Resort Sociability -- Lost or Left Behind?

       This post is meant as an inquiry into this question: in a civilized world, to what extent does the international traveler staying at a hotel or resort have an obligation to be sociable? 

       During recent travels in Asia, I observed at several resorts a trend toward decidedly chilly social relations among my fellow guests, especially people under, say, 45 years old. I noticed that many guests staying at these resorts or lodges seem uninterested in making small talk, exchanging pleasantries or even saying hello to people they see time and again over several days or more.  Left to their own social devices and without any compulsion, most of the younger couples preferred to look away or simply mind their own beeswax. Voluntary conversation and social engagement with near-strangers is becoming a rare thing generally. And it appears to me that the "vibe" at many high end travel accommodations is suffering because of it.

       It wasn't always so. In my parents' halcyon days of travel, social intercourse was part of the pleasure. Meeting new people provided an opportunity to compare notes, offer suggestions, even make friends. Does that still hold true now that everyone has a smartphone with an international SIM card? I'm not sure.

     Maybe part of the equation is where you are and why you are there. One of the Asian resorts I'm thinking of was a bit isolated. Maybe some of the socially private folks were on their honeymoon, or just wanted a break from people. Maybe that's why they looked away from me with dread when I asked if they enjoyed their dinner.  

       In complete contrast to these recent experiences in Asia, I can recall conversing and interacting with every guest at an eco-lodge in Costa Rica a few years ago. Each night a group of about a dozen guests, all ages, would all gather at the bar before dinner to exchange photos, talk about animals we saw that day, and suggest itineraries for the next day. Come to think of it, I'm still in touch with some of these folks.  And I think these informal social gatherings, which continued on to "family-style" service at dinner, really enhanced the experience for all of us. 

       Is it a generational thing? Is it just the way we're brought up? Is it climatic?

       Last trip to Paris, Cheryl and I were at Rino, a wonderful new-school restaurant Tony Bourdain raved about in his food/travel series. (It was superb. Find more info here: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1868664-Reviews-Rino-Paris_Ile_de_France.html ) Anyway, we saw a woman about our age eating her dinner alone at a table nearby, and we heard her speak English to her server. Cheryl promptly invited this lady to sit and dine with us. Not something I would do personally, but I loved her for that. And it turned out to be a really good experience for all of us. 

     Look, I'm not asking for a communal experience at a resort. People spend good money for their vacations, and I respect their right to privacy if they want it. But let's be civilized. Let's have enough in the way of social chops to enable us to look at someone, smile and say hello. It's a win-win proposition, costs nothing, and makes for a much better atmosphere. And travel experience.     

      

New Accommodations at Tugu Lombok

       I am a big fan of the Tugu resort in Lombok, especially for those who want to get away from it all, and relax in the lap of luxury. The resort has been favorably reviewed here and in my monterisi in mondo indo blog, as well as Conde Naste and Trip Advisor (2014 Excellence Award). It is located on the northwest coast of Lombok, on the incredibly beautiful Sire Beach. I stayed there for the second time this past May.

       While exploring the area next to the current resort we came upon some interesting new construction, and poked around a few of the buildings, which seemed about 75% complete. There we came upon an unassuming gentleman, who also seemed interested in the new work. After some polite chatting, we learned that this man was Bepak Anhar, the owner of the Tugu chain, and chief visionary and designer these new units. A pleasant and soft-spoken man, Bepak Anhar offered to show us the new model unit, which was almost completed and furnished. He called on his phone for the key, and one of the managers came running (literally) with it.

     The new accommodations (maybe six of them?) are right on the beach and feature a Chinese village theme. They are furnished with beautiful antiques that mix opulence and whimsy in equal measure. Black lacquer and carved Buddhas, beautifully carved doors and details. The room we saw was larger than the Aloon-Aloon villa we rented. There was an individual infinity pool that looked out to the beach. Very romantic and decidedly deluxe. We asked the price tag for a stay here. Bepak Anhar said about $800. USD per night, at least three times the cost of a different accommodation there. 

      The units may be completed by now and are worth an inquiry by any high rollers. I would enjoy hearing from anyone who stays in one of them.

Back to Bali and Lombok / 2014

       Indonesia stays with you after you've left it, like a haunting melody, a fabulous novel or a beautiful woman.  It is so varied, so exotic, so evocative, that it refuses to be forgotten. I found that Indo returns to my memory over and over again, even more so now that I have visited her twice.

       Cheryl and I traveled to Bali, Yogyakarta and Lombok this past Spring, for the last two weeks in May and the first week of June. For me, my second time; Cheryl's first visit. Our itinerary included three days in Seminyak, Bali and four days in Ubud, Bali.

      I have written extensively about my three months in Indonesia, both in these posts and in an entire blog called Monterisi In Mondo Indo found here: http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com
For our purposes now,  I want to only cover new ground, and hit on some new recommendations.
If you want a bit more detail, try Trip Advisor, and especially the reviews of damariscottalakegirl. She is brilliant!:)

      Here we go, then, seven highlights of Bali:

      1. The Semaya Seminyak. Choose your own glowing adjective, it will probably fit ---- opulent, gorgeous, restful, luxe, friendly --- all of these describe Semaya Seminyak.
                                             

Facing pool, ocean and dining area

The Semaya is centrally located in Seminyak, has modern amenities and a great beach. We scored a pool villa which included our own rather large pool, a large bedroom, living area and oversized bathroom with two sinks. As far as personal space is concerned, ours at the Semaya was the finest accommodation I've ever stayed in (and I write this with all due gravitas). The staff is very helpful but never intrusive. My wife raved about the spa. Breakfast was sumptuous. Highly recommended.

       2. Urchin Restaurant, Seminyak. Very close to the Semaya on Jl. Laksmana #22, this restaurant specializes in interesting preparations of local seafood. It is not overly formal, but not a seafood shack by any means. Interesting modern space, open kitchen, superb cocktails (mine with basil and gin), and the wonderful Kathy hosting. Prices are reasonable.

       3. Pura Tanah Lot. One of the most visited temples in all of Indonesia, Pura Tanah Lot is one of the seven sea temples said to form a chain around the Balinese coast (Wiki). It was built in the 16th or 17th century and is said to be guarded by snakes who live in a fresh-water spring under the entrance. It is perhaps overly-touristed, but the photo ops are great and it makes a beautiful and mysterious scene, especially at sunset and sunrise.
                                                 

        4. Ubud Palace. The cultural center of Ubud is also, almost parenthetically, one of the most beautiful sights in Bali. The palace has lovely traditional Balinese houses and temples, all with superb architectural detail  It was founded in the 19th century and remains fully functional and well-maintained. The traditional market is across the street and Ibu Oka, home of the killer the roast suckling pig lunch sits kitty corner across another street.
                                                                         

            5. Lello Lello. It's just a gelato spot opposite the Semaya at 21 Jalan Kayu Ara in Seminyak, but the flavors are delicious, the place is clean and welcoming, and it's a lot cheaper than Italy. Everyone loves the salted caramel, but the local fruit flavors are quite refreshing. The gelato girls are sooo cute!

            6. Bicycling With Bali Eco Tours. My second time and I'm ready to go again. My original review from March, 2013 is here: http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com/2013/03/ubud-finale.html. This is still a wonderful deal at about $38. for a full day. You get a bit of exercise, meet nice people, make five or six cultural stops, and get two excellent meals. Pick-up and drop-off from your hotel. It's the best.

Breakfast view

       7.  Local Dance from Lotus Cafe.  Traditional dance is part of everyday life in Ubud. It is very available and very inexpensive. The new tourist office will sell tickets in the $7. range to dance at one of the local venues. But for a special experience, I suggest you go to Lotus Cafe on Jalan Raya Ubud. Honestly, the food here is not that great. Cafe Wayan, for example, has better food. But for a reasonable extra price, you can dine and watch dance in a very exotic lotus pond, and the visuals are pretty special. Unfortunately, hard to photograph:
                     

                                       
Our table was right at the black gate. The performance was beautiful. The total cost of dinner for two and the show was about $50. USD.

       There is so much to Bali, we have just begun to scratch the surface. There are incredible local crafts including some of the finest silver work I've seen. We also had the chance to visit some temple festivals during a Hindu holiday, and that was quite special. The delightful and knowledgeable Su took us out for an incredible day looking at birds and nature as part of a Bali Birdwalk tour.

       Here's hoping you enjoy these posts and all of your journeys.