MIDCOAST MAINE / Summer & Fall, 2020

          It is indisputable that the Covid-19 Pandemic affected people everywhere, all around the world. Local travel around New England was no exception, and various states created legal fences and impediments --- some more impermeable than others --- to deal with the rampant spread of the virus. Maine was especially pro-active, with Governor Mills promulgating strict regulations relative to travel, isolating and testing. Some of these were enforced by inn-keepers and hotels. 

        The results of Maine's hard-nosed approach were interesting to see. For one thing, there was no traffic this year. None, even on weekends. For another, Maine's own population did remarkably well containing Covid-19, with a few notable exceptions (one involving a flying preacher and large wedding party up north). Still another result was that many businesses found ways to offer open air food and entertainment options, and these were well-supported and appreciated by locals and "folks from away" alike. For example, the magnificent Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens did great guns this summer, with limited entry numbers, social distancing, and masking. Farmers'  markets were ever-popular, as were all the "eat-in-the-rough" lobster and oyster establishments. There were tourists, but not nearly as many of them. 

       In the midst of the horrible and deadly pandemic, summer life in mid-coast Maine was a bit slower and more isolated. For those who were here, there was a healthy sense of caution and control, but there was also a unhurried vibe that married well with the first mellow summer of the 23 I've spent in midcoast Maine. 

      Our band 32 North may be an appropriate barometer for the experience of the 2020 season. We played 10 public gigs compared to 23 the year before. But all of the events had Covid protocols, all were outdoors, and all were well attended but not crowded. Masks were on when we were off the bandstand. Gary ate his band snack in his car. But it worked out fine, and it was still pleasant. 

     Through all of these challenges, we still need to eat and drink, don't we? 

     So this post brings a few new recommendations and second endorsements.

Here is my post about Delano's Seafood Shack from last year:

1. Delano's Seafood Shack. 100 Atlantic Highway, Waldoboro, ME. https://lcnme.com/business/delano-seafood-shack-opens-in-waldoboro/ I had low expectations for this new seafood shack, but tasting is believing. It sits next door to Delano's Seafood, a retail establishment with a good reputation for fresh local seafood. If you love the stuff like I do, the Shack does a terrific job with fried haddock and scallop baskets. "Good count, good quality," as my buddy Irving used to say. And reasonable prices. There's also soft-serve ice cream on site.

Delano's is even better now than it was before. The "shack" used for take-out ordering has expanded its repertoire with more sandwiches, burgers, etc. Its fried seafood is excellent and oh-so-fresh. The fried haddock basket, which is the golden metric in my world, is the second best I've had in the area (second only to the goddess Bet, of Bet's Fishfry in Boothbay). Management tells me they will be open year round.

The ice-cream shack is ready to rock, but has been held up by some administrative approval and Covid. Look for it in 2021.

INSIDE the fish market on the same property, super-fresh seafood is available at retail prices that are about 40% cheaper than what we pay in Boston. The "sushi grade" tuna at about $11./lb is fantastic, as is the Maine salmon and crabmeat. In the frozen section, you can often buy "heat and eat" meals like scallops and crabmeat with Ritz crackers and butter for $12. Overall, Delano's offers great value and excellent quality. Really nice folks, too.

On Wednesday evenings during the summer, the owner and his buddies bring their pristine antique cars and trucks to the big parking lot to show off. There is a large picnic area with tables, trees and a brook. It's all good fun.

Our friend Jennifer turned us onto The Hoot in Northport, Maine https://www.thehootnorthport.com     The Hoot represents the best kind of "farm to table" experience, serving delicious and imaginative food without pretense and with reasonable prices. Come to The Hoot for brunch and dinner, and experience Mexican Sweet Potato Hash, or Asian Char Sui Pork Omelet, or incredible Turkish food on one of its ethnic nights. There is outdoor seating, or indoor seating that is comfortably ventilated. This is absolutely one of the best all around eating experiences I've had in Maine. Unfortunately, the word is out, and waiting to get a table is common (but worth it). Thanks, Jennifer!

Finally, a pizzeria. Yes, I know pizza is pretty ubiquitous and generally mediocre in most places. I had three uncles in the New York pizza business growing up. One of them was a pretty major player. So I think I know my pizza (doesn't everyone?). But Oysterhead Pizza in Damariscotta https://www.oysterheadpizzaco.com does a very good job.  They use fresh ingredients, brick ovens and high quality meats to create very tasty pizzas, and also delicious sides. We suggest a large pizza with sausage, carmelized onions or shallots, and spicy vinegar peppers. Their "magic beans" (stringbeans) are also very good, as are their s'mores for dessert. 

We have had minor issues with getting orders just right, and the pizza dough is just a bit thicker than I'd like, but this is excellent pizza and very convenient. 

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A few more suggestions, these for going outdoors:

RIVERBROOK PRESERVE, WALDOBORO https://www.midcoastconservancy.org  A great place to hike with lots of varied terrain, an abandoned mill and river. Very small parking lot, off 220.

BEECH HILL PRESERVE, ROCKPORT https://www.mainetrailfinder.com/trails/trail/beech-hill-preserve Lovely, and fairly easy walk up a hill to the site of an old homestead. Wild blueberry bushes. Since the top of the hill is "bald," there are good vistas and bird-watching.

I know many friends were discouraged from visiting Maine this season for a number of reasons related to Covid and restrictions on the state's tourism. I am sorry to hear this. Hopefully there will be reasons to open the state more next year. In the meantime, I am happy to answer any questions I can. 

EGYPT and TRAVEL DURING COVID-19 / 2020

       We began planning this "bucket list" adventure during the summer of 2019 --- almost three weeks in the Middle East to visit the Pharonic jewels of Egypt including Luxor and Abu Simbel, and then over to Jordan for Petra and two days in the desert. It was to be our longest trip ever. And it was #1 on Cheryl's "must visit" life list.

       By the time we flipped our calendars into March, our departure date, March 6, was fast approaching. The Coronavirus had hit China, a cruise ship in Japan and a few other contained areas. We actively debated the wisdom of going on our trip for days. We had spent a lot of time and energy planning. We were going to lose a ton of money if we cancelled, but that wasn't the main motivator. The truth is, we never saw the risks to be as grave as they really were, and we didn't see the virus spreading with the pace and effect it ultimately exhibited. Maybe no one saw these things at that point.

Anyway, on March 6 we flew British Air through London into Cairo.  There was a sizable group from a local girls' high school on our London plane, all headed to South Africa. We were pretty upbeat. On arrival in Egypt we had our temperatures taken and had to submit answers to a short questionnaire. No problem.

Our tour company was Nubia Tours. The head of the company got his training and connections through Abercrombie & Kent, and came very highly recommended from our Travel Goddess (who retired suddenly on January 1). We were traveling alone. It was just Cheryl and me, a driver and a guide who was also an Egyptologist. That part --- the flexibility, the social distancing, the no-large-group logistics -- those features were critical now.

We spent the first few days at The Kepinkski Nile Hotel, situated on the Nile among other, fancier and more upscale properties such as the Intercontinental and The Ritz Carlton. We have no complaints about the Kempinski. The hotel felt clean and cozy; the buffet breakfast was very good also. However, after the few days in Egypt, we decided to stop going to breakfast and instead opted for coffee and Clif Bars in our room.

Unfortunately, it's not at all easy to even go for a walk in downtown Cairo. No one pays attention to lights and there are few to begin with. The Egyptian taxis, tuk-tuks and mini-buses used by the locals for transport are insane; they stop and drive in unpredictable ways. We saw at least several accidents. This is not the place to go out for an evening stroll, unfortunately.

Lighting store in the Old Islamic Quarter, Cairo

The first few days of touring included a trip to the Old Islamic Quarter and the Khan El Khalili Bazaar, one of the oldest in the Middle East, dating back to the 14th century. The bazaar is a lot of fun for shopping, but the touts can be a bit aggressive. Fortunately, we kept to better quality establishments and our local guide was quite knowledgeable. Merchants brought out tea, coffee or Coke as part of "Egyptian Hospitality." A few days later came back to have an early dinner at the wonderful old Neguib Mahfouz Restaurant, currently run by the Oberoi group and located in the heart of the bazaar. The food is classic Arabian, with the best falafel, lamb kafka, eggplant, kebbe -- all that good stuff, and all top quality.

The highlight of our time in Cairo was visiting the Sphinx and pyramids in Giza, Saqqara, and Dahshour. At Saqqara, a field of royal tombs about 3.5 km long, the Bent and Step Pyramid are the earliest of all antiquities, from 2300 B.C. and they are remarkably well-preserved. At Giza, the "Great Pyramids" are the only present-day survivors of the Seven Wonders of the World, We also visited a "solar" boat beside the Great Pyramid of Cheops -- an entire boat reconstructed after its discovery in 1954, buried next to the king for his use in the afterlife.

The mysterious Sphinx

No trip to Cairo would be complete without a trip to The National Museum, which includes The Treasure Room associated with King Tut (Tutenkhamun). It is amazing and sumptuous, a must see experience. The gold mask found on the boy king by Howard Carter in 1925 is iconic and one of the best known works of art in the world. It dates from 1323 B.C. No photos are allowed in the Treasure Room.

https://images.app.goo.gl/nnyRSNc3XdtgxvG57

The last day in Cairo we toured Coptic Cairo and St. Sergius, which is considered to be a resting place of the Holy Family, who stayed  there during their flight to Egypt 2000 years ago.

Stain glass windows and wood carving details at St. Sergius

The next part of our trip flew us down to Aswan, first to see the romantic and majestic Philae Temple by motorboat, on the island of Agika. It was saved from flooding by world heritage organizations and moved to its current location on Agika.

We were honored to stay at The Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan, a Sofitel property that boasts an incredible view and lots of history. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Cataract_Hotel. The hotel was built in 1902 and a modern tower was built in 1961. Winston Churchill stayed here for a time, and Agatha Christie wrote parts of Death on the Nile here. We decided to have a drink at the lovely bar on the veranda, maybe the most expensive martinis ever (I think $25. per). The Old Cataract is a jewel, steeped in beauty and history, and well worth the effort and price to stay there.

The 1902 Dining Room at The Cataract

While in Aswan we took a short regional flight and then rode by van to the small fishing town Abu Simbel to visit two spectacular temples to Ramses II. Both temples are fronted by colossal seated figures up to 20 meters high. With the rising waters of Lake Nasser threatening the temples, an effort led by UNESCO deconstructed the temples block by block and reassembled them with a higher vantage point on the hillside.

One of two temples to Ranses II with enormous figures at entrance

Leaving Abu Simbel a sandstorm kicked up, making our return to The Cataract impossible. The police instructed all vehicles to turn around and stay in Abu Simbel. We made arrangements in a hotel and stayed the night with no problem. The sandstorm was a first for me, and looked a lot like a snow storm. I noticed that car and van owners used sponges and rags to put soap on their vehicles to protect them from "sandblasting." The next morning we were able to leave early, and made a stop at a Bedouin camp for some delicious Turkish coffee.

We traveled from Aswan by van into Luxor, which is a tourist hot spot because of The Valley of The Kings and Queens. On our way we visited Kom Ombo, the Ptolemaic Temple dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek and The Falcon-headed Horus, god of the morning sun.

The Valley of the Kings and Queens is essentially a vast City of the Dead on the west bank of the Nile where ornate and sumptuous tombs were built into the rock. Much of the time large tourist sleeper barges are used to bring people to the area. During our visit one of those barges was the site of a Coronavirus outbreak, the first serious situation of its kind in Egypt. The boat was quarantined. We were so grateful not to have included a boat-trip as part of our itinerary. It was a key move. Honestly, we have never been "cruise people," and based on recent history, I've sworn them off for the foreseeable future.

Among the major sights in the Valley of the Kings and Queens is the stunning Tomb of Nefretari. Long praised as the most beautifully-decorated of all the tombs on the West Bank of Luxor, this masterpiece of Egyptian art was restored by the Egyptian Antiquities Authority and the Getty Conservation institute in the USA. Specialists worked for 6 years to clean the paintings and re-affix them to the plaster walls from where they had been flaking, and today it is hardly conceivable that such vibrant colors have actually not been retouched since they were first laid thousands of years ago. The tomb is currently opened for limited number of visitors based on the first come, first get and an extra charge as well. It is undoubtedly worth it, however, since Nefretari's Tomb is superb and perhaps my favorite of all sights. It is often referred to as "the Sistine Chapel of Egyptian Art."

Two photos from Queen Nefretari's tomb

We stayed at the Hilton Hotel in Luxor, which was not a stand-out experience, but certainly fine for our purposes.

While we did not stay on a barge on the Nile, we did take a lunch trip aboard the classic Egyptian sailing vessel, a felucca. The crew served us an enormous and very tasty spread of hot and cold mezze while we slowly cruised the river.

Our guide and expert Egytologist Hassan digs in to lunch on the felucca

The next day we visited the Ptolemaic Temple of Goddess Hathor in Dendera. This wonderfully preserved temple complex is a rare sight to behold, complete with a massive stone roof, dark chambers, underground passages and towering columns inscribed with hieroglyphs. The main Temple of Hathor is almost intact. Hathor was the goddess or pleasure and of love, usually represented as a cow, or a woman with a cow’s head. She was the beneficent deity of maternal and family love, of beauty and light; the Greeks associated her with Aphrodite.

Interior of the Goddess Hathor in Dendera

Our final stop was Abydos. Abydos stands apart from other temples in Egypt as it was in fact the center of a holy city dedicated to Osiris, King of the Underworld. Abydos was the burial- place for pre-dynastic kings and Pharaohs dating back to the fourth millennium BC. The walls are covered with reliefs, some of the most beautiful in all Egyptian Art.

On March 15, we learned that the country of Jordan was closing its borders as a protective measure. The U.S. also began to restrict access, and Egypt was decreasing air service. Our tour company said it could not support the Jordan portion of our trip and arranged to refund its cost. We made some hasty arrangements for air travel back to Boston via Heathrow, and flew to Cairo on March 16 to begin the homeward journey. 

The flights home were uneventful and on time. As we approached Boston, the British Air crew distributed a questionnaire to fill out. There was a "health screening" when we deplaned, where we handed in our forms and random people had their temperature taken. It went very smoothly. The whole process from plane to taxicab took one hour.

Man, it was good to be home.

Truly our trip to Egypt was fraught with issues and worries over the world-wide virus, and we had to roll with the punches. But it is for certain that the Egyptian antiquities, temples and tombs were the most impressive sight this traveler has ever seen. The are incomparable in size, ingenuity and even beauty. I hope you get to see them. But wait awhile.

CHIAPAS and TULUM, MEXICO - 2020

     We became interested in Chiapas, the southern-most area of Mexico, after visiting the Museum of Anthroplogy in Mexico City, and hearing about the wonders of Palenque. Palenque is one of the best preserved remnants of Mayan civilization, and together with Yaxchilan and Bonampak, make up a hat trick of Mayan archeological wonders in this area. There is also a sweet, fairly urbane town in the hills called San Cristobal de las Casas. Turns out our friend Jennifer did a tour of Chiapas with a Mexican woman named Marina Aguilar and raved about it. So that was the impetus.We signed up with Marina in Mexico http://marinainmexico.com for her signature tour of Chiapas, in April, I believe, for January 2020.

As a warm-up to our return to Mexico, it was irresistible to book a bit of beach time near Cancun before meeting up with our tour. We decided to stay outside of the new resorts south of Tulum (my, has this area changed!), and booked three days at Mukan https://mukan.com, an ecolodge located in the Sian Ka'an Biosphere (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) about 37 km south of Tulum.

Mukan sits on a perfect white sand beach, and across the road, on its backside are freshwater mangroves where birds, crocs and other wildlife are plenty. There are free bicycles, free yoga (most of the time), good swimming (most of the time), excellent food and drink (full or half board). We were upgraded from the main building to the deluxe beach villa (a $900 value on paper), and all of our cocktails, including a mezcal tasting, were free for us. So management generously comped us for about $1000. worth of value. Management and staff were all very kind and helpful. This was a lovely, privileged experience. The only real problems with Mukan are the cost of getting to and from the resort (we suggest a taxi), and the fact that the water can be too rough for real swimming, as it was for our stay.  There were no bug issues or mosquitoes.

View from our beach villa at Mukan

Empty beach at Mukan looking north

Leaving Mukan by taxi, our driver consented to make a stop at Uxmal, the Maya city of the classical period perched on the ocean in Tulum. We did a quick pass through. It was quite warm and crowded there, but worth the extension nonetheless.

Uxmal

We had an overnight at Cancun close to the airport before flights to Mexico City and then Villahermosa, Tabasco, where our tour started. Our travel agent suggested the JW Marriott in Cancun, and it was excellent. I'm not usually a chain hotel kind of guy, but the Marriott was new, modern, clean, convenient and had really fine amenities. We had drinks and a tasty dinner at the hotel, and heard the best mariachi band ever (the shy accordion player was a superstar!).

My sweetheart enjoys una canción romántica

Onward to Villahermosa, where we met Marina and our group for a welcome dinner and the start of our tour. The Chiapas and Its Magic Tour is given by Marina once yearly. It is said to be her signature tour. It is nine days and eight nights, and travels by large van. I think the max number of people is 14 or 16. About half of one's meals are included in the price of the tour.

The highlights below are taken from Marina's website, and she kept to her promise by delivering on all the particulars:

HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS TRIP

• Visiting four archaeological sites with incomparable beauty: La Venta, Palenque, Bonampak and Yaxchilán
• Enjoying the festivals in honor of St. Sebastian and St. Ildefonso in three indigenous villages: Zinacantán, Tenejapa, and San Juan Chamula
• Visiting interesting museums specializing in textiles, traditional medicine, archaeology and history
• Staying in a beautiful colonial city for four days: San Cristóbal de las Casas
• Sharing with a local family at the Lacandon Jungle and being part of their daily lives
• Learning about different aspects of the Maya’s lives in their own context, especially during the festivals. You will enjoy every minute of this time spent with their living culture
• Visiting the Sumidero Canyon and being part of the Parachicos Festival at Chiapa de Corzo

Marina is an amazing person. She's unfailingly kind and polite, and seems to know many interesting people personally. Perhaps this is how she succeeds in delivering so much value -- she allows her tour entry into places most people cannot go. Besides this, she has her doctorate in Mayan archeology and ethnohistory. Her talks and descriptions are fact-filled but never stuffy. Above all, Marina is...soulful. It's impossible to miss; she radiates it.

The three archeological highlights --- Palenque, Bonampak and Yaxchilan are alone worth the price of admission. We were wowed and quieted by the remaining buildings, stelas and "ball courts." Palenque especially is worth one's leisurely exploration, and has its own excellent museum.

Inscriptions Temple, Palenque

Mayan god, from wall decoration

But beyond these sites, we were able to attend three festivals of indigenous people, and the festival in Zinacantlan was absolutely amazing. We were not allowed to take photos inside the church, but trust me --- there were chickens sacrificed, alcoholic posh, lots of incense and candles, droning bands of musicians, bright local festivewear, and Coca-Cola (to burp up evil inside you!). Below is a photo from a similar festival San Juan Chamula, where we could take photos. And below that, Don Benito prepares for a Mayan ceremony with candles, pine branches, incense and flowers.

Lighting candles to honor a patron saint

Mayan (not Catholic)  cross of flowers, with incense and candles as part of Mayan  ceremony

One lovely natural moment on our Chiapas tour came from a boat trip on the Grijalva River in the Sumidero Canyon. The canyon walls are up to 1000 meters high, and the play of sunlight and shadows in the canyon is, well, gorge-ous. And there are critters --- vultures, monkeys, and crocodiles. See below.

Sumidero Canyon

Local Crocodile

Marina is both well-versed and well-connected in the world of Fine Arts. She brought us to weavers who worked with the classic back strap loom, to the wonderful Textile Museum and Coop in San Cristobal de las Casas, and to the workshop of the warm and wonderful Juana Gomez Ramirez, also known as The Jaguar Lady. 

Juana grew up dreaming of jaguars during her childhood. Years later, she uses the red clay from her area of Chiapas to create museum quality work and an international following. Her family is involved with the business, and they were kind enough to prepare lunch for us while Juana finished one of her cats. Everyone wanted to hug Juana. She has that kind of magnetism.

Juana Gomez Ramirez, dreamer of Jaguars

A museum-quality cat

A few words about San Cristobal de las Casas, the lovely colonial city where we spent the last three days of our trip. This is a fairly cosmopolitan town, with three pedestrian streets, lots of good restaurants and shopping, and a very cool artisan's market with candy shops. Marina has friends there, too, if you want to have clothing made, or if you're in the market for amber, the local semi-precious stone. 

We had very good meals at Bangcook Thai Restaurant and Secreto Restaurant, located at 16 de Septiembre  24. The latter features a very special pork dish for two, which takes about a day to prepare. It was tender and delicious, with salads of cactus and red onion, fried cheese squares, black beans and a tomato/chili coulis. By the way, this dinner was our most expensive, and it cost about $54. for two of us, including a glass of wine and dessert. So worth it! Ask for Alfredo the wonderful waiter.  For breakfast or a tasty sweet, please try Ooh La La, the French bakery with two locations. Their almond croissants are as good as Paris or Montreal, I promise. 

The killer pork dish at Secreto

There is one problem with San Cristobal. It's cold in the winter, as it's pretty high up --- over 7000 ft. So we were living in temps around the mid-40s Fahrenheit. And --- here's the kicker --- almost none of the hotels offer heat. We found out later that a handful of hotels offer electric heaters at extra cost, but ours didn't. So it's hard to get warm sometimes, and easy to get run down. We brought layers as instructed, but the damp and cold were an issue. 

San Cristobal Cathedral

One other comment, about group travel. You have all kinds of different people, with different physical abilities, speeds, needs and personalities. Sometimes it can be a challenge for sure. Pack your patience and leave your assumptions at home. On the other hand, you may meet some very cool folks with similar interests. It all comes with the territory, and it's all part of the journey.

I am always happy to answer questions if I can. Happy and safe travels!