San Sebastian, 2017

We first visited San Sebastian in the early fall of 2015, (see the original blog post here: http://spybirdtravel.blogspot.com.es/search?updated-min=2015-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2016-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=6 ) and we could not wait to get back. 

Being there in January this year afforded us a very special and unexpected opportunity --- Tamborrada 2017. This is the most important holiday of the year in San Sebastian (which is also called Donostia, if you don't know), and it is a huge deal. The origins have something to do with the expulsion of Napoleon's French army and the part played by local chefs harassing the French occupying force by beating pots and pans. You can check out the Wiki version here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamborrada
So nowadays, on Tamborrada, everything shuts down for 24 hours so that everyone --- I mean everyone --- can march in parades, gather in the main square, and play traditional songs, mostly on drums. All of the town's famous eating societies dress up to the nines as chefs and soldiers. Kids have school marching uniforms. Each group has a 24-hour itinerary that calls for marching and drumming to any number of points in the city, playing a few tunes, being rewarded with food, wine and beer, and chilling a few minutes before getting back into marching mode. Forget sleeping or avoiding the festivities --- those are not options. It's a Basque Blast, and you're all in.

I learned from locals that people who work out of the city and students studying abroad often return to San Sebastian to go out with friends and march on this holiday. And it is apparently a great honor to be invited to a friend's gastronomic society to march. The locals love Tamborrada; they get misty-eyed when they talk about it.

Fortunately, during this highest of holidays, we were staying at the ultra-fabulous Hotel Maria Cristina http://www.hotel-mariacristina.com. If you go to SS, please don't consider staying anywhere else. This rococo jewel is elegant and comfortable, and so visually pleasing in every way. We were upgraded by the manager Styge to a suite, and we were almost giddy when we saw it. The service is first rate, and everyone is very kind and helpful. Yes, this is a splurge, but it is one you should make. You won't regret it, and YOLO.

Back to the story... The Maria Cristina offered its guests a special dinner event at the hotel. It began at 8:30 pm and ended at 3:00 am the next morning, and included a fine dinner with Basque specialties, a visit from one of the gastronomic club drum corps, a DJ with dancing, drinks, of course drumsticks and a wooden drum board. It was great fun, very festive and the natives were friendly. If you made it to 3 am, you got churros and chocolate, or garlic soup. (Not sure I get the garlic soup part, but I did not last that late anyway.)

Two friends get ready to march

In the main square, action central

Head chef leads the drumming at Maria Cristina

Tamborrada party in full swing

School kids in marching regalia

Many things in life are never as good the second time. Repeat food experiences often suffer from this phenomenon; maybe you've noticed. Well, not so with the group Pinxtos Hunting Tour done with San Sebastian Food (www.sansebastianfood.com). The tour has been recommended by international publications, is well-run, and a great social experience. At 95E per person, the tour also turns out to be a great value. Once again, we had six stops, all the food/drink was arranged for us, and we felt like insiders in the know. As a bonus, our wonderful local guide provided us with a summary of our experience by e-mail together with a cheesecake recipe and other recommendations for eating in the city. This is not to be missed, and if you can somehow get Lourdes as your guide, you will have a blast. 

3 fave pinxtos: roast pig with pimento and herb oil, "cod bonfire" with
herb aioli and liquid salad, sunchokes with foie & hazelnuts. All so good!

Here is the list of stops from our pinxtos tour on January 18:

-Gorriti, by La Bretxa market….Anchoas Rebozadas (battered anchovies with red pepper), Txistorra (local fresh chorizo), Txakoli (local white wine) and Beronia crianza from Rioja Alta.

-Urola, Calle Fermín Calbetón…Pulpo (octopus), Alcachofas (artichokes with almond praliné), Gilda (traditional pintxo with pickled pepper, olives and anchovy), Champis (mushrooms with mashed potato), Bolo Godello from Valdeorras and Amézola crianza from Rioja Alavesa.

-Zeruko, Calle Pescadería…La Hoguera (cod bonfire), Anguila Ahumada (smoked eel), Alcachofa con Foie (golden artichoke with foie and nuts), Tomatito (false baby tomato with tuna), Enate Chardonnay from Somontano region and Marqués de Murrieta Rioja.

-Txuleta, Plaza de la Trinidad…Pimiento Relleno de Rabo ( piquillo pepper stuffed with oxtail), Croquetas de Txuleta (steak croquettes) and Finca Resalso red wine from Ribera de Duero.

-Sirimiri, Calle Mayor…Cordero (slow cooked lamb) and Remelluri crianza from Rioja.

-Atari, by Santa María Church…Torrija (basque french toast), Cava, Pedro Ximénez sweet sherry and Orujo de Hierbas (herbs liquor).

When I last wrote about San Sebastian in 2015, I went out on a limb, and proclaimed that in my mundo, this town has the best food I've ever experienced. I'm doubling down. San Sebastian is food mecca, and you don't need to go Michelin star to eat like a queen. Note that it's great in the off season. Hope you are inspired to get out there. It's a bit of traveling, because there is no direct access from outside Europe, but it's well worth the effort.

Madrid, 2017

We're mad about Madrid. For many American tourists, it is Europe's forgotten capital city. But why? It has several world class museums, fantastic green space, and some wonderful eating adventures. There is a handy Metro if you don't want to use taxis. And right now, the Euro is about 1.1 USD; that's a big improvement over recent history. Off-season in Europe is a beautiful thing for savvy travelers.

Last trip to Madrid was 2015 and I posted about it September 12, 2015. You can read the review here: http://spybirdtravel.blogspot.com.es/search?updated-min=2015-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2016-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=6 .

 This time, we skipped The Prado but went to the Thyssen-Bornemizma (or simply "The Thyssen"), and enjoyed a great exhibit on "The Intimate Renoir," some masterworks by Hopper, Lichtenstein, Dali and others, and even a few boxes by my childhood neighbor, Joseph Cornell. The Thyssen's web site is here: http://www.museothyssen.org/en/thyssen/home

Dali's "Girl at the Window"

There's a pretty good cafeteria/restaurant at The Thyssen also.

The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia http://www.museoreinasofia.es or The Reina Sofia, is an absolute tour de force, especially in the area of 20th century art of various media. Picasso's Guernica is here, as is a continuous showing of Bunuel's Andalusian Dog. Post-modern and surrealism are well-represented. The space in the main venue is clean and un-cluttered. Check the museum's web site for "associated" activities that include film, dance and lecture.

The Reina Sofia also boasts a fine restaurant called Arzabel. We plucked up our courage and tried the recommended sea anemones  (locally called ortiguillas) which the waiter told us were electric, but luckily for us, were not. They are fried and taste like a savory clam. The artichoke hearts, fresh and in season, were delicious also. For some reason, the restaurant serves butter from a giant barrel tub. It must hold five or six pounds of butter. It's not clear why a restaurant would use the same butter for everyone, but they must, I guess.

tasty ortiguillas

As you can see, we've already steered away from culture and into food....

I highly recommend Ten Con Ten on Calle Ayala 6. http://www.restaurantetenconten.com . It is so good, we had to go twice. Call my girl Adela and reserve a table so you're not disappointed. This is not very fancy, but somewhat trendy with 30-40-something date crowd. The second night, staff seemed a bit friendlier; maybe that's only natural. Some suggestions:  the burrata and strawberry salad, the artichoke hearts with spinach and potato puree, and the osso buco cannelloni. The oxtail meatball is also surprisingly awesome. Desserts are also well worth your consideration.

Ten Con Ten: burrata salad, 'chokes and cannelloni

The other major revelation from this trip to Madrid was a fine Mexican Restaurant called Punto Mx, where Chef Roberto Ruiz has earned his first Michelin star. http://puntomx.es . It is simply superb. This restaurant sources almost all of its product from its own organic crops, they make their own tortillas, and they show imagination and loving care in all preparations. As an added bonus, Punto Mx has a killer mezcal collection ( I enjoyed del Marguey Tempextrate for the first time) and "The Mezcal Lab" upstairs for drinks and small bites. This is where I would live if Madrid were my home. Eating at Punto Mx is fun and unpretentious. Guacamole made at the table is fabulous. The braised duck enchilada is to die for, as are the panuchos. But here is the surprise: one of the best desserts I have ever eaten. It was lemon gelatin cubes, with soft, slightly sweet avocado balls that burst in your mouth, sweet corn flautas, and homemade coconut ice cream. It doesn't sound so incredible, but trust me, it tastes perfect after a great Mexican meal!

Incredibly delicious dessert at Punto MX.

I was knocked out by Punto MX. No chef in Oaxaca has anything on Chef Ruiz.

For a really different dining experience, Castafiore on Calle Marques de Monasterio includes opera performances by very talented waitstaff. I learned that they have professional singing gigs when not at the restaurant. They act out little scenes around random tables and put the music right in your face. The effect is pretty cool.

Unfortunately, dining at Castafiore means you have to eat their food, and that's really difficult to do. The food is, in my humble opinion, well, horrible. Even a ham bocadillo with some cheese would have been better than the frozen fish in unidentified green sauce and baby eels. Couldn't eat my dinner, but enjoyed the show, the ebullient owner, the conga line through the kitchen that ended the night. So is it worth 40 euros? Not sure. I don't regret the evening, I just wish Castafiore would choose there or four items -- even pasta and tomato sauce would do, and try not to do cuisine. They can't.

The Rastro, Madrid's weekly flea market, is a lot of fun. It happens on Sundays at  Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores. Trash and treasure, antiques, junktiques and crafts, it's all fun to browse through.

Rastro treasures

If you go to The Rastro, you must grab a sandwich at Martina Cocina. Absolutely fantastic homemade bread, salads, empanadas, desserts etc. Definitely a great place for brunch.

Finally a hotel review. We stayed at The Hotel Orfila on Calle Orfila, close to Colon Metro stop. This is a Relais & Chateaux property, which is always a sign of high quality. The staff is very friendly, and when we pointed out that we were never told there would be a charge for breakfast (and they satisfied themselves that this info did not appear on our booking), they removed one of the three days' charge. The rooms are roomy and the location is great. My only complaint is that the property is a little tired. I would probably try another hotel next time.

Triposo, the essential app

       Using the Triposo.com app is an absolute joy and essential travel tool. This Swiss Army knife for the traveler allows you access to a world of information about most cities and major travel destinations at any time, through your smart phone, even without wi-fi.
        Let's say you are traveling in Andalusia, southern Spain. Simply:
        1. download the Triposo app;
        2. search for any download "Andalusia, Spain" while you do have wi-fi.
That's it. While traveling in, say, Sevilla, you can track your own location, research sights, food & drink, banks, and things to do near your location, and find the quickest route to get where you want to go. It actually tracks your progress moving from one place to another. There is historical information, hours for businesses, pictures, everything you need to get around.
One small fault: all of the restaurant reviews seem very similar, for some reason, and very general in nature. But the one to five star system seems pretty reliable.
         This is revolutionary stuff. No more maps or guides. No more getting lost. It's all right there in your phone.
          Triposo rocks. Give it a try!