Spain, 2015, part 3 --- Madrid!

       As I have said elsewhere in this blog, Madrid seems like the forgotten step-daughter of European capitals, even though its metro area is third largest in the EU and its population exceeds 3 million. The city has a decidedly modern infrastructure, plenty of green space and first-rate metro, while it houses plenty of historic buildings and neighborhoods.

Lion guard at a government finance building

       Certainly one jewel in Madrid's crown is the incredible Prado Museum, with an almost embarrassing wealth of classic paintings like Goya, Velazquez and Rubens. Currently there is a wonderful exhibit of El Greco's work and a temporary showing of ten paintings by Picasso culled from various stages of his development. The Prado has free admission on certain days and times, which are worth seeking out to avoid the 24E entrance fee. The Reina Sofia is a modern art collection which we missed but will see next time. The Royal Palace is beautiful and imposing. The Plaza de Espana has the classic sculpture of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza to honor Cevantes. And the Buen Retiro Park is an expansive urban oasis, like New York's Central Park.

Arab-influenced architecture at the Bull Fighting Arena

     The Hospes Hotel was our base of operations, and is located in a convenient area in the northeast corner of the city adjacent to the Alcala Gate. It is a 5-star, with large, comfortable quiet rooms. The service was just okay. Housekeeping actually left our room open after cleaning by mistake (that could have been a disaster). And, the hotel attempted to charge us for water after they failed to leave us a promised bottle of water, and we sought some from the mini bar. Good breakfast, though.

       The new indoor food market near the oldest part of the city is a great place to shop and people watch, and nearby is Cava Baja Street, with some very old restaurants. One, called Restaurante Sobrino de Botin, is said to be the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world. We ate at Casa Lucas on Cava Baja 30 at the suggestion of our guide. We were not disappointed. They combined braised oxtail with dates and pistachios, rolled the mixture into meatballs and served as a small dish with a tasty sauce.

     Maybe the best meal of our stay came from a small but busy taverna off in a funky student/mult-ethnic enclave near metro stop Anton Martin. The place, called Taberna El Sur (Torrecilla del Leal, 12) seems to have quite a following on the internet. It was excellent. Lots of tasty options with large portions and reasonable prices. There was salad with nuts and goat cheese, savory small plates, dessert and the best sangria of the trip. Ask for Alex (even though he is a Yankees fan).

     Much of the fun here is just walking around neighborhoods and poking around. The people are very friendly and happy to guide you. Of all the Iberian ham we enjoyed in Spain, we had the best sample simply stopping into an old taverna for a quick snack.

    Love Madrid, don't neglect her. This is a wonderful, exciting city!

   


   

Spain, 2015, Part 2 -- Menorca es mejor.

   Menorca is one of the Balearic Islands off the eastern coast of Spain in the blue Mediterean Sea, usually accessed by air or ferry from Barcelona. Its name comes from its relative size compared to Majorica, the largest of the Balearics. It is a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1993. There are two larger port towns of about 30,000 people on either end of the island; these are Mahon and Ciutadella.

I've had a fantasy about visiting Menorca for about 10 years now, since visiting Majorica, and I'm here to report that this island does not disappoint. It has fantastic natural resources, a fun, laid-back kind of vibe, monolithic structures, 900 species of wildflowers and some of the best beaches anywhere. The beaches, virtually unknown outside the Balearics, number over 100, and are as accessible or remote as you like. Most invite swimmers; many have services and even restaurants on them. This is not a place for nightlife (go to the infamous Ibiza for that), but offers lots of appealing, family-style amusements, food and drink, and plenty of outdoor activity.

We stayed in Mahon, the large town closest to the airport. Our hotel, Jardi des ses Bruixes, http://hotelsesbruixes.com/en/, came at the recommendation of a friend of mine in Barcelona. It was an excellent choice. The 8-room property is well-located on a quiet street in town, with lots of characteristic charm. Its rooms are spacious and the bathrooms have been redone with lovely modern fixtures and appointments. The staff is warm and helpful. Breakfast is a treat. As a bonus, there is a wonderful rooftop with good views. We enjoyed our stay immensely and give Jardi two thumbs up.

Great Comfort Room at Jardi de see Bruixes

Rooftop view from Jardi

We enjoyed two beach visits during our time in Menorca,  the sprawling Playa Son Bou and smaller Es Grau. We found that many beaches and all towns are easily and affordably accessed by public bus from the Estacion Autobus. Buses came and went on time, and the driver sells tickets on board.

To get "the big picture," we decided to book the "Island Tour" with Excursiones Mernorca. This was a full day affair, including a walking tour of Ciutadella, visit to a cheese-maker, some time in the fishing village of Fornells, and a visit to the shrine on top of Monte Toro, the highest point on the island. Our guide, named Alex, was knowledgeable and spoke English well. The trouble with the tour was the hour and a half from pick-up to the point where the tour begins on the other side of the island. Of course we had to chase down stragglers at several points and spent a lot of bus time getting to and from Cuitadella, picking up and dropping off others. But a good tour; 42E per person.

Naturally, one gets hungry with so much exploring (and shoe shopping. The local shoe, avarcas, are a big hit with my sweetie). Here are a few restaurants and recommendations:

1. Cas Ferrer de sa Font (www.casferrer.com) is a small, organic restaurant in Cuitadella. They have already received accolades from Forbes and The New York Times, and with good reason. This is delicious, unpretentious homemade food with attention to quality ingredients. Lamb ribs were flavorful as was the salad. Special mention to the mint chip ice cream, which was superb. This restaurant definitely deserves your visit.

2. Torralbenc is a Menorcan farm that has been transformed into a hotel with luxury spa, pool and restaurant under the "renowned chef" Paco Morales. The property itself is simple but stunning and well-worth a visit. The food was good but not worth all the fuss we had heard. There was a vegetable medley that sounded better than it was and purposefully included two leaves of white fat (for flavor?). I kept wishing they were noodles. My pork shoulder was good but nothing special. I would probably not go back unless I could swim in the pool (but then I couldn't afford dinner...).

3. Restaurante C'An Burdo in Fornells in said to be THE place for the local lobster stew, oldest and best. It is right on the water in town. Personally, I think it's a tourist trap. The lobster stew was good (not the creamy, spud-filled affair we have here in New England), but I bet there are better places for it.

The famous lobster stew in Fornells.

4. Ses Fourquilles (C. Rovellada de Dalt, 20) in Mahon is my favorite place to eat in Menorca. It's so good we went two nights in a row. They serve small plates from a menu and have 20 or so specials listed on the blackboard every night. The food is fresh and imaginative, the staff is fun and the wines by the glass are tasty. There is one dish called patatas bravas that makes the best bar snack ever. It is simply fried squares of potato topped with fresh tomato sauce laced with garlic and basil. We also loved the avocado "cannelloni" with fresh raw Asian-flavored tuna inside. Tempura asparagus were heavenly. Likewise the fish tacos. Great food in a great atmosphere. Can't wait to return.

patatas bravas

Menorca is one of those hidden gems we hope does not get discovered anytime soon. It has a wonderful timelessness about it and there is also a sense of mystery and allure. For those who want to explore more, there is a great app called Menorca (look for the blue capital M) that will provide details about all the beaches, hiking, services, food and accommodations.

Thanks for visiting. On to Madrid next!

Spain, 2015: Part 1 --- Bilbao and San Sebastian

       In recent years, Spain has lost a bit of its shine as a tourist destination, at least in the US. This is an understandable but unfortunate phenomenon, at least to this observer. Sure, Madrid does not have the romantic and historical panache of a Paris, Rome or Venice, or, for that matter, the neuvo sexiness of a Prague or Reykjavik. And Spain has suffered a lot from what everyone calls "The Crisis." But travelers who overlook Spain now are missing out big time. Having just returned from a few weeks experiencing the artsy phoenix that is Bilbao, the foodie heaven in San Sebastian, the quietly breathtaking beauty of Menorca and the world class cosmopolitan fun of Madrid, and all at bargain prices, I'm here to tell you: go now and enjoy.

       At this writing the Euro is worth 1.11 USD, and of course it always costs to exchange, but this is a fairly good deal based on the historical relationship between these currencies. Traveling outside of peak summertime yields some reasonable airfares, and eating out in Spain can be inexpensive when based on tapas and small plates called pinxtos in Basque towns like San Sebastian.

       Bilbao is the largest municipality of the Basque region and has a population of about 1 million people. Originally an industrial city with an emphasis on iron ore and ship-building, the city began a true renaissance in 1997 with the completion of Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum. This was followed with additional architectural art, a concert hall, a metro system, and renewal projects. The city has become a business and service center. We saw lots of street cleaners and green spaces.

Bilboa's Guggenheim

Koonz's 40' "Puppy" made from fresh flowers is popular in selfies 

A visit to the Guggenheim is a must. And if you can splurge, consider having lunch at Neura, the museum's fancy restaurant just next door (www.neura.com). We indulged in the "9 products" lunch at 95E per person, and it was quite special. My favorite dish was a collection of five different small tomatoes that had been prepared differently, injected with infused oils and herbs. It was perhaps the most memorable meal of our trip, and the visit includes a visit to the kitchen where few extra treats are served (a tempura quail egg was delicious!).

Beautiful salad of greens, asparagus and avocado at Neura

 I can highly recommend accommodations at The Grand Hotel Domine Bilbao, which offers a sleek, modern design, and bar/ breakfast terrace that overlooks the Guggenheim. The hotel does not provide a free bottle of drinking water, however. [note: I find this maddening. In this day and age, any place of rest should include a bottle of spring water and wi-fi at no cost.] But otherwise, a fine place to stay.

It is a short drive from Bilbao to the coastal town of San Sebastian, maybe an hour and a half.  The Basque name for the town is Donostia, by the way. There are some town beaches worth visiting for a quick dip, and the Kuruaal Auditorioa presents world class music in an acoustically perfect environment (We saw the 80-piece Oslo Philharmonic Orchestra present a stunning performance of Tchaikovsky).

But for most visitors, San Sebastian is all about food. It is the second city in the world for Michelin stars per capita (behind Kyoto, Japan, cf. Wiki)  and two of the world's best restaurants can be found here (2013 ratings). For most of us, however, food in San Sebastian centers on pinxtos (say "pinchtos"). Wander into almost any bar/tavern in San Sebastian and you will be dazzled by an array of very high- class small plates that go from about $3 to about $10 per plate. Pair these with an excellent glass of local red (tinto) --- Rioja is nearby --- or the refreshing and delicious white called Txakoli (say "Chacoli") and you will be happy, guaranteed.

I highly recommend to you the group Pinxtos Hunting Tour done with San Sebastian Food (www.sansebastianfood.com). The tour has been recommended by international publications, is well-run, and a great social experience. At 95E per person, the tour turns out to be a great value. We had six stops, all the food/drink was arranged for us, and we felt like insiders in the know. As a bonus, our wonderful guide provided us with a summary of our experience by e-mail together with a cheesecake recipe and other recommendations for eating in the city. Absolutely genius!

Here is a summary, to whet your appetite:

-        Goiz Argi (Fermin Calbetón street)

o   Brocheta de gambas – Prawns skewer

o   Marijuli: Green peper, smoked salmon & smoked anchovy

o   Pimientos de Padrón & Gindillas – Green peppers (big and small ones)

o   Drink: White wine, Txakoli de Getaria

-        Bar Sport (Fermin Calbetón street)

o   Chipirón con vinagre de modena y salsa de ajo y perejil – Baby cuttlefish with Modena balsamic vinager and parsley and garlic sauce

o   Calamari 

o   Drink: White wine, Via Nova with Godello grape

-        Zeruko (Pescadería street)

o   La hoguera – Smoked cod with fine herbs mayonnaise and shot of liquid salad

o   Drink: White wine from Rueda región

§  Here you should also try ´La rosa´which is the main lobster one with the pink liquid we saw yesterday

-        Gandarias (31 de Agosto street) 

o   Solomillo - Sirloin steak

o   Jamon de bellota - Iberian ham 

o   Queso Idiazabal (de oveja Latxa)- Idiazabal cheese (from Latxa sheep) 

o   Drink: Red wine, Trus Roble from Ribera del Duero wine 

-        A Fuego Negro (31 de Agosto)

o   Aceitunas con vermuth – Olives with vermuth

o   MaKcobe – Mini burguer

o   Pajarito – Queal

o   Drink: Red wine, crianza from Rioja region

-        La Viña (31 de Agosto street)

o   The best cheesecake from the city

o   Drink: sweet red wine, Pedro Ximénez

Other nice bars to visit:

-        Nestor (Pescaderia street)

o   This is the bar I mentioned is well known for the steak, tomato salad, the pimientos de padrón and the tortilla (remember to go 30 mins before to book your piece!).

-        Casa Urola (Fermín Calbetón Street)

o   Vieira en salsa ajoblanco - Scallop in ajoblanco sauce

o   Tartaleta de hongos, queso de Idiazabal y piñones – Pastrey with fungus, Idiazabal cheese and pine nuts

o   Ensalada de tomate de temporada – Seasonal tomato salad

-        La Cuchara de San Telmo (off 31 de Agosto Street)

o   Foie gras con mostaza y mermelada de naranjo – Foie gras with mustard and orange jam

o   Carrilleras con salsa de hummus - Veal cheeks with hummus sauce (see photo below)

-        Borda Berri (Fermín Calbetón Street)

o   Salmorejo soup

o   Rissotto de Idiazabal – Idiazabal cheese risotto

o   Pulpo – octopus 

-        Atari (by Santa María Church)

o   Torrija (basque bread & butter pudding), carrilleras (veal cheeks)

-        Ganbara (San Jerónimo street)

o   Hongos (porccini & egg yolk), Calamares, Mini Croissants with ham, Txuleta (steak).

-        Txepetxa (Pescadería street)

o   Anchoa con arándanos (anchovy and blueberry), Anchoa con Huevas de Trucha (anchovy and trout eggs), Anchoa con aceituna (anchovy and black olives), Anchoa con Centollo (anchovy with spider crab) -> my favourite one! J

-        Sirimiri (Mayor street)

o   Secreto Ibérico (Porc)

-        La Mejillonera (Puerto street) 

o   It may not look that nice from the outside, but they have the best Patatas Bravas and Tigres (Mussels with spicy tomato sauce).

Pinxtos Bar

...and more Pinxtos

The killer veal cheek, my fave

There is really no bad food in San Sebastian. It seems the availability and options are so great that people are downright giddy. Everyone --- visitors and locals alike --- seems to be in a terrific mood almost all the time. They are happy to talk about their favorite small plates and share food hints with newbies.

Honestly --- and I realize the gravity of what I'm about to say --- I have never eaten better than in San Sebastian. The Michelin stars are almost superfluous. This is it. The Main Nerve. Food Heaven.

You don't want to miss it!

Come back and read the next installment on Menorca and Madrid. Thanks for looking in!

New York City

       I'm originally from Queens, so I guess that makes me a "native New Yorker." Once or twice a year I love visiting "the City" as New Yorkers call it. My method is to find a reasonable hotel in Manhattan for a few days (I suggest the Guest Quarters chain as a good value), take the Limoliner (www.limoliner.com) from Boston, see a show, visit one or two good restaurants and a museum, maybe do a little shopping, and return home.

     A few weeks ago I traveled down with tickets to see Book of Mormon (hilarious) and take in the exhibit of Deccan Indian crafts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Met is spectacular and sprawling, and worth a half day visit. Its roof garden is lovely and offers a view of Central Park. The museum shop is also excellent.

     For my splurge meal I took Damon's advice and went to Cosme (http://www.cosmenyc.com). This restaurant, headed up by Chef Enrique Olvera, is inspired by modern Mexican cuisine, which is gaining world popularity. This is NOT Tex Mex, or anything like the burritos and tacos one finds everywhere. The menu is full of decidedly thoughtful, inventive and flavorful creations using fresh ingredients. For those who enjoy mezcal as much as I do, Cosme offers a wonderful and varied list including Vago and a new discovery, San Andreas Alipus.

    I must say the crispy octopus with hazelnut mole, pickled potatoes and watercress ($28) was superb and memorable:

I also ordered a mushroom and squash barbacoa for $26. (not pictured)  that was not worth the price by a long shot, the only downer in an otherwise great meal. Finally, for dessert, the corn meringue with sweet roasted corn filling was one of the best desserts I've enjoyed in recent memory:

     Cosme is highly recommended. A reservation is necessary.

      Nobu Fifty-seven is the first uptown location for Chef Nobu Matsuhisa's Japanese Dining Dynasty. I must say, I was a bit disappointed, and the reviews I just read on Yelp seem to confirm my worst fears: I came to Nobu ten years too late.

     The fluke was melt-in-the-mouth tasty and wonderful quality, but the preparation was simply a drop of oil and slice of chile. The short rib presentation that evening was in the form of two tiny "tacos" (that seemed like a Chang rip-off) and were just not remarkable. The servers seemed to hover, the portions small and the meal was expensive. I'll pass next time.

     By all means, visit New York and enjoy all it has to offer. It's one of the greatest cities on the planet.

New Orleans and Jazz Fest 2015

       The first weekend of The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Fest 2015 was not pretty, but it was great fun. My fave band Wilco, Jimmy Cliff, The Who, Jon Cleary and other world class musicians played on numerous stages to bring the groove to an enthusiastic crowd. Fantastic food was available at all times for small money (more about that later). A really good vibe prevailed with lots of smiles, even the rain. Yes, as always, Jazz Fest offered some great gifts.

 

John Legend at Jazz Fest

Maybe the greatest gift of these is a stay in the city of New Orleans. It is a beautiful, decadent and slightly decayed city. Tennessee Williams famously said: "America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and NEW ORLEANS. Everywhere else is Cleveland." After this trip, I’m thinking maybe he had a point. NOLA has lots of friendly people, a very unique cultural heritage, and musical talent that can go toe to toe with any city, anywhere on Earth.

Then there's that food --- the melding of Southern, Cajun, and Creole traditions that creates a truly heavenly cuisine. Good food is so easy to come by in New Orleans that it’s almost impossible not to indulge. Gluttony then becomes compounded by the incredibly high caloric ingredients in many of those delicious snax --- that chicken and sausage gumbo, that crawfish strudel (my vote for “Best of Fest”), that sticky caramel cake with sour cream ice cream. The late, great New Orleans chef Austin Leslie once told my ex, “Well, honey, we ain’t supposed to live forever!”

One thing I learned this trip is how much I missed New Orleans cooking. You really can’t get it in the Boston area (at least not since the Cajun Yankee closed in the mid-80s). If you could, the fish would undoubtedly be frozen and the shrimp headless. No, no. Best not to mess with a good thing. Get yourself down to the Big Easy and take these reviews and suggestions fresh from my trip:

1.) JAZZ FEST FOOD: It is remarkably good, fairly inexpensive, and well-worth deep exploration. For many years Crawfish Monica --- a crawfish and fusilli pasta in a crawfish cream sauce --- was queen. The Twins brought up a massive quantity of the stuff for their 40^th birthday some years ago and everyone raved. But there are new contenders. Now I nominate the Crawfish Strudel as top dish, although Softshell Crab Po’ Boy and Crawfish Sacks (crawfish in a creamy mixture in a thin dough “sack”) are strong persuaders. All of my “krewe” deeply loves and pays daily homage to the combo plate of Seafood Au Gratin, Artichoke and Spinach casserole and Sweet Potato Pone. I believe this last dish was $14, a high price due to its three food components. And for dessert, I like the Aztec Chocolate Gelato with a single espresso poured over it (a nice “pick-me-up” while everyone else is drinking beer). For potables, I go for the herbal iced tea or bottled water, or maybe the strawberry lemonade for a bit of sweetness. I don't believe any other music festival can compare its food to New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Fest. 

2. FELIX’S. In the French Quarter Felix’s Restaurant and Oyster Bar on Iberville (and Acme Oyster under the same ownership) offers heavenly bivalves. For 70 years this hallowed eatery a mere block off Bourbon Street has been Oyster Heaven. They shuck ‘em right there at the bar, so you can belly up and graze on raw oysters to your tummy’s contentment. However, I strongly suggest that you try the roasted oysters, which are gently roasted in the broiler with a bit of butter, parsley and garlic. The fried oysters are also amazing, if more commonly available in other places. You can also enjoy very tasty gumbo, crawfish, and NOLA seafood faves with reasonable prices and informal surroundings. It’s a must.

Oven roasted oysters at Felix. Delish!

3. SAVEUR. Over on Magazine Street, chef Dominique Machquet has been furthering his skills and reputation for the last five years at his restaurant Saveur. He garnered praise from local and national press in the late 90s, including Esquire and Bon Appetit, which named his pre-Katrina project Dominique’s one of the top 7 restaurants in the country in ’98. Chef Dominique also had the distinction of serving Nelson Mandela his first meal outside of prison.

Anyway, Saveur is a mainstay of New Orleans fine dining in a fairly casual (and fairly noisy) atmosphere. However, I must report that I was somewhat disappointed. Service was spotty and slow. And even though the fish crudo small plates were tasty and creative, my main dish, a soft shell crab special, looked better than it tasted. There was nothing special or especially flavorful in the preparation, and it arrived tepid.

Soft Shell Crab at Saveur

4. PECHE. My favorite meal in New Orleans this year was at Peche, a New Orleans seafood restaurant located at the corner of Magazine and Julia Streets in the Warehouse District. The mission of the eatery -- to create fresh NOLA seafood dishes with “live fire” --- succeeds admirably, and has recently coveted two James Beard awards. The space is clean and modern, with a lovely bar.

Start out with some of the raw fish apps, like gulf shrimp or smoked tuna dip. My main course was the baked drum in a meyer lemon broth with young green peas (which tasted like edamame). It was superb. Don’t miss the vegetable sides, like the oh-so-tasty cauliflower gratin. Desserts are also wonderful. Do yourself a favor, make a res and head down to Peche for a wonderful meal.

Baked Drum Fish in Lemon Broth and Fresh Peas. The Winner!

Cauliflower gratin and beets in background

5. IGNATIUS EATERY. Restaurants like Ignatius Eatery prove that in many cases, simple succeeds admirably. Located at 3121 Magazine Street, this plain but comfortable eatery takes its name from the fictional character Ignatius Reilly, from the wonderful book Confederacy of Dunces by John Kennedy Toole. Around the restaurant are quotations from the book, and there is a small but serviceable bar in the rear.

One in a series of quotes from Confederacy of Dunces

Drinks are certainly reasonable (the NOLA tradition, Pimm’s Cup, for $6), and the classic creole entrees, like Red Beans and Rice with Smoked Sausage, are delicious and inexpensive. We also enjoyed chicken and sausage gumbo, fried green tomatoes, shrimp remoulade, and shrimp with stone ground grits. For dessert, my friends were fighting over the last spoonfuls of Bananas Foster with ice cream. All of the dishes were excellent and easy on the wallet. Service was friendly and quick. This is a real find!

6. Restaurant R'evolution. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto have teamed up to open a beautiful and high class destination restaurant attached to the Royal Sonesta Hotel at Iberville and Bourbon Streets in the Quarter. The food is generally excellent. One should not miss the beer battered crab beignets ($14) or the Creole Snapping Turtle Soup with Deviled Eggs. And my Crawfish-stuffed Redfish Napoleon was imaginative and superb, if a tad expensive ($35). My neighbor ordered the paneed veal chop with warm crab salad; it was enormous (and at $49, could feed two people easily). I ate dinner at a counter facing the kitchen, which was interesting and educational. However, as a single diner I felt somewhat under-served, which is to say sometimes ignored.

Crawfish-stuffed Redfish Napoleon

A Few Words About Preservation Hall:

Everyone knows (or should know, at least) about New Orleans Preservation Hall, founded in 1961 as a touring band, venue and center to honor the jazz heritage of the city. In 2012 The Preservation Hall Foundation was created as a non-profit here, and Preservation Hall has extended its mission to do outreach, education and extend its touring schedule. Its work is all about bringing the traditions of the jazz culture to people near and far. Preservation Hall deserves everyone’s respect and support. It is sacred ground in the Jazz World.

While in NOLA this time, some friends and I were invited to Preservation Hall for a cultivation event, and learned something about its rich history and exciting new programs. We also enjoyed some amazing trad jazz from its band.

Getting ready to "second line" the band at Preservation Hall

Please see: http://www.preshallfoundation.org/who-we-are-2/ for more information, and please consider a contribution to this worthy cause.

Huatulco and Back to Oaxaca

            I guess you could say it’s becoming a habit. For the last two winter holiday seasons, that is just after Christmas until just after the new year, my lovah and I head to the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Last year we visited Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca city. This year, we decided to enjoy four days in the smartly- and gently- developed group of bays called Bahias de Huatulco or just plain Huatulco (say wah-tool’-co), followed by a good stint of six days in Oaxaca (wah-ha’-ka) city, the capital of the state.

First Stop: Huatulco

There’s a lot to love about Huatulco. Some13 miles of jagged coastline that  include nine bays and 26 beaches, the area was conceived of by the Mexican government as a planned tourist area. However, as explained to me by my birding guide, Alberto, the government learned from all of its mistakes in Cancun and the “Riviera.” Huatulco has had a water treatment plant for almost three decades, so waste and grey water is not dumped into the ocean, but recycled for irrigation. Roads were planned thoughtfully. The airport is accessible and very pleasant. And there are two small towns – Santa Cruz near the marina and La Crucecita, which centers around a small park with shops, restaurants and a few colonial-style buildings.

But the very best thing about the Huatulco is that it feels decidedly Mexican. In fact, 80% of the tourists visiting here are from Mexico.  It feels culturally different from Puerto Escondido, which has a surfer social dimension to it. Nothing wrong with that, mind you. But we enjoyed Huatulco a lot more.

The food in Huatulco is very good, especially the sea food. Of course, it cannot stand up to comparisons with the world-class cuisine of Oaxaca city, but delicious, fresh food can be found in most eateries. We enjoyed Antijitos Los Gallos Huatulco on Carrizal Street immensely. Large portions of a chicken pozole soup, pounded beef fried with salad and avocado, pork ribs, wonderful fruit drinks and a shot of mezcal for me. It was not fancy, but so tasty! The house chili sauces (two red, one green) were superb. The prices were so reasonable, I almost felt guilty. 

lunch at Antijitos Los Gallos

Mom cooks at Antijitos

We also had very good meals at El Grillo Maninero and Sabor Oaxaca, the former featuring wonderful octopus (I’m an octo guy); the latter with a bit better service and ambiance. Everyone seems to love Terra Cotta at Mision de Los Arcos in Crucecita. It is ranked #1 by TripAdvisor. The food is, in fact, very good, at least for breakfast (when we ate there). Egg dishes like huevos rancheros were a specialty. The dining room is upscale and air-conditioned. My only complaint was service, which was incredibly slow due to the crowd of people lining up outside. For a wonderful coffee stop or snack in the Santa Cruz area, the Café Huatulco appears to be an enormous 2-level kiosk is in the middle of the park. The owner, Salvador, makes excellent food and local coffee, and the ambiance is relaxing.

We stayed right in the town of Crucecita at Mision de Los Arcos, ranked #1 by TripAdvisor It was fine, really, but nothing very special. Sherry and Sam (the owners) were on site a lot and responsive to any problems. We had ants coming in to the bathroom at one point and the owners had the problem attended to immediately. The room was large enough and had a sunny terrace for sitting and drying clothes. The room rate was very reasonable, the location was central, just off the main park, and the staff was helpful. But wi-fi was iffy, and our room, facing the street, was a bit noisy. Unfortunately, there was cat poo on the marble stairs one night when we came in.

Mision de Los Arcos was not on or near the ocean and does not have a pool, so we de-camped for our last night to stay at Secrets, an all-inclusive all-adult resort on the beach. The location is superb, fronting a beautiful, clean bay great for swimming. There are five differently themed restaurants, three pools (one with a swim-up bar), five themed restaurants, spa, etc. etc. Food and drink (including top shelf booze) is unlimited. The rooms all look out onto the bay and have a Jacuzzi. There is entertainment, soft sports and activities. It is very expensive.

Secrets, a view from the Sky Bar

I’m not convinced I would return to Secrets, at least during the holidays. Besides the heavenly rates and crowds of Canadians on package trips, the check-in experience was awful. The food is good but not terrific, and we just don’t drink enough to make it worthwhile (but others do, for sure). Finally, to be frank, I find it hard to tell people I stayed at a resort called “Secrets;” it sounds too much like something out of The Bachelor. If you want an all-inclusive that welcomes kids, the same company operates Dreams just a ways down the beach. Both names are so unfortunate.

If you’re interested in birding or cultural tours out of Huatulco, I suggest Alberto Espana Chavez (Homie Tours). Alberto has a Facebook page and specialize in birding at the state park, which is lovely. Also, his proprietary Three Levels Tour takes you to three different areas including the foothills of the mountains. His prices are quite reasonable.

Back to Oaxaca

The highway between Huatulco and Oaxaca is still under construction, but even after completion it will still be a long haul of what, six or seven hours. The airports in Oaxaca are clean, modern and easy to negotiate. We have flown Aerotucan twice now and think this is the way to go if you can afford it.

We stayed at the B&B Bugambilias on Calle Reforma for the second time. Adriana and her family do a fantastic job of making people feel welcome. There is a tasty two-course breakfast every morning and the location in the Centro is prime. The prices are very reasonable, and you can get a 10% discount for paying in cash (which is worthwhile if staying more than a couple days).  If you want to go a bit more upscale, the Quinta Real in the centro looks pretty deluxe and has its own pool. We may consider this next time.

Before anything else, a plug for The Man, Alvin Starkman. Here is a friendly and professional one-man course in the local art of mezcal, the deliciously addictive spirit of certain agave cacti. As an act of service and generosity, Alvin will bottle, label and seal mezcal his clients buy. Beyond his Mezcal Education tours, Alvin is a great doorway to the inside of Oaxacan culture through craft artisans, markets, and just hanging out with him. His prices are quite reasonable. Check him out at Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca .

Old school clay pot distillation, on tour with Alvin

Oaxacan countryside with agave 

We also visited a local clay pot artisan who Alvin knows. It was a revelation just watching her work.

Food in Oaxaca is always a treat. It is becoming a culinary destination.

Our first night in Oaxaca was New Years’ Eve. I had written to our favorite restaurant, Los Danzantes, to see what they were offering. It turned out to be a great move. They had a special six-course meal with all the drink you wanted, a performance by acrobats that reminded me of Cirque du Soleil, masks, toys and decorations, and their own fireworks. Since the restaurant courtyard is open-air, they were able to put on a real pyrotechnical extravaganza. 

Acrobats for New Year's Eve at Los Danzantes

Best of all, we were seated with a wonderful, Mexican family who spoke some English, and we became fast friends. It was one of the best NYEs in recent memory. Not content with one Los Danzantes experience, we returned for lunch one day. Simply superb. I suggest the local stuffed hierba santa, chile rilleno, and candied pork ribs.

One of the elegant, new kids on the block is La Pitiona, (Allende 108 in the Centro) is the vision of former El Bulli chefJosé Manuel Baños Rodríguez. The food features local products and spins interesting takes on traditional favorites. The 5-course tasting menu is $40. per person and is very worthwhile. The kitchen allowed us to vary some dishes so we could try more things. We had a dish called The cow that wanted to be a goat.  There were tortillas made from agave and other non-corn grains. One dish came to the table under glass with an orange vapor that puffed for a second when the glass is lifted off, and revealed a perfectly cooked piece of fish. The place feels upscale without being too formal, and it has a minimalist design vibe. A friend of mine said it was pretentious, but I don’t agree. I would certainly go back, and recommend it to you.

We returned to Biznaga, at 512 Manuel Garcia Virgil in the centro. We have friends who were once fans of this eatery, but have been alienated by bad service. Our solution: sit at the bar. It’s easy to flag a server and get what you need. The food and mescal here are very good and not too expensive. Local specialties change every, but try candelas (with zucchini flowers) anything with mole, and great desserts. This place is a must.

Other things to try:

Zumba in the park on Sunday mornings, 9:30-11:00 am

The Museum of Oaxacan Culture --- entrance just to the north of the Santo Domingo Church. A really great building with a view on the botanical gardens interesting exhibits make a worthwhile stop for a few hours.

Benito Juarez Market – just off the zocalo, sells all manner of everyday goods and foods. A bit overwhelming, but soak in the local color.