Our
weighty conclusion was reached over Tico sours and complementary bar snacks of smashed,
fried plantains with guacamole. All of us were seasoned travelers, several from
Europe, and two of us were traveling with kids. There were about ten of us in
all. We had gathered the last several nights at Bosque del Cabo’s poolside bar
before dinner, to enjoy tropical cocktails and compare notes on our day’s
activities. And now, the consensus was simply this: eco-lodges on Costa Rica’s
Osa Peninsula are the perfect vacation solution for almost everyone.
Well,
maybe not for shopaholics. Aside from small shops at the lodges themselves and
a weekly farmers’ market, there are no stores of any kind, only a few basic
restaurants, and no power grid on the Osa.
I never
heard a complaint about this, however. Perhaps because this shoe-shaped
peninsula, which juts out of the southwest Costa Rica into the Pacific, is
chock full of incredible flora and fauna. Half of Costa Rica’s and 5% of the
world’s biodiversity live here. We’re talking 700 species of trees, 117 species
of reptiles, over 360 species of birds. Insects number at about 10,000
varieties. Farmland, rainforests and jungle spread out to meet the blue-green
ocean, and all are very much alive with sights and sounds. Indeed, National Geographic calls the Osa “one
of the most biologically intense places on earth.” One guest referred to it as “The
Garden of Eden.” Without a doubt, this special area is a natural jewel.
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| Check out the harlequin beetle. So cool. |
I have
recently returned from my fourth visit to the Osa since 1998. I have stayed at five
different eco-lodges --- Lapa Rios, Encanta La Vida, and Bosque del Cabo around
Matapalo; Playa Nicuesa reached via a 20 minute boat ride from the town of Golfito;
and Luna Lodge, the farthest afield in Carate, a stone’s throw from Corcovado
National Park. Three of these I have
visited more than once. The eco-lodges offer different degrees of “luxury” in
terms of accommodations, amenities and meals. Four out of five are priced at roughly
several hundred dollars per night per person; Encanta is priced at about half
of these rates, but the food, digs, and facilities are correspondingly simpler.
All of the lodges provide commodious, low-impact cabinas, most with outdoor
showers and private porches. All of them include tasty food options with “full
board” plans which include local fruit and vegetables. Again, Encanta’s meals
are decidedly simpler than the others. Lapa
Rios, Bosque, Encanta and Luna have a pool for relaxing “down-time;” Nicuesa
has a small beach and pier for swimming.
With exploration
and soft adventure in mind, all of the lodges arrange a myriad of activities,
mostly outside of the lodge and for extra charge, such as fishing, kayaking,
snorkeling, horseback riding, massage, surfing, waterfall rapelling and in one
case (Luna Lodge) panning for gold on the river. Many of the lodges have
evocative yoga platforms overlooking the mountains or ocean, and act as venue for
yoga retreats guided by a teacher. My stay at Encanta benefitted from a large
yoga group that brought its own teacher and a very good chef. Lana Wedmore,
owner at Luna Lodge, is also a dedicated practicioner and leads yoga sessions.
Most
importantly, a stay at any of these eco lodges provides its guests with access
to extensive roads and trails systems, and guides (varying from good to excellent)
who will happily show you the natural wonders around you. There are four
species of monkeys, hundreds of species of birds, (including scarlet macaws and
toucans who look painted by Disney), sloths, tarantulas, tapirs, wild cats, strangler
figs, electric blue butterflies called morphos, snakes, and lots more. Encounters
with wild things happen constantly; in the Osa, Nature comes to you.
Do-it-yourselfers
can spend hours hiking on trails or just roaming the lodge property and see
plenty of wildlife. But hiring a guide for $15-20. per hour takes your wildlife
spotting up to a new level. Virtually all of the guides are locals, most have
taken the rigorous certification required in Costa Rica to be a naturalist
guide. Some come equipped with Swarovski scopes and birdcall apps on their smartphones.
All have a really good sense of the rainforest and what it holds. --- they know
where the red-capped manakin does its “moonwalk” mating dance; they know where
the sloth lives hidden in the bamboo tree high overhead; they know the location
of the hummingbird nest, and where you are most likely to spot a puma. Trust
me: they see things you will never see.
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Toucan, four can
Outside our room at Nicuesa |
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The elusive sloth
Carlos spotted him for us |
My traveler’s
tale on this subject comes from our first night walk in the jungle with a guide
named Tomas at Lapa Rios, back in 1998. About five of us were walking the trail
quietly with our flashlights when Tomas said “Oh wow, an adult walking stick.”
He led us about 50 feet ahead into the darkness, and then shined his torch on
the insect, a stick with thread-like legs, about 3-4 inches. “Where?” I still couldn’t see it. It took me a half
a minute to find the walking stick when I was virtually on top of it. But Tomas
saw it in almost complete darkness, from quite a distance. It turns out that
Tomas had a rep as one of the best guides in Costa Rica, a country that admires
nature guides the way Americans admire sports stars. I believe he has since
moved to Monteverde. But if you want a great guided experience, you can still
hire Oscar at Luna Lodge and Carlos at Bosque del Cabo; both are excellent
guides and fine companions.
I love
the Osa. I never feel more aware, more in tune with nature, more in synch with
the flow of life, than when I am there. One tends to be active while the sun is
up, eat healthy foods, and sleep well after a day of fun and exercise. All the
while you learn about yourself and the world around you. What more can you ask
from a vacation?
Some planning notes and advice. The climate in the Osa is
tropical, which means strong sun and high humidity most of the time. The
temperature rarely falls below 80 F and often exceeds 90 F with humidity in the
60-90% range. The “rainy season” starts second half of April and extends
through November, with heaviest rainfall in October. As a practical matter,
this means showers in the afternoon and evening. However, even this general
information is subject to the microclimatic differences in the area. We were in
the Osa April 20-28, 2013. It rained daily at Nicuesa in Golfito, but we did
not see rain at all in Matapalo.
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View from inside Sol cabina at Bosque
Views are of the ocean and "the monkey highway" |
There are some creepy creatures in the Osa,
but they are not likely to be a bother. In my experience, mosquitoes have not been
an issue (thanks to the bats?). There are some poisonous snakes, but they are
very shy and not commonly encountered. We always shake our shoes and clothes
out to make sure no scorpion or other creature has crawled in. Remember you are
a guest in nature’s jungle. There is some co-existence involved; in fact, that
is the whole idea.
The
climate dictates that you hydrate often (all of the lodges make purified water
available at all times), not over-exert your body, and use sun protection.
Also, it is very useful to have quick-drying, non-cotton clothes that wick away
moisture (check out Patagonia, Orvis, North Face, Coumbia, or other “outdoor
wear.”) One pair of sandals and a pair of sturdy “trail shoes” are a must. You
may also want to have a swimsuit along. And, of course, bring binoculars and the best camera you have.
One
question that many visitors ask is whether a trip to Corcovado National Park,
the 100,000 acre parcel on the ocean in Carate, is worth the time and expense.
Of course, if you visit Luna Lodge the park is just 15 minutes down the hill.
However, my personal advice is not to bother. For one thing, access to the park
is restricted for most visitors to just a few trails. It is fairly hot and
steamy there, adjacent to the sand beach. And you will probably see just as
much wildlife outside the park as inside it. That was my experience, anyway.
Lodge web sites:
Transportation: Most travelers come from San
Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. From there, the Osa is best reached by a
50-minute plane ride, booked through either Sansa Regional Air or Nature Air.
The small-plane service will take you to either Golfito (Playa Nicuesa) or
Puerta Jimenez (all others). The fare is about $130 per person, each way. Many
of the lodges will assist with these arrangements, as well as pick you up and
transport you from either town.
You must visit the Osa! A great place to educate children, get outdoors, relax, and re-discover nature.
