It was our first vacation away since the pandemic came down in March of 2020. Now, two years later, we were inclined to stay in the U.S., and hatched a plan to visit to visit southern Arizona, as far south as the border, to do some birding with Arizona Birding Tours and its main man, Felipe Guerero, https://www.arizonabirdingtours.com . We also wanted to see my nephew James, who lives near Phoenix, and stay a few days in Tuscon.
So, big picture, we flew Boston to Phoenix (direct flight, reasonable cost), rented a car, spent one night in Phoenix, 3 nights in Nogales, and 3 nights in Tuscon before driving back to Phoenix and flying home in the afternoon. Easy-peasy!
In Phoenix we stayed at FOUND:RE Phoenix Hotel at 1100 N. Central Ave. https://www.foundrehotels.com. Found:RE is kind of hip and has some interesting pop art decorating in the lobby. Its the rooms are thoughtfully laid out. But the staff is calling it in, and it feels kind of industrial.
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| FOUND:RE PHOENIX Lobby |
We had a terrific meal and beer experience at the college hangout Wilderness a few blocks away. Outdoor service and amazing salads and burgers. For a bev, try the "Puffy" -- a "fruited milkshake sour." Delicious.
The Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix https://dbg.org is lovely, and had a Chilhuly glass sculpture exhibit set in the desert that was pretty spectacular:
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| Chilhuly in the Desert |
Driving south a few hours, we stayed with Nisa and Jeff at Hacienda Corona de Guevavi https://www.haciendacorona.com, a Bed & Breakfast in Nogales, Santa Cruz County. This is beautiful and historic space, where John Wayne and his family spent summers. We stayed in an enormous room with huge fireplace and bathroom with a whirlpool tub. At sunset there was wine and beer and nibbles. Nisa and Jeff are interesting and wonderful people. They get highest marks for hospitality and attitude. We were off birding early every morning, so they supplied delicious fresh fruit and baked good with coffee to take away. Highly recommended.
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| Sunset from the Hacienda |
Birding with Felipe was excellent. He is a superb guide and extremely intelligent, especially in matters relating to ecology, birding, equipment, geography and earth science. Apparently this part of southern Arizona is a reknown birding hotspot in the U.S. We spent half-days at Patagonia State Park, Coronado National Forest, San Raphael Grasslands, Harshaw Creek Road, and a local hummingbird area with feeders, etc. He made sure to vary the locations and geography to show us more species. He also gave me some great birding tips and suggestions. We saw 51 new species, although somehow we missed the common roadrunner. Next time!
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| Yellow-eyed vireo, through Felipe's binos |
Since we had a car and time to ourselves during the afternoons, we explored Tubac (good for shopping, but arrive by 3 pm because it shuts down early). Another afternoon, we parked the car in a $5. lot and walked over the border to La Roca, a very good (but not excellent) Mexican restaurant on the Mexican side of this "two-country" town. https://www.larocarestaurant.com . La Roca is real old school with waiters in tuxedos and great ambiance. The experience of walking over the border is interesting, but there is really not much to see. The town has little to recommend itself, except cheap dental services. Glad we did this in daylight.
One of our unplanned outings, to Kartchner Caverns State Park, was an excellent addition to the trip, thanks to our friend Jane. Fascinating tour and guides, great for kids and families. Reserve in advance or take your chances.
We headed north to Tuscon, and stayed for our last three days at Adobe Rose Inn. The Inn gets excellent reviews on Trip Advisor and guests gush about its perfect location and heavenly breakfast. https://www.adoberoseinn.com/ . The breakfasts are, in fact, spectacular --- three courses with enormous portions and inside/outside seating. Thousands of calories. The location is also really terrific for exploring. The inn-keeper is very responsive (we had a water issue in our shower) and a really nice person. BUT "know before you go:" (1) our Santa Catalina Suite was small, tired, and dusty. It was not worth $300./night. as it needed a thorough cleaning. And (2) the check-in process on arrival is a bit off-putting and time-consuming. You have to find parking, go to the front of the inn to get an envelope with instructions, go back out and move your car to an area adjacent to your digs, then take your instructions and luggage and navigate through the two locked doors to find your room.
One of our best outings was cocktails and dinner at the nearby Arizona Inn, the grande dame of Tuscon hotels and very upscale. Too expensive to stay, but great for a meal.
While visiting with my awesome nephew James and his girlfriend JJ, we visited the oldest mission in the U.S, at San Xavier del Blac. Quite beautiful inside and out. We also tried local Mex food at Boca Tacos Y Tequila where a James Beard finalist is producing tacos, elote (roasted corn) and other goodies for the masses. https://bocatacos.com . This on North 4th Street where the local characters and college kids are wild in the streets (I mean literally). Well, the margaritas were good, and the food was fine, but Cheryl and I are a bit jaded, I think. And our waitperson was tripping, or something. I would choose a different spot next time.
Highly recommended is Saguaro National Park for seeing the cacti and hiking in the desert environment. We have a lifetime senior national park parking pass, and these come in very handy. We made friends with a volunteer who was very knowledgeable and fun to talk with. We hiked the Loma Verde Trail for 1.5 hours. It was great fun, but we did not bring sufficient water. Bring twice what you think you may need. It is very hot and dehydration sneaks up on you!
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| "Broccoli" Cactus -- double headed |
Honorable mention: We loved Mexican Shaved Ice or raspados. These really help beat the heat! Cheryl found these as Rincon Valley Farmers & Artisans Market
Also, for those of us from New England, Dutch Brothers Coffee is a real find, better than Starbucks for sure.
Enjoy southern Arizona in early spring for lovely weather and a real change scenery!
