egg and hot sauce) can be found for $1.50. For the aesthete, there are dance, culture, yoga and spa offerings in Ubud. If retail therapy is your thing, there are superb crafts created by generations of artisans--- silver (Celuk) and gold (Mas) jewelry, woodcarving, painting, textiles and clothing ---in dedicated enclaves around Bali’s southern roads. Rafting, watersports, elephant rides, canyoning, etc. are there for active thrill-seekers, even without going north to volcanoes and the national park. Bali offers great vacation options to just about everyone.

       But what about those who come seeking to learn and even witness first hand what it means to live the Balinese way, those who want to understand the visually distinctive religious community known as the banyar, to have the ubiquitous “offerings” and day to day life explained, to see how families live and share various duties in their compounds? How can we outsiders look “inside?” What about interactions beyond the sale of goods and services?

      

       The answer is it’s all there if you want it, but you need to get off the Tourist Trail. Enter Jack Kennedy and Kadek Gindere and their properties, Honey Tree Villa and Honey Tree Homestay.

       

       First, a few words about Jack. He is my new friend, a neighbor in Maine, and the founding partner of Health Access Sumbawa (www.healthaccesssumbawa.org), an organization that is working to eradicate malaria from three remote villages on the island of Sumbawa (two islands east of Bali). Jack and his partners have just built a clinic in Sili, Sumbawa and are having its nurse trained in microscopy at a WHO-recognized facility this summer.  Jack has been coming to Bali for 20 years and grew up in Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  The story of how Jack met Kadek and his wife Made is worth asking him about, but that must wait now so we can circle back to describe the Honey Tree properties.

       These are two Air BnB properties. I'm not sure Honey Tree Homestay is up yet as it is brand new, but Honey Tree Villa can be viewed here: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1033371

       They are located in the village of Taman, near Sangeh, about 30-40 minutes northwest of Ubud. This is essentially an area of beautiful, wild jungle and rice paddies dotted with several small communities. I lived at Honey Tree Villa for almost a month in March-April, 2016. It is a private, gated property with space to sleep three or four people, one air-con room, a lovely pool and garden, and bicycles. You can arrange to have Made prepare tasty meals at a very reasonable price or prepare your own as I did most of the time. With just a bit of notice Kadek will take you where you want to go including airport transfers (more on this later).

Inviting Pool at Honey Tree Villa

I should say at this juncture that Honey Tree Villa is not a place for everyone. The villa was designed without closed walls and ceilings in places, and is partially open to the elements. The upside of this natural eco concept is you are communing directly with the beauty of the jungle, and can enjoy private but open showers and the like. The downside (for some people, anyway) is that you are living with ants, geckos, beetles, large (harmless) bees, wasps, lizards --- all manner of creatures that creep, fly and crawl ---- and you will notice them, no doubt. Food must be kept in the refrigerator. Jaksy the house dog is sweet and mostly lovable, but sometimes she barks at night, whether you keep her in or out of the house. The rooster next door makes sure you are up by 5:00 am latest. And you are pretty isolated. Taxis from Ubud may not know how to bring you home. There is no shopping very close by except some basic warungs. There are no boules (white people), either --- if you like to hang out with folks from The Western World, you came to the wrong part of Bali. And so far, both Honey Tree properties get only intermittent internet (Jack is working on that).

But with that disclaimer, allow me to tempt you with the prospect of stunning local scenery and relaxation in a cool pool, a peek into local life that is all but unavailable to most tourists, getting to know these sweet and hospitable people, and discovering the Bali that may be rapidly disappearing into the modern world, or at least insulating itself from it. As a bonus, here you can forget about tourist buses, crowds and traffic. And here’s the kicker: all of this comes at a mere fraction of what you will pay “in town.” Food and lodging at Honey Tree cost maybe a third of what I pay at western style accomodations and restaurants in, say, Ubud.

Sounds good, right?

The first thing to do is put your “Tourist Hit List” away and tell Jack or Kadek about your interests so they can guide you. There are some spectacular bike rides that can be arranged so they are  mostly downhill and take you through terraced rice fields, water temples and local villages. Just down the hill from the villa are springs and a public bath where local people get their water and bathe. A bit further down the same road is a small barn-size production facility for fresh tofu and tempe (less than $1.00 bought me six meals worth, and it was delicious). Jack and I got a great workout at a local indoor badminton facility (racquets and rental were a few dollars), and this was maybe ten minutes from the villa by bike. If you want to travel a bit further afield to visit Bali’s largest waterfall, Kadek will suggest a less crowded time and if you’re lucky, he will bring along his sweet son, Vico (be sure to try the breadfruit chips from the warung near the parking area). Of course, trips to Ubud and other tourist centers are easily arranged if you really want them.

Waterfall day trip

If Made is not cooking for you there is an excellent Padang restaurant a few minutes away by car, where you can choose from maybe a dozen options of protein and veg, and have a delicious meal to eat in or take out for $3-$4. For $3., my “usual” was the excellent beef, fried chicken, and tuna, with local greens, rice and sambal.  I could happily eat there three or four times a week. Kadek can also bring in a very good chop cay (stewed veg with a bit of chicken, served with rice) or nasi goreng for a couple of dollars. Or you can stock a few items from western or local “traditional” markets and cook for yourself as I suggest above; everything you need to cook and serve is on site.

My arrival in Bali just happened to coincide with the beginning of the Hindu new year holiday of Nyepi (Day of Silence). The night before, villagers parade ogoh-ogoh (effigies of outrageous, giant evil spirits, made from papier mache) through the town after dusk with torches, and then burn them. There I was, with Kadek and the local kids helping to carry the ogoh-ogoh and joining the fun. This was a completely unique experience and great start to my time in Taman.

Ogoh-ogoh

One of the most interesting moments from my trip was the preparation by Kadek’s family of lawar nyawan, a wonderful but labor intensive Balinese traditional food made from honey comb, green papaya, kefir lime, toasted coconut and spices. I had heard about this dish from my friend Sumadi (of Bali Bird Walks), whose eyes glazed over with rapture as she described it. Over at Kadek’s family compound (just next door to Honey Tree Homestay), his uncle showed us where he keeps his bees, demonstrated how he extracts honeycomb, and then lovingly prepared this delicacy over the next two hours with the able assistance of Made. He also made curried chicken, vegetables and rice. Kadek brought in some cold Bintangs. It was a superb dinner and an amazing learning experience. This special meal cost about $7; Jack threw in the same amount. Two days later Made prepared tasty banana pancakes for breakfast for Jack and me topped with some of the honey Uncle harvested. I think breakfast was $3. 

Honey Comb

Preparing lawar nyawan

I asked help from Kadek in planning a trip to a few of the silver jewelry shops in Celuk, including one called Prapen that Cheryl liked so much on our visit here a few years ago. He was a great help, wonderful company and drove the van with expertise and safety. After shopping he took me to an excellent restaurant specializing in duck and overlooking rice fields, and we had delicious crispy duck for lunch. On the way home, Kadek asked if I wanted to see a good painter’s commune and we stopped by for just a few minutes.

Kadek will help you buy food at western or traditional markets, change money and generally navigate your way around the area and things you want/need to do, and his services come with a pleasant smile and helpful attitude. The price for Kadek’s driving and airport runs is very reasonable and indicated on the Air BnB sites. He is simply awesome, and an invaluable guide to Balinese culture. He answered all of my many questions patiently.

As a bonus, near the end of my stay Kadek was kind enough to invite me to his friend’s wedding reception in a small town about 20 minutes away. The bride and groom were very welcoming. The event was lovely, colorful and a real slice of life.

Balinese wedding

The reader will be interested to know that most of the experiences described above were unplanned and/or suggested by Jack or Kadek. And they are some of my fondest memories. After awhile, I  enjoyed tooling around on my bike, getting smiles or a cheery Pagi! from the adult locals and high fives from the kids, stopping at a warung for a bit of veg, a small bag of sugar or a cold drink, watching ceremonies and offerings.

For me, Bali is singular in its exotic beauty, color, architecture and lifestyle. Its heady mix of Hinduism and animism creates an all-encompassing spirituality that is, without exaggeration, a feast for the senses. And Indonesians are incredibly hospitable and warm, especially outside the main tourist thoroughfares (where, let’s face it, locals can get just a tad jaded). On this trip, my third, I was able to dive deeper for a very satisfying, closer look at Bali, its people and its culture, and I did it with the help of my friends Jack and Kadek. A different and very special kind of vacation, and one I will never forget.

Fort Myers & Sanibel

     Escaping winter for warmth and sunshine in Florida is a longstanding tradition for those of us living in the northeast and Canada. With some of my family re-located to Fort Lauderdale and Boca Raton, I have only lately begun to discover the pleasures of Florida's west coast.

Sanibel is an island reached from Fort Myers by a series of two bridges called "the causeway." It has a population of about 7,000, some beautiful beaches with an astounding array of seashells (Bowman Beach is my favorite) and large swaths of conservation area that are well worth visiting (especially the J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge).

Lots of wildlife on Sanibel. Bird life is abundant, including many species of shore birds, roseate spoonbills, pelicans, terns and the rare mangrove cuckoo (which, I am told, one must be "blessed" to see). Also, alligators, hares, an occasional bobcat and turtles. Manatees and dolphins are easy to spot in the local water.

Dolphin at Bowman Beach

Many people use bicycles on Sanibel because (1) there are excellent scenic bike paths, and (2) traffic coming and going off the causeway can be miserable, especially January and February. Another benefit of bicycles is that they need not pay the $4./hour parking charge at beaches.

For food shopping, I like Jerry's supermarket mid-island, which also has a good, reasonably priced cafe attached and a Love Boat Ice Cream outlet store in the same complex.

Back on the mainland, a few more suggestions for hungry:

1. Trico Seafood Market (1300 Main Steet, Fort Myers) is a great place to buy fresh seafood, especially fresh shrimp. This is not your usual frozen stuff from Asia. This is your Bubba Gum fresh and fantastic shrimp, that comes off the boat for you. Ask the dead-pan lady to boil up a pound with same Bay seasoning, buy a lemon and some cocktail sauce, and eat 'em outside at the picnic table.

Ann C. fries those Trico shrimp to perfection

2. The Prawnbroker is one of the most popular family restaurants in Fort Myers and with good reason. http://www.prawnbroker.com/#_=_ The location on McGregor Blvd. is a hive of delicious and efficient activity, with super-fresh seafood and reasonable prices. Have grouper or king crab or shrimp or anything else from the sea. They serve specials with baked sweet potatoes, veg and home-made bread. The key lime pie is excellent for dessert.

3. Love Boat Ice Cream. Check out the best in homemade ice cream at the 16229 San Carlos Blvd. location, although you can find it at other outlets. www.loveboaticecream.com. The line is out the door after dinner time but well worth the wait. Lots of homey memorabilia on the walls and hungry kids ready for their fave flavors.

Finally, a plug for The Cracker Box at 16910 McGregor, a restaurant and bar that is aptly named. This is Old Florida, old Country/Western music, an evening from another time. I can recommend the burgers and the grouper, and if you have an open mind and are not in a hurry, you will enjoy a fun evening. Jody sings very well and will belt out a few tunes after her duties as owner/waitress let up.

Jody about to kick off "Satin Sheets"

Healthy travel chewing pink tablets

       Cheryl sent me this article from The New York Times written by Jane Brody, which I commend to all travelers.

http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2016/02/22/staying-healthy-while-traveling-the-globe/?smid=nytcore-ipad-share&smprod=nytcore-ipad

The major take-away for me is the use of Pepto-Bismol (or equivalent) before meals as an effective prophylactic measure against traveler's diarrhea or gastrointestinal distress. Hard to argue with the studies and Brody's own success with this little secret. Certainly worth a try!

Paris, Lyon and Wine & Truffle Tour - 2016

     Mediterranean Europe in the winter has a lot to recommend it. Just about everything --- flights, places to stay, restaurants, sights --- is cheaper and more available. There are fewer tourists and warmer welcomes. The temperatures are generally five degrees or so toastier than our city of Boston. And let's face it: not everyone is looking for beach and rum drinks. For those who would consider an alternative winter vacation with fabulous food, culture, art and world class architecture, it's well worth a trip across the pond for a week to check out a great European city.

About mid-January of 2016 we headed out for 2 days in Paris, 3 days in Lyon, and 3 days in Malaucene, a town in northern Provence, close to Avignon. The time in Provence and a major impetus for this trip was a scheduled Wine and Truffle Tour through our friends Philip and Jude Reddaway and their www.rhonewineholidays.com. More about this later.

Paris

Perhaps no other city looms so large in our collective travel imagination. "We'll always have Paris" Syndrome comes easily to anyone lucky enough to visit and then return to The City of Light. Fond memories and special moments abide here. For most people I know, being in Paris is like walking around in a movie. In fact, my own advice to return travelers who have crossed off their Top Sights List is to search out an interesting neighborhood and do exactly that --- just walk around and explore.

Anyway, for this trip we stayed at The Molitor, way out there in the 16th Arrondissement http://www.mgallery.com/gb/hotel-7326-hotel-molitor-paris-mgallery-collection/index.shtml. The original structure was built in 1929 and existed as a prime swimming destination for Paris party people in the '30s. It was closed in 1989, fell into disrepair, and became an underground gathering place for artists and "happenings." It has been completely transformed in the last three years, and has re-opened with very comfortable, modern rooms, an all-weather outdoor pool, and a hip, artsy vibe.

Entry wall at the Molitor

Graffiti Rolls Royce inside the Molitor

Rooms are not cheap (in the $300. range), but include a tasty buffet breakfast, use of two pools, and a very comfortable room with a great bed. The Metro is about 15 minutes' walk from the residential neighborhood. And there are two wonderful museum options; check out the Musee Mormattan Monet (wonderful impressionist works in a lovely old house), or the brand new Louis Vuitton Museum on Avenue Mahatma Gandhi (this was closed during our visit).

The Molitor rocks. If it was good enough for Johnny Weissmuller, it's good enough for you.

Our best meal in Paris this trip was at Spring in the 1st Arrondissement. It was suggested by our concierge "even though the chef is American." The 88 Euro pre fixe is well worth the money for the imaginative food and great service. The Zagat review looks like this:

"Enthralled" eaters hail the "incredible" New French offerings of native Chicagoan Daniel Rose at his "don't-miss" table in Les Halles, "one of the hottest reservations in town", where the "open kitchen provides entertainment" to accompany the "beautifully harmonized" multicourse menus (no à la carte); the townhouse setting with exposed-brick walls is "gorgeous", service is "charming and relaxed" and the wine selection "brilliant" (oenophiles: check out the separate basement wine bar), so it's "worth every shekel" for an "experience that you won't soon forget."

Our menu included hot and cold oysters, a scallop dish with fried sweetbreads and creamy spuds, a miniature "king cake," and other treats. There is not a lot of choice, mind you. They cook dinner for you from their own menu and it's different every night, but superb. Highly recommended and excellent value.

Oysters hot (with lemon creme au gratin) and cold (with iced sea weed) at Spring

Of course we could not return to Paris without passing by Laduree, world headquarters for the most awesome double-decker macarons in this big, wide world. The luxury baker and sweet house was established in 1862 at the Rue Royal address --- this is where you want to go --- and still does a thriving business. In fact, satellite operations now exist in places like Harrod's in London and New York City. If you have time to wait on line, the rococo/nouveau salon is one of the best places in town (yes, I know Angelina's is also epic!) to linger over a cuppa and a macaron. The pistachio and vanilla are classic.

Lyon

     From Paris to Lyon is a just few hours by TGV. Lyon is the third largest city and second largest metropolitan area in France, with a population of about 2.1 million. It is known as the Belly of France because of it's gastronomic emphasis and history, and probably because Paul Bocuse hails from this area.  Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas, Lyon is recognized by UNESCO and shaped by its two rivers, the Rhone and Saone. 

We stayed at The Villa Florentine, a Five Star Relais & Chateau property up on the hill above Vieux Lyon. You need to climb a lot of stairs to get up and down to Old Town, or take a long way down, so this is not for everyone. It does have a great view, and it was built in 1700s as a chapel. There are still frescoes in the entrance downstairs. Prices are steep, roughly 350 Euros with a full breakfast. Our bedroom had a little porch with a view on the old quarter, and a fine and spacious bathroom. It also had something I have never seen: a light under the bed that follows you around the room at night to light your way, and turns off when you put your feet up into bed! I spoke to the manager about it, and he explained it was a new feature. Almost creepy. Based on Trip Advisor reviews, I believe this is one of the best luxury choices in Lyon. It does have a fine ambiance.

Vieux Lyon is really the touristy part of town --- kept old in appearance, lots of restaurants and shops to buy treats and gifts (but no tacky souvenirs, thankfully). There are definitely some good places to eat and a wine bar worth a visit (BMD, on Rue Trois Maries).  We had dinners at Aux 3 Maries (on Rue Trois Maries), Bistro Retrouvaille and our favorite, Aux 24 Colonnes  http://www.aux-24-colonnes.fr. 

Aux 24 Colonnes is all homemade, locally sourced food, with respect for traditional Lyonnaise favorites and prepared under the loving attention of my man, Eric Violet. Eric bought us a bottle of wine and took special care of us after he had to reschedule our reservation. He served a perfect minced duck casserole with clementine sauce that was unforgettable for 13 Euros. The sausage with Lyonnaise potatoes was the perfect hearty treat for a winter's night with a glass of red Cotes du Rhone.

Eric's killer homemade sausage and Lyonnaise potatoes

This appetizer salad at Retrovaille features delicious smoked salmon, a thick slice of pate, and a prawn

Minced duck with clementine sauce, Aux 24 Colonnes

Eric Violet and me

A couple of touring notes for Lyon. We spent several hours on a private food tour with Localers (booking@localers.com) and it was both educational and fun. Besides, we needed to walk off at least part of a meal. Localers has a branch in Paris, too. They are recommended by international travel press, give good value, and are painless to work with. Camille, our guide, was a history buff, which brought color and interesting backstory to her explanations. The cost is 150 E per person, and there are three tastings, some in the famous Bocuse Food Hall, included in the price.

Savory macarons, including the superb Foie Gras

Bocuse mural oustide his Hall

After the Gallic Wars of Julius Caesar, at a time when Lyon was known as Lugdunum, the Roman amphitheater was constructed at the top of Fourviere Hill. One of the oldest Roman sites in France, the site and its related museum are open and make a wonderful destination for the visitor. Take the funicular up for a few Euros, and combine a visit here with some time at the sumptuous Basilique Notre Dame of Fourviere. 

The amphitheater

Decorative Sculpture from the museum

Astrolgical Clock from 14th Century at St. Jean's Cathedral

To round out your visit to Lyon, try the striking Museum of the Confluences (86 Quai Perrache), a refreshing change up from what museums usually are and show. This one has exhibits about art and media, machinery as art, the creation of the world, exhibition rooms of oddities, all on a large and dramatic scale. Visit using the trolley, but plan your trip with enough travel time to return. Taxis cannot stop everywhere in Lyon, and so it's hard to hail them on the street. This location, a bit out of the way,  is where the two rivers of Lyon meet.

1970 Citroen, Museum of Confluences

Provence: Wine and Truffle Tour

The impetus for our trip to France this time came in the form of an enticing e-mail from our friend Philip Reddaway, who, with his lovely wife Jude, run Rhone Wine Holidays (www.rhonewineholidays.com). They live in a converted convent called La Madelene in Malaucene, northern Provence, and from there they conduct brilliant wine tours to mostly Chateauneuf vineyards. Philip invited past guests to come during "truffle season" for a three-day "wine and truffle" tour that included, among other things,  meeting a seasoned truffle hunter and going out to forage with his dog. This was an opportunity that we could not pass up, and it turned out to be even more amazing than we hoped. Five of us were on the bus (or "in the van"). Here is a broad-brush re-cap of the tour:
   
     Wednesday: Arrival mid afternoon. Drinks and dinner with fine Rhone wines at La Madelene.

      Thursday: After breakfast, we drove to the Luberon hills to meet Nicholas, the truffle hunter,and  his dog, Junior. No mere amateur, Nicholas has a deep passion for truffles, and has devoted decades to the culture, farming, and preparation of the fungi. He provided a slide show presentation before we went out over his property to hunt for (and find!) some of these black diamonds. Then Nicholas brought us back to his kitchen for a champagne lunch that included a cooking demonstration and the best eggs I have ever eaten --- laced with lots of truffles, of course.

Nicholas rewards Junior for a find

The killer truffle eggs, with truffle butter

After lunch, we retraced our steps back to the appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape to visit two wonderful vineyards ---Bois de Boursan and Domaine de la Solitude.  Philip knows the winemakers well, and actually owns a small share of Solitude, so we were treated well and looked after, with wonderful tastings of fine bottles. That evening we dined at Fleur Bleu, an excellent restaurant and gite in Crestet owned and operated by a Dutch couple. Philip arranged a wonderful truffle meal, which included a stunning ravioli with poached egg (inside!) and truffled bernaise sauce. Oh my god! Philip provided top shelf bottles of Chateneuf from his cellar.

Bois de Boursan, the Versino family

Freeform ravioli with inner poached egg, Bernaise truffle sauce

     On Friday: Breakfast at La Madelene, followed by visits to Chateau St. Cosme, Domaine Saint Amant with a lovely view from its hilltop, and a stop at the Carpentras truffle market. The truffle market is part of the larger weekly traveling market during the truffle season. Best quality truffles were being sold at 850 Euros per kilo (2.2 pounds). Truffle yields are way down this year due to a very dry summer, but apparently Spain has stepped in to supplement local supplies in many cases, so the price has remained stable. 

Truffle market in Carpentras

At lunch time, we visited olive oil farmer, creative chef and major character Bernard Bijaoui at his farm for a tasting of different olive oils followed by lunch at his home. Bernard is one of the most entertaining people I have met, an outsized personality with tremendous humor, joy and a tendency to burst into song. He prepared a superb Tunisian-style lunch with a show-stopping starter of handed-smashed truffle potatoes with his own olive oil, butter and cream. This was truly one of the best dishes I have ever tasted. 

Bernard's olive oil label

Wonderful Bernard, serving his guests

Bernard's truffled potatoes --- one of the 5 most delicious things I've ever eaten!

We ended Friday with a visit to one of the new breed of winemakers, a young maverick who is currently working out of a rented garage space, but garnering 94 point scores from Robert Parker. This is Phillippe Gimel of Saint Jean du Barroux --- a man with incredible passion, savvy use of social media, and an ability to talk about wine to anyone who will listen (for however long they will listen!). He is awesome, and promises to be a giant in Chateauneuf. Finally, back to a delicious last meal at La Madelene. 

Dynamic, organic and a bit manic -- Phillippe Gamil

Cheese course at La Madelene

On Saturday, there was an early visit to another market or winery, but we had to leave for our return to Paris CDG.

With this, our second tour with Philip and Jude, I can give them my highest props and recommendation. Their tours are luxurious without a hint of pretense. There are always cultural dimensions and a bit of education involved. The food and drink are absolutely first class, and La Madelene is very comfortable and homey in the best sense. These folks are pros, and make it look easy. Do yourself a favor and book a wine tour with them.

Thanks for reading my blog! Feel free to contact me or comment for more info.