BOTSWANA and ZIMBABWE 2018

Just about everyone I met during our recent vacation in Africa agrees that planning  for safari requires lots of consideration, research and money. Even if one decides to simply put the trip in the hands of a travel agent or outfitter, there are still many choices to be made. What area do you want to visit? What are you hoping to see there? What kind of experience are you looking for? What kind of accomodations and food? Given that this is “bucket list” travel, the kind of thing we don’t do every day, and considering the high price tag, choices must be made wisely. 

We’ve just returned from our second safari trip. In 2005 we went to Tanzania and had an awesome adventure exploring Serengeti and the Ngorogoro Crater with a wonderful guide named Peter. We chose an outfitter based on price and its web site (and perhaps its NH location), and we lucked out.

This time we began planning for an April, 2018 trip to Botswana and Zimbabwe back in July 2017. We have had a trusted travel agent for the last ten or so years, so we gave her our wish list and some descriptors and began the process of shaping the trip. In the end, after trip insurance and inter-Africa flights, we could have bought a new car for the dough we parted with.

 In a nutshell, the trip took about two weeks. We flew from Boston through London to Johannesburg, South Africa. We spent a day with a guide visiting Jo’burg including a trip to Aparteid Museum and the Mandela homestead (This guided tour was a gift from our travel agent. We love our travel agent). Then we flew to Maun, Botswana and from there to Shinde camp, located in the Okavango Delta. The safari flights (Safari Air) are run in coordination with the camps in the bush, like a bus shuttle. After five days, we flew to Kananacamp, also in Okavango Delta for three more days in the bush. Both Shinde and Kanana are run by Ker & Downey. Finally, we flew to Victoria Falls, drove into Zimbabwe and stayed at the Victoria Falls River Lodgeon the Menbezi River. We enjoyed some other activities there, including a private tour of Victoria Falls, and after three days flew to Jo’burg, London and home.  

The Okavango Delta, where we spent most of our trip, is a very large and somewhat grassy/ swampy inland delta, one of the seven wonders of Africa. The 5000-square mile delta is the result of a depression of tectonic plates. Its water does not empty into the sea; it evaporates. It is a beautiful, broad landscape dotted with trees, palms and brush, with some island formations. Large numbers of mammals, 400 bird species and 71 fish species are found, with many migratory species. The delta creates canals and water areas supporting hippos and fishing and allowing some boat navigation. It is, in short, an area deserving of one’s time and extensive exploration. Hence our 8 days in the same area. 

 Some descriptions, information, reviews and suggestion appear below.

Above all, we recommend Shinde Camphttp://www.kerdowneybotswana.com/our-camps/shinde/for its wonderful guides and staff, its location and accomodations, and its activities on offer. It is true that Kananahttp://www.kerdowneybotswana.com/our-camps/kanana/(also run by the Ker & Downey) is similar and has the advantage of the sleep-out platform for the adventurous, but the tents are closer, and the staff was simply not as wonderful.  Both camps have excellent guides. Both camps offer game drives, night drives, walking safari and makorro (dug-out canoe rides), but only Shinde has the larger fishing boat. Both camps will surprise guests with “sundowners” and meals for everyone as a group (maybe 18 or so?) out on a lake or in the bush. Torches, candles, full bar, excellent food, all under the stars. Lovely. By the way, all of the guides and guests eat together at these camps -- always several great conversations and lots of laughs. I should add that internet is available but very limited. Leave your laptop at home.

Sundowners with full bar and snax

What will you see there? Elephants, cheetahs, lions, wilderbeest, kudu, impala, giraffe, leopard, the endangered wild dogs, buffalo, hyena, warthog, many birds, etc. etc. You can fish (mostly tilapia) and watch many cool birds (including the lovely lilac-breasted roller and malachite kingfisher). 

The Victoria Falls River Lodgehttps://www.victoriafallsriverlodge.comin Zimbabwe has sumptuous accomodations. It also boasts an advantaged location inside Membezi National Park and right on the Menbezi River. The guest buildings have indoor and outdoor showers, plunge pools and lots of room. There is a lodge building where meals are taken and internet is provided. Game drives and river cruises are available free of charge twice daily, as are group tours of Victoria Falls. The food is high quality and beverages are free. Recommended.

The Apartheid Museumin Johannesburg http://www.apartheidmuseum.orgis well worth a visit. Beautifully designed and compellingly presented, the museum’s mission is to provide a clear and well-documented history of apartheid and its effect on southern Africa.  Combine with a visit to Soweto. Recommended. 

Victoria Falls, located on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia,is considered one of the original Seven Wonders of the World. It is the largest falls in the world, twice the size of Niagara Falls. You can view the Falls from either Zambia or Zimbabwe, although we hear that the Zimbabwe view is superior. There is a statue of Livingstone, a walking path and a few close-up viewing points, one slippery and perilously close to the edge. Fifteen minute helicopter rides are available for big bucks. There are enormous plumes of mist that often roll in and wet everyone down. I’m glad I saw Victoria Falls once, but would not rush back to do it again.

All in all, an incredible, memorable trip. Hope we can get back to southern Africa in the near future.