spybird travel

spybird travel

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Sumbawa and HAS / please read!

       I hope that everyone is off to an excellent spring, and send warm greetings to friends, family and readers. This is a wonderful time of year, isn't it? Lots of re-birth and renewal, and making plans for summer fun... And for me, this was a very special March and April for a lot of reasons, but mostly because of my experiences traveling, and especially the time spent at the HAS clinic in Sumbawa, Indonesia. Sumbawa is an island two east of Bali; it is beautiful, poor and undeveloped.

       Some of you may know that Cheryl found my new friend Jack Kennedy for me, through an article about him in our local Maine newspaper. About two years ago Jack founded a project called Health Access Sumbawa (www.healthaccesssumbawa.org). The organization is a partnership among Jack and two friends, founded with the mission of wiping out malaria in three remote villages on the island of Sumbawa, Indonesia. HAS also planned to build and operate a sustainable health clinic to test and treat locals for malaria, while providing a community center for village use.

       What I saw in March during my visit to the clinic and those villages was remarkable and inspiring:
        ~ a finished clinic building outfitted with electricity, a good-sized front porch, and running water (the only running water in town!)
       ~ an organic irrigated garden already yielding veggies
       ~ cabinets stocked with medical supplies, gauze, etc.
       ~  extra treated bed nets beyond those that HAS already distributed and installed house by house for every occupant of all three villages. "Thanks to some friends and villagers providing transport, we have completed the bed net distribution part of our program, 569 in all, and ahead of schedule," Jack said with a smile. "We keep extras here as the need arises."
       ~ I met the nurse who will study microscopy this summer at the WHO-certified malaria facility belonging to The Sumba Foundation. A microscope has been ordered for his use, so malaria detection will be quick and accurate.
clinic main room, cabinet now stocked
       Beyond this, it has become clear that the clinic must be ready to treat villagers for medical issues beyond malaria, and Jack's organization is already responding in ways I witnessed. Older men came over to choose a pair of reading glasses from some department store pairs Jack brought along. One young man, injured while building a village well, has been given a wheel chair. Stool softener and catheters he needs have been added to the HAS budget. While I was there Jack arranged some sterilized "delivery kits" for local midwives through a surfing nurse from Australia we met in Lakey, across the bay.
On the front porch
       In the early evening, the front porch of the clinic becomes a community center with kids playing, young men practicing English and playing chess. A village lady comes by to get some of the pole beans from the clinic garden, and later returns with a gift of mountain honey. The children are quite adorable. Jack and I went over to schools in two villages to give an English lesson. They held our hands and gave us a warm send off.
Jack and the kids at English class
       Jack and his partners are doing incredible work to serve these 1000 people, and they are working on a "lean and mean" budget. There are very few administrative costs, and because the project is so focused in nature, its goals are do-able, and currently on schedule. I saw all of this with my own eyes. Imagine wiping out malaria in three villages within the next two years, and improving the health and quality of life for 1000 people going forward.

     PLEASE do me this favor: look at the website for www.healthaccesssumbawa.org and check out the work it is doing, photographs, etc. Some of you have already generously supported this work through purchase of my tune Fingersnap of Time by our studio group, the A Team Band, here: http://monterisimusic.com/listen-watch. I am very grateful to you! IF you haven't yet, please consider even a small contribution. These can be made either through the HAS website or purchase of my music (100% will be sent to HAS), or if you have some other idea or talent that may be useful, please e-mail Jack directly at jackinmaine@live.com.

     I am committed to helping Jack do this wonderful work, and I hope you might join me. Any assistance at all is meaningful at this level. The yearly budget is a modest $10,000, although there are a few more capital expenditures to be made. The dollar leverage is great --- without a lot of admin or overhead, the money gets to the bottom line.

     Many thanks for reading this! Many thanks for your time and support. Sending you blessings and my best wishes always.

     John



     

Friday, April 22, 2016

Vietnam Whirlwind

     I'm not sure why I'm so surprised at this, but Vietnam blew me away.

     It is warm and welcoming, offers delicious, fresh food and sight-seeing, exciting cities, sumptuous resorts and great value for your tourist dollar. This spring I spent only a week in Vietnam, under the wing of Abercrombie & Kent. It was barely enough time to scratch the surface. Our itinerary was limited to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Hoi An, and Hanoi to finish, and I know I missed a lot of great touring opps. But here are some quick tips and biased opinions to encourage and guide the newbie:

     SAIGON. We were very concerned at first about using the right name for the former capital of South Vietnam, but it turns out that people there just choose the name they relate to best. The older folks seem to favor Saigon, although younger hipsters use this name also. Ho Chi Minh City is obviously politically correct, but not popular with most people we met in the tourist world.

     Saigon is electric, feels young and full of commerce. It is built on a numbered "district" plan that borrows from the Parisian idea of arrondissement. There are pockets of fancy stores and swanky hotels in District 1. We stayed in the Hotel Des Arts on 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St in District 3, but very close to attractions. This is an Mgallery property that has a great rooftop bar, a boutique feel, and a deluxe breakfast.

     Temple Club (www.templeclub.com.vn) is an old restaurant in District 1, with an informal, colonial vibe, friendly waiters and solid food. Stick to local specialties.

     GRAIN Cooking Studio (www.grainbyluke.com) Level 3 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, provides a wonderful hands-on four course cooking class and is a great introduction to the flavors of Vietnamese food. We rocked Pumpkin Flowers Stuffed with Prawn & Dill, Chicken & Cabbage Salad with Jellyfish, and Marinated Sea Bass with Green Mango Salad, cooked in banana leaf and super-tasty, if I don't say so myself! A great experience and so nurturing.
my sea bass dish, steamed in banana leaf
     We had a guided tour of the Reunification Hall, originally the presidential palace before the Fall of Saigon in 1975, and saw Notre Dame Cathedral briefly.

     A high point in Saigon was the Vespa Bike Tour, night-time version courtesy of Vietnam Vespa Adventures (www.vespaadventures.com) . It starts with a cocktail and appeteaser at Cafe Zoom and a meeting with your experienced Vespa guide. Then, you are given a tour through five stops in the city, each with a food or beverage experience, from China Town to an island district for seafood, then the best Banh Xeo (Vietnamese "pizza") in town, then an intimate coffee house with romantic music, and finally a club with a local rock band and drinks. It lasts 4.5 hours and costs $93. The Vespas are extra cool because they are vintage mid-1960s and gorgeous machines. The experience can be hair-raising, but it is safe and so much fun. It really gives you a sense of the city. The team gives you a souvenir photo. Highly recommended.
A Vespa food stop at the venerable Banh Xeo

     HOI AN. Located about 15 miles southeast of the airport at Danang, Hoi An is an ancient town that sits on the banks of Thu Bon River about 3 miles inland from the coast. That coast has a gorgeous and clean white sand beach where GIs used to come for R&R during the Vietnam War. Back then it was called China Beach. Hoi An was a port and melting pot for eastern and western cultures. Nowadays, there is still a thriving silk industry, farming and tourism. The town itself is incredibly romantic and sweet. Lots of silk lanterns, a 400-year-old Japanese bridge, old French architecture, shops and restaurants near the water.


many silk lanterns in Hoi An
   Organic Vegetable Farming / Fishing Tour. This experience was a wonderful and very "hands on" full day of activities provided by Jack Tran's EcoTours (www.jacktranecotourshoian.com). It included working in the fields, riding a water buffalo, fishing by two local methods, and acting silly in the "coconut boat." There was also some wonderful swimming off the boat before lunch, prepared with considerable expertise by "Captain Cook" on board. I must add here that lunch on this fairly small boat --- with no galley to speak of --- was first rate: stuffed calamari, giant prawns with salt, pepper and lime, and other treats. Yes, I was hungry because of all my "labors" doing chores with the locals, but no doubt "Captain Cook" was awesome.

     Ganesh Fine Indian Cuisine (www.ganesh.vn) is in old town, Hoi An. If you like Indian food, and want a break from Vietnamese, this is first rate and fairly inexpensive. The reviews on the internet do not lie. Maybe the best Indian food I've had outside of India.

     Vietnam Vespa Adventures (see above), part 2. The Hoi An branch of this fine company takes you to a typical ancestral temple, two home industries (mat weaving and bahn dap rice crackers), over "an adrenaline pumping" 300 meter bamboo bridge, to a coffee roaster, and a seafood lunch on the shores of Ha My beach. It is great fun, educational, and supports the locals. Everyone was welcoming and we had a particularly sweet experience with the Rice Cracker Maiden, who posed for a pic with Cheryl.
Across on the back of a Vespa? Ok, sure..
     Nam Hai Resort, Hoi An. http://www.ghmhotels.com/en/nam-hai/ At the risk of being snooty, let me say this is the ONLY place to stay in Hoi An. It is bliss. TA Certificate of Excellent, Hall of Fame  and 94% excellent rating. Expensive? Oh yes. But fantastic villas, a gorgeous two-tiered infinity pool, bikes for free, delicious food, badminton, free activities, gym, library, shuttle service in and out of the old town AND a perfect beach with virtually no one on it. People seem to love their jobs and are very helpful. There are planned activities and special pools for kids. 
Beach or pool? The choice is yours.
      Breakfast was included in our package and it was epic is size and scope. There was a Vietnamese noodle dish with pork that was incredible, and Indian roti. Any kind of fruit or juice you can imagine. And that terrific Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, over ice. Perfect.

     The Nam Hai is one of the top five properties I've stayed at. You should, too.

     HANOI is a very pretty capital city of about 7 million and boasts city center with lots of trees, green space and lovely French architecture. Walking around downtown may belie the fact that Hanoi is growing rapidly. According to PriceWaterhouseCooper, it is the largest growing city in the world in terms of GDP, based on industry booming in the suburbs. 

      The Old Quarter near Hoan Kiem lake (also known as Sword Lake), is very interesting, with streets named for the craft or service its inhabitants deal in. Merchants, local food shops and stalls are everywhere. A visit by pedi-cab is fun. We also visited Ho Chi Minh's Museum and home, and the Hanoi Hilton, where John McCain was in residence at one time.

     One of the best parts of our trip to Hanoi was walking through the back streets with our new friend Thao. She works with Abercrombie & Kent as a guide when she is not touring with her own company,  Vietnam by Vespa (www.vietnambyvespa.com). Thao has a great insider's perspective on Hanoi, especially eating and drinking there. She took us to several small food shops and stalls for banh my, pho, bun thang and other tasty treats. Then we visited the Hang Be Market with all of its exotic fruits and vegetables, and tried a few treats from merchant carts.  I had to sample betel nut, as it reminded me of fresh paan that I love so well. There was much amusement among local ladies, to be sure.

     One of the most interesting stops for me was at the venerable coffee house Cafe Ciang, which back in 1946 gave birth to one of Hanoi's specialties --- egg cappuccino. Creamy and satisfying, this invention came from post-war scarcity of milk. It is delicious and not to be missed. 
the lovely Ms. Thao with egg cappuccino

    We really enjoyed Thao's company. She is knowledgeable and informative, and what she told us about her life growing up in Hanoi was very interesting. As icing on the cake, she will e-mail you a list of the places you visited with her and what you ate or saw. Please look her up and use her services. Highly recommended.

    The water puppet show (Roi Nuoc) is fun entertainment featuring artists standing waist-deep in water making puppets move, laugh, dance and talk. Traditional music is played live and there is some singing as well. Great for all ages.

     The Sofitel Legend Metropole in Hanoi should be its own destination. Built in 1901, this grand dame of French architecture is a wonderful home away from home. There are new and old wings (we lived in the new), a great pool and lobby, excellent food, and a unique bomb shelter which can be toured. It was here in 1972 that Joan Baez wrote  and recorded Where Are You Now My Son? while the bombs were falling. This place is full of history, extraordinary service and comfort. We were delighted to stay here.

     Oh, Vietnam. You are a charmer for sure. With all of the guilt and bad memories we Americans bring to a visit here, I found that the Vietnam I saw was ready to turn the page. The prevailing attitude is that Vietnam wants to explore its full potential, grow in positive ways, and sees the US as a potential partner, a good influence, a big brother. With so much beauty and charm and vitality, Vietnam offers a great visiting experience. And one that left me hoping to return. 







Thursday, April 21, 2016

Ubud 2016

     Returning to Ubud for the third time, I was struck by the increase in tourism, the continued construction especially on Bisma Road, and the traffic. Like all of south Bali, Ubud has become a destination of choice for many travelers, and offers a broad range of accommodations, mind/body  and cultural activities. It has also stepped up its game in the area of excellent dining establishments. This latter was a great revelation.

     This time we stayed at Komeneka at Bisma, a five-star property and one of the five sublime Komeneka properties. It has 2016 Certificate of Excellence from Trip Advisor, and a 97% excellent review status. We had a villa with a lanai facing a wonderful view of the rice fields. There was yoga on certain days, tea service every day, a great pool, use of the Komeneka shuttle every hour, a free entry to the Neka Gallery and impeccable service. This is my second stay at a Komeneka property (I stayed at Tanggayuda three years ago) and I felt very much at home here. I do speak a few words of Bahassa (Indonesian) so the staff always wants to talk for a few minutes and this can be an effort after awhile, but they are so sweet I really could not object. Love the Komeneka at Bisma. Highly
recommended.
The Infinity Pool. Komeneka at Bisma

     Bali Bird Walks (http://balibirdwalk.com/index.html) with my friend Sumadi is a "must do" in my book. I have been out with Su four times now, and she always provides an exceptional experience with fun and learning in equal measures, with some good exercise and incredible scenery to boot. The  trip is 2.5 hours and then lunch at Murni's Warung.  Su will provide binos and water if you need them, and a bird list to fill in over lunch. The price of $37. is an amazing value. Su is a very special person and a luminous being. Read the TA reviews. You don't want to miss this.

     I am thrilled to report that I had many close-up sightings of that gorgeous fella, the Javan kingfisher, and as a God-given bonus, a great look at a blue-eared kingfisher, which took my breath away.
Javan kingfisher
               *********************

     One of my favorite food experiences in recent memory happened at Locavore on Jalan Dewi Sita. It was suggested by my Insight Travel Guide to Bali and I booked it a few days in advance. There are 5- and 7- course menus with drink pairings if you want them (we passed). Cosktails are delicious and creative. The food, presentation, explanations, vibe are all superb. Of course all the food is locally sourced, and beautiful to look at. There are numerous little bites, amuse bouche, post-desserts, which are extra added attractions. The
Blue eared kingfisher
veggie options are every bit as tasty as the meat/fish options. Dishes like young bamboo stewed in its own juices with chervil and beurre blanc amaze and enthrall one's tastebuds. They did a "bloody mary" hot/cold soup sorbet thing with intense tomato flavors that was absolutely killa. I think we paid about $120. for two, with cocktails; expensive for Bali but, as I say, a real dining experience.

     As a more informal option, there is now a Locavore to Go across the street from the original restaurant, and it is serving 3-courses for lunch and dinner. We were also knocked out here by a delicious warm vichyssoise with fried leeks and bacon bits, served with "Asian pesto" (lemon basil, young goat cheese and coconut oil) and homemade sourdough bread, followed by tangine of lamb shank, and a tropical bread pudding for dessert. Outrageously good! I think it was about $60. with drinks. Check them out on Facebook.
Warm leek & potato soup with "pesto" and sourdough
Delicious lamb shanks with moroccan rice

     We also ate a dinner at Spice, Chris Salans' (French Laundry) place. This is a gastro bar where Western Food is infused with Indonesian flavors and great results. The atmosphere is very friendly and hip. Sitting at the horse-shoe shaped bar, the chef comes over and talks about your food in a very natural way. Delicious salads, cocktails, and sliders, tuna carpaccio, etc. Lots of people like this place, but you can probably get in without a res.

     For a great dining experience that is closer to Indonesian cooking, try Palau Kelapa (Jalan Raya Sanggignan). They have a lovely garden that you can tour, and pick your own veggies for the meal. Fresh food,  great outdoor seating options, and delicious homemade sorbets and ice-cream (I had durian ice cream, of course).

     The Tamarind Spa at Murni's Houses (Jalan Raya, opposite Pura Dalem, "at the aqueduct, up the ramp") is a beautiful, peaceful and professional spa operation. Cheryl enjoyed a package of treatments where I went in for reflexology/foot massage to ease my aching dogs. Great treatment at a reasonable price, clean and relaxing in a very lovely setting. Recommended.

garden at Tamarind Spa

   The Neka Museum on Raya Campurhan is certainly worth a visit for its collection and lovely grounds, but is perhaps not as compelling as the Museum Puri Lukisan ("Palace of Painting") which has even more bucolic green space, a pond and very nice cafe. Still, the Neka has a fine collection of Ubud style painting and contemporary Balinese work. As stated earlier, admission is free if you stay at any Komeneka property.

    Ubud is a hub of dance, yoga, spas, spiritual growth, shopping, food and drink, and all sorts of accommodations to fit any budget. It has definitely grown, even in the last three years, but is still very inviting due to its small-town vibe and all it offers. I hope you have the opportunity to visit.

  You can view an earlier post on Ubud here:  http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2013-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2014-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=12  and also a post on this blog, spybird,  from 7/14/14

Saturday, April 9, 2016

BALI: An Authentic Experience

  
        My recent edition of Eyewitness Travel’s Bali & Lombok travel guide says that for 2014 the number of foreign visitors to Bali reached a record number of 3.6 million. Most of these travelers are concentrated in tourist areas located in the southern third of the island --- Kuta, Denpasar, Seminyak, Ubud, Sanur, Canggu, etc. There has always been a strong inflow from neighboring Australia and former colonial overlord Holland; nowadays, visitors also come from China, Korea, Mediterrean Europe and the United States. The number of tourists becomes overly evident on the roads going south from the airport in Denpasar, Sunset Road and other main arteries in the south. You can also see the crowds in the main tourist towns listed above and most popular sights, and almost all times of the year.

       Bali is paradise to many, but that loaded concept means different things to different people. Of course there is always an element seeking The Perfect Beach with cold beer and good, inexpensive food, and Bali will surely satisfy these folk. Bintang is a delicious beer, and a tasty, filling nasi goreng (fried rice with vegetables, chicken, a fried egg and hot sauce) can be found for $1.50. For the aesthete, there are dance, culture, yoga and spa offerings in Ubud. If retail therapy is your thing, there are superb crafts created by generations of artisans--- silver (Celuk) and gold (Mas) jewelry, woodcarving, painting, textiles and clothing ---in dedicated enclaves around Bali’s southern roads. Rafting, watersports, elephant rides, canyoning, etc. are there for active thrill-seekers, even without going north to volcanoes and the national park. Bali offers great vacation options to just about everyone.

       But what about those who come seeking to learn and even witness first hand what it means to live the Balinese way, those who want to understand the visually distinctive religious community known as the banyar, to have the ubiquitous “offerings” and day to day life explained, to see how families live and share various duties in their compounds? How can we outsiders look “inside?” What about interactions beyond the sale of goods and services?
      
       The answer is it’s all there if you want it, but you need to get off the Tourist Trail. Enter Jack Kennedy and Kadek Gindere and their properties, Honey Tree Villa and Honey Tree Homestay.
       
       First, a few words about Jack. He is my new friend, a neighbor in Maine, and the founding partner of Health Access Sumbawa (www.healthaccesssumbawa.org), an organization that is working to eradicate malaria from three remote villages on the island of Sumbawa (two islands east of Bali). Jack and his partners have just built a clinic in Sili, Sumbawa and are having its nurse trained in microscopy at a WHO-recognized facility this summer.  Jack has been coming to Bali for 20 years and grew up in Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  The story of how Jack met Kadek and his wife Made is worth asking him about, but that must wait now so we can circle back to describe the Honey Tree properties.

       These are two Air BnB properties. I'm not sure Honey Tree Homestay is up yet as it is brand new, but Honey Tree Villa can be viewed here: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1033371
       They are located in the village of Taman, near Sangeh, about 30-40 minutes northwest of Ubud. This is essentially an area of beautiful, wild jungle and rice paddies dotted with several small communities. I lived at Honey Tree Villa for almost a month in March-April, 2016. It is a private, gated property with space to sleep three or four people, one air-con room, a lovely pool and garden, and bicycles. You can arrange to have Made prepare tasty meals at a very reasonable price or prepare your own as I did most of the time. With just a bit of notice Kadek will take you where you want to go including airport transfers (more on this later).
Inviting Pool at Honey Tree Villa
I should say at this juncture that Honey Tree Villa is not a place for everyone. The villa was designed without closed walls and ceilings in places, and is partially open to the elements. The upside of this natural eco concept is you are communing directly with the beauty of the jungle, and can enjoy private but open showers and the like. The downside (for some people, anyway) is that you are living with ants, geckos, beetles, large (harmless) bees, wasps, lizards --- all manner of creatures that creep, fly and crawl ---- and you will notice them, no doubt. Food must be kept in the refrigerator. Jaksy the house dog is sweet and mostly lovable, but sometimes she barks at night, whether you keep her in or out of the house. The rooster next door makes sure you are up by 5:00 am latest. And you are pretty isolated. Taxis from Ubud may not know how to bring you home. There is no shopping very close by except some basic warungs. There are no boules (white people), either --- if you like to hang out with folks from The Western World, you came to the wrong part of Bali. And so far, both Honey Tree properties get only intermittent internet (Jack is working on that).

But with that disclaimer, allow me to tempt you with the prospect of stunning local scenery and relaxation in a cool pool, a peek into local life that is all but unavailable to most tourists, getting to know these sweet and hospitable people, and discovering the Bali that may be rapidly disappearing into the modern world, or at least insulating itself from it. As a bonus, here you can forget about tourist buses, crowds and traffic. And here’s the kicker: all of this comes at a mere fraction of what you will pay “in town.” Food and lodging at Honey Tree cost maybe a third of what I pay at western style accomodations and restaurants in, say, Ubud.

Sounds good, right?

The first thing to do is put your “Tourist Hit List” away and tell Jack or Kadek about your interests so they can guide you. There are some spectacular bike rides that can be arranged so they are  mostly downhill and take you through terraced rice fields, water temples and local villages. Just down the hill from the villa are springs and a public bath where local people get their water and bathe. A bit further down the same road is a small barn-size production facility for fresh tofu and tempe (less than $1.00 bought me six meals worth, and it was delicious). Jack and I got a great workout at a local indoor badminton facility (racquets and rental were a few dollars), and this was maybe ten minutes from the villa by bike. If you want to travel a bit further afield to visit Bali’s largest waterfall, Kadek will suggest a less crowded time and if you’re lucky, he will bring along his sweet son, Vico (be sure to try the breadfruit chips from the warung near the parking area). Of course, trips to Ubud and other tourist centers are easily arranged if you really want them.
Waterfall day trip
If Made is not cooking for you there is an excellent Padang restaurant a few minutes away by car, where you can choose from maybe a dozen options of protein and veg, and have a delicious meal to eat in or take out for $3-$4. For $3., my “usual” was the excellent beef, fried chicken, and tuna, with local greens, rice and sambal.  I could happily eat there three or four times a week. Kadek can also bring in a very good chop cay (stewed veg with a bit of chicken, served with rice) or nasi goreng for a couple of dollars. Or you can stock a few items from western or local “traditional” markets and cook for yourself as I suggest above; everything you need to cook and serve is on site.

My arrival in Bali just happened to coincide with the beginning of the Hindu new year holiday of Nyepi (Day of Silence). The night before, villagers parade ogoh-ogoh (effigies of outrageous, giant evil spirits, made from papier mache) through the town after dusk with torches, and then burn them. There I was, with Kadek and the local kids helping to carry the ogoh-ogoh and joining the fun. This was a completely unique experience and great start to my time in Taman.

Ogoh-ogoh



One of the most interesting moments from my trip was the preparation by Kadek’s family of lawar nyawan, a wonderful but labor intensive Balinese traditional food made from honey comb, green papaya, kefir lime, toasted coconut and spices. I had heard about this dish from my friend Sumadi (of Bali Bird Walks), whose eyes glazed over with rapture as she described it. Over at Kadek’s family compound (just next door to Honey Tree Homestay), his uncle showed us where he keeps his bees, demonstrated how he extracts honeycomb, and then lovingly prepared this delicacy over the next two hours with the able assistance of Made. He also made curried chicken, vegetables and rice. Kadek brought in some cold Bintangs. It was a superb dinner and an amazing learning experience. This special meal cost about $7; Jack threw in the same amount. Two days later Made prepared tasty banana pancakes for breakfast for Jack and me topped with some of the honey Uncle harvested. I think breakfast was $3. 
Honey Comb


Preparing lawar nyawan
I asked help from Kadek in planning a trip to a few of the silver jewelry shops in Celuk, including one called Prapen that Cheryl liked so much on our visit here a few years ago. He was a great help, wonderful company and drove the van with expertise and safety. After shopping he took me to an excellent restaurant specializing in duck and overlooking rice fields, and we had delicious crispy duck for lunch. On the way home, Kadek asked if I wanted to see a good painter’s commune and we stopped by for just a few minutes.

Kadek will help you buy food at western or traditional markets, change money and generally navigate your way around the area and things you want/need to do, and his services come with a pleasant smile and helpful attitude. The price for Kadek’s driving and airport runs is very reasonable and indicated on the Air BnB sites. He is simply awesome, and an invaluable guide to Balinese culture. He answered all of my many questions patiently.

As a bonus, near the end of my stay Kadek was kind enough to invite me to his friend’s wedding reception in a small town about 20 minutes away. The bride and groom were very welcoming. The event was lovely, colorful and a real slice of life.
Balinese wedding
The reader will be interested to know that most of the experiences described above were unplanned and/or suggested by Jack or Kadek. And they are some of my fondest memories. After awhile, I  enjoyed tooling around on my bike, getting smiles or a cheery Pagi! from the adult locals and high fives from the kids, stopping at a warung for a bit of veg, a small bag of sugar or a cold drink, watching ceremonies and offerings.


For me, Bali is singular in its exotic beauty, color, architecture and lifestyle. Its heady mix of Hinduism and animism creates an all-encompassing spirituality that is, without exaggeration, a feast for the senses. And Indonesians are incredibly hospitable and warm, especially outside the main tourist thoroughfares (where, let’s face it, locals can get just a tad jaded). On this trip, my third, I was able to dive deeper for a very satisfying, closer look at Bali, its people and its culture, and I did it with the help of my friends Jack and Kadek. A different and very special kind of vacation, and one I will never forget.