Ubud 2016

     Returning to Ubud for the third time, I was struck by the increase in tourism, the continued construction especially on Bisma Road, and the traffic. Like all of south Bali, Ubud has become a destination of choice for many travelers, and offers a broad range of accommodations, mind/body  and cultural activities. It has also stepped up its game in the area of excellent dining establishments. This latter was a great revelation.

     This time we stayed at Komeneka at Bisma, a five-star property and one of the five sublime Komeneka properties. It has 2016 Certificate of Excellence from Trip Advisor, and a 97% excellent review status. We had a villa with a lanai facing a wonderful view of the rice fields. There was yoga on certain days, tea service every day, a great pool, use of the Komeneka shuttle every hour, a free entry to the Neka Gallery and impeccable service. This is my second stay at a Komeneka property (I stayed at Tanggayuda three years ago) and I felt very much at home here. I do speak a few words of Bahassa (Indonesian) so the staff always wants to talk for a few minutes and this can be an effort after awhile, but they are so sweet I really could not object. Love the Komeneka at Bisma. Highly
recommended.

The Infinity Pool. Komeneka at Bisma

     Bali Bird Walks (http://balibirdwalk.com/index.html) with my friend Sumadi is a "must do" in my book. I have been out with Su four times now, and she always provides an exceptional experience with fun and learning in equal measures, with some good exercise and incredible scenery to boot. The  trip is 2.5 hours and then lunch at Murni's Warung.  Su will provide binos and water if you need them, and a bird list to fill in over lunch. The price of $37. is an amazing value. Su is a very special person and a luminous being. Read the TA reviews. You don't want to miss this.

     I am thrilled to report that I had many close-up sightings of that gorgeous fella, the Javan kingfisher, and as a God-given bonus, a great look at a blue-eared kingfisher, which took my breath away.

Javan kingfisher

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     One of my favorite food experiences in recent memory happened at Locavore on Jalan Dewi Sita. It was suggested by my Insight Travel Guide to Bali and I booked it a few days in advance. There are 5- and 7- course menus with drink pairings if you want them (we passed). Cosktails are delicious and creative. The food, presentation, explanations, vibe are all superb. Of course all the food is locally sourced, and beautiful to look at. There are numerous little bites, amuse bouche, post-desserts, which are extra added attractions. The

Blue eared kingfisher

veggie options are every bit as tasty as the meat/fish options. Dishes like young bamboo stewed in its own juices with chervil and beurre blanc amaze and enthrall one's tastebuds. They did a "bloody mary" hot/cold soup sorbet thing with intense tomato flavors that was absolutely killa. I think we paid about $120. for two, with cocktails; expensive for Bali but, as I say, a real dining experience.

     As a more informal option, there is now a Locavore to Go across the street from the original restaurant, and it is serving 3-courses for lunch and dinner. We were also knocked out here by a delicious warm vichyssoise with fried leeks and bacon bits, served with "Asian pesto" (lemon basil, young goat cheese and coconut oil) and homemade sourdough bread, followed by tangine of lamb shank, and a tropical bread pudding for dessert. Outrageously good! I think it was about $60. with drinks. Check them out on Facebook.

Warm leek & potato soup with "pesto" and sourdough

Delicious lamb shanks with moroccan rice

     We also ate a dinner at Spice, Chris Salans' (French Laundry) place. This is a gastro bar where Western Food is infused with Indonesian flavors and great results. The atmosphere is very friendly and hip. Sitting at the horse-shoe shaped bar, the chef comes over and talks about your food in a very natural way. Delicious salads, cocktails, and sliders, tuna carpaccio, etc. Lots of people like this place, but you can probably get in without a res.

     For a great dining experience that is closer to Indonesian cooking, try Palau Kelapa (Jalan Raya Sanggignan). They have a lovely garden that you can tour, and pick your own veggies for the meal. Fresh food,  great outdoor seating options, and delicious homemade sorbets and ice-cream (I had durian ice cream, of course).

     The Tamarind Spa at Murni's Houses (Jalan Raya, opposite Pura Dalem, "at the aqueduct, up the ramp") is a beautiful, peaceful and professional spa operation. Cheryl enjoyed a package of treatments where I went in for reflexology/foot massage to ease my aching dogs. Great treatment at a reasonable price, clean and relaxing in a very lovely setting. Recommended.

garden at Tamarind Spa

   The Neka Museum on Raya Campurhan is certainly worth a visit for its collection and lovely grounds, but is perhaps not as compelling as the Museum Puri Lukisan ("Palace of Painting") which has even more bucolic green space, a pond and very nice cafe. Still, the Neka has a fine collection of Ubud style painting and contemporary Balinese work. As stated earlier, admission is free if you stay at any Komeneka property.

    Ubud is a hub of dance, yoga, spas, spiritual growth, shopping, food and drink, and all sorts of accommodations to fit any budget. It has definitely grown, even in the last three years, but is still very inviting due to its small-town vibe and all it offers. I hope you have the opportunity to visit.

  You can view an earlier post on Ubud here:  http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2013-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2014-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=12  and also a post on this blog, spybird,  from 7/14/14