Damariscotta River Association

     As I spend more and more time in midcoast Maine, I continue to appreciate and applaud the wonderful work of the Damariscotta River Association (www.damariscottariver.org). 

     Founded in 1973, the DRA was created to advocate for, protect and encourage enjoyment of the natural assets in and around the Damariscotta River watershed. Since that time, it has accepted land donations and grants with a view toward preserving their natural beauty while allowing the public access to them. At the same time, the DRA offers some wonderful educational programs, workshops, and walks. These present an opportunity to learn about nature with an expert in the subject area, and often get out in the woods for a few hours. There is also an archaeology field school for those who are interested.

      One of the most enjoyable DRA offerings is the Mushroom Workshop offered by Greg Marley. Mr. Marley is a dedicated amateur mycologist, author and a wonderful presenter. His workshop (October 4 this year) includes a half day "classroom" component and half a day walking at Dodge Point hunting for mushrooms. 

At Dodge Point with Greg Marley

The cost of the full day workshop was $120., and included some handouts. It was a terrific value and highly recommended. Besides Greg's workshop, there are many naturalist hikes, bird walks and the like offered throughout the year.

     The DRA headquarters are at 110 Belvedere Road in Damariscotta. The "Farmhouse" that houses its offices also provides the starting point of some trials that make an enjoyable walk in any season.

      Please look in on and consider supporting the DRA when you visit midcoast Maine.

Resort Sociability -- Lost or Left Behind?

       This post is meant as an inquiry into this question: in a civilized world, to what extent does the international traveler staying at a hotel or resort have an obligation to be sociable? 

       During recent travels in Asia, I observed at several resorts a trend toward decidedly chilly social relations among my fellow guests, especially people under, say, 45 years old. I noticed that many guests staying at these resorts or lodges seem uninterested in making small talk, exchanging pleasantries or even saying hello to people they see time and again over several days or more.  Left to their own social devices and without any compulsion, most of the younger couples preferred to look away or simply mind their own beeswax. Voluntary conversation and social engagement with near-strangers is becoming a rare thing generally. And it appears to me that the "vibe" at many high end travel accommodations is suffering because of it.

       It wasn't always so. In my parents' halcyon days of travel, social intercourse was part of the pleasure. Meeting new people provided an opportunity to compare notes, offer suggestions, even make friends. Does that still hold true now that everyone has a smartphone with an international SIM card? I'm not sure.

     Maybe part of the equation is where you are and why you are there. One of the Asian resorts I'm thinking of was a bit isolated. Maybe some of the socially private folks were on their honeymoon, or just wanted a break from people. Maybe that's why they looked away from me with dread when I asked if they enjoyed their dinner.  

       In complete contrast to these recent experiences in Asia, I can recall conversing and interacting with every guest at an eco-lodge in Costa Rica a few years ago. Each night a group of about a dozen guests, all ages, would all gather at the bar before dinner to exchange photos, talk about animals we saw that day, and suggest itineraries for the next day. Come to think of it, I'm still in touch with some of these folks.  And I think these informal social gatherings, which continued on to "family-style" service at dinner, really enhanced the experience for all of us. 

       Is it a generational thing? Is it just the way we're brought up? Is it climatic?

       Last trip to Paris, Cheryl and I were at Rino, a wonderful new-school restaurant Tony Bourdain raved about in his food/travel series. (It was superb. Find more info here: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1868664-Reviews-Rino-Paris_Ile_de_France.html ) Anyway, we saw a woman about our age eating her dinner alone at a table nearby, and we heard her speak English to her server. Cheryl promptly invited this lady to sit and dine with us. Not something I would do personally, but I loved her for that. And it turned out to be a really good experience for all of us. 

     Look, I'm not asking for a communal experience at a resort. People spend good money for their vacations, and I respect their right to privacy if they want it. But let's be civilized. Let's have enough in the way of social chops to enable us to look at someone, smile and say hello. It's a win-win proposition, costs nothing, and makes for a much better atmosphere. And travel experience.     

      

New Accommodations at Tugu Lombok

       I am a big fan of the Tugu resort in Lombok, especially for those who want to get away from it all, and relax in the lap of luxury. The resort has been favorably reviewed here and in my monterisi in mondo indo blog, as well as Conde Naste and Trip Advisor (2014 Excellence Award). It is located on the northwest coast of Lombok, on the incredibly beautiful Sire Beach. I stayed there for the second time this past May.

       While exploring the area next to the current resort we came upon some interesting new construction, and poked around a few of the buildings, which seemed about 75% complete. There we came upon an unassuming gentleman, who also seemed interested in the new work. After some polite chatting, we learned that this man was Bepak Anhar, the owner of the Tugu chain, and chief visionary and designer these new units. A pleasant and soft-spoken man, Bepak Anhar offered to show us the new model unit, which was almost completed and furnished. He called on his phone for the key, and one of the managers came running (literally) with it.

     The new accommodations (maybe six of them?) are right on the beach and feature a Chinese village theme. They are furnished with beautiful antiques that mix opulence and whimsy in equal measure. Black lacquer and carved Buddhas, beautifully carved doors and details. The room we saw was larger than the Aloon-Aloon villa we rented. There was an individual infinity pool that looked out to the beach. Very romantic and decidedly deluxe. We asked the price tag for a stay here. Bepak Anhar said about $800. USD per night, at least three times the cost of a different accommodation there. 

      The units may be completed by now and are worth an inquiry by any high rollers. I would enjoy hearing from anyone who stays in one of them.

Back to Bali and Lombok / 2014

       Indonesia stays with you after you've left it, like a haunting melody, a fabulous novel or a beautiful woman.  It is so varied, so exotic, so evocative, that it refuses to be forgotten. I found that Indo returns to my memory over and over again, even more so now that I have visited her twice.

       Cheryl and I traveled to Bali, Yogyakarta and Lombok this past Spring, for the last two weeks in May and the first week of June. For me, my second time; Cheryl's first visit. Our itinerary included three days in Seminyak, Bali and four days in Ubud, Bali.

      I have written extensively about my three months in Indonesia, both in these posts and in an entire blog called Monterisi In Mondo Indo found here: http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com
For our purposes now,  I want to only cover new ground, and hit on some new recommendations.
If you want a bit more detail, try Trip Advisor, and especially the reviews of damariscottalakegirl. She is brilliant!:)

      Here we go, then, seven highlights of Bali:

      1. The Semaya Seminyak. Choose your own glowing adjective, it will probably fit ---- opulent, gorgeous, restful, luxe, friendly --- all of these describe Semaya Seminyak.
                                             

Facing pool, ocean and dining area

The Semaya is centrally located in Seminyak, has modern amenities and a great beach. We scored a pool villa which included our own rather large pool, a large bedroom, living area and oversized bathroom with two sinks. As far as personal space is concerned, ours at the Semaya was the finest accommodation I've ever stayed in (and I write this with all due gravitas). The staff is very helpful but never intrusive. My wife raved about the spa. Breakfast was sumptuous. Highly recommended.

       2. Urchin Restaurant, Seminyak. Very close to the Semaya on Jl. Laksmana #22, this restaurant specializes in interesting preparations of local seafood. It is not overly formal, but not a seafood shack by any means. Interesting modern space, open kitchen, superb cocktails (mine with basil and gin), and the wonderful Kathy hosting. Prices are reasonable.

       3. Pura Tanah Lot. One of the most visited temples in all of Indonesia, Pura Tanah Lot is one of the seven sea temples said to form a chain around the Balinese coast (Wiki). It was built in the 16th or 17th century and is said to be guarded by snakes who live in a fresh-water spring under the entrance. It is perhaps overly-touristed, but the photo ops are great and it makes a beautiful and mysterious scene, especially at sunset and sunrise.
                                                 

        4. Ubud Palace. The cultural center of Ubud is also, almost parenthetically, one of the most beautiful sights in Bali. The palace has lovely traditional Balinese houses and temples, all with superb architectural detail  It was founded in the 19th century and remains fully functional and well-maintained. The traditional market is across the street and Ibu Oka, home of the killer the roast suckling pig lunch sits kitty corner across another street.
                                                                         

            5. Lello Lello. It's just a gelato spot opposite the Semaya at 21 Jalan Kayu Ara in Seminyak, but the flavors are delicious, the place is clean and welcoming, and it's a lot cheaper than Italy. Everyone loves the salted caramel, but the local fruit flavors are quite refreshing. The gelato girls are sooo cute!

            6. Bicycling With Bali Eco Tours. My second time and I'm ready to go again. My original review from March, 2013 is here: http://monterisiinmondoindo.blogspot.com/2013/03/ubud-finale.html. This is still a wonderful deal at about $38. for a full day. You get a bit of exercise, meet nice people, make five or six cultural stops, and get two excellent meals. Pick-up and drop-off from your hotel. It's the best.

Breakfast view

       7.  Local Dance from Lotus Cafe.  Traditional dance is part of everyday life in Ubud. It is very available and very inexpensive. The new tourist office will sell tickets in the $7. range to dance at one of the local venues. But for a special experience, I suggest you go to Lotus Cafe on Jalan Raya Ubud. Honestly, the food here is not that great. Cafe Wayan, for example, has better food. But for a reasonable extra price, you can dine and watch dance in a very exotic lotus pond, and the visuals are pretty special. Unfortunately, hard to photograph:
                     

                                       
Our table was right at the black gate. The performance was beautiful. The total cost of dinner for two and the show was about $50. USD.

       There is so much to Bali, we have just begun to scratch the surface. There are incredible local crafts including some of the finest silver work I've seen. We also had the chance to visit some temple festivals during a Hindu holiday, and that was quite special. The delightful and knowledgeable Su took us out for an incredible day looking at birds and nature as part of a Bali Birdwalk tour.

       Here's hoping you enjoy these posts and all of your journeys.

Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido

       Being in Mexico over the holidays was just what the doctor ordered. Six days in Oaxaca with three additional days on the Zicatela Beach in Puerto Escondido to get some sun and salt water. Flying through Houston is easy and convenient, and with a single hour time difference, one does not suffer jet lag or hardly any inconvenience.

Let me list some things to love about Oaxaca:

1. Yes, it is safe. I researched this before we planned our vacation and you can, too. Even the notoriously skittish U.S. State Department says "You're okay in Oaxaca." But even beyond the absence of narco-terrorism, this town, nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Madre, is family-friendly, easy on strangers, very comfortable. Taxis are inexpensive and much of the centro is on a grid, so easy to navigate.

2. The climate is perfect. Of course, this changes seasonally. But during late December and early January, we're talking maybe low 80s, dry and sunny during the day, sweater weather at night. At the beach it was about 5 degrees warmer and a bit humid --- great beach weather.

3. Low cost. My new gringo friends, Michael and Marcia, have been coming to Oaxaca from their home in Portland, Maine for years now. Michael says, "It's like having the pleasures of a Tuscan hill town for about a third of the price." Well said, bro. Mexico generally and Oaxaca / Puerto in particular, offer excellent value, and we visited at the most expensive time of year. An excellent meal at a good restaurant is $20. Beer and mescal are temptingly inexpensive. Even rooms are quite reasonable.

A couple dances to a high school band in the zocalo.

4. Great food and drink. The city of Oaxaca has long been considered the culinary capital of Mexico Cf. Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oaxaca,_Oaxaca). They call it the Land of the Seven Moles (say "mo-lay"). These are delicious sauces made up different ingredients, usually paired with particular foods. For example, the classic black mole, made with chocolate, is most often served with chicken. Yellow, green and red, all tasty. There is also amazing local cheese that tastes a lot like mozzarella string cheese. If you enjoy eating out, there are numerous restaurants with wonderful options (see below for some faves). Speaking of chocolate, Oaxaca is a fantastic place for chocoholics of all stripes. There are plenty of shops where chocolate is blended by hand for use in hot chocolate, chocolate malts and mole (see Mayordomo, below). Finally, try the chapulinas or grasshoppers (they're sort of flash-fried in almost no oil). High protein, low fat. These are not novelty food; they are an integral part of culture and cuisine. So do what the locals do: put some 'hoppers in your choppers.

5. Family-friendly. I mention this above but it bears repeating. There are lots of activities for families and the Mexicans themselves love children. There are enough conveniences to keep kids comfortable.
Check out the zocalo (town square) and all the family life there. Quite lovely. There's a new botanical gardens that has great tours (try to get Diego).  Or just enjoy a wedding parade or "sweet 15" party at one of the churches.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
Dusk at the zocalo.

6. Activities. Besides the zocalo and centro (downtown area) with shops, cafes, restaurants, gold-filled churches and basilicas, and pedestrian streets, the most famous and visited site nearby is Monte Alban, pre-Colombian period

Monte Alban / West side platform (Wikipedia)

home to the Zapotec people, built about 500 BC. Monte Alban is spectacular, full of vibe, and almost quieting. Guides are available at the site. Mitla, another, smaller site is also less than a half an hour away, less crowded and highly recommended for the design details on the buildings.

There are many markets inside and outside of Oaxaca. On the southwest side of the zocalo you will find the 20 November market, Benito Juarez market, Abastos and others. You can also visit wonderful markets outside of town. What will you see there? Everything from clothes to tools to produce and prepared food. I bought a rooster baseball cap that I really dig for $3.75 (I did not bargain).Tour companies combine these with trips to the archaeological sites. For example, we visited the fantastic Sunday market at Tlacolula combined with a trip to the Tule tree (a 2000 year old tree -- not sure what the big deal is, though), and Mitla. And we visited the fabulous friday market at Ocotlan with our man Alvin Starkman (more about him later).

Besides markets, there is knife-making, fine cotton embroidery, clay pottery, paintings, rug-making using ancient techniques (like cochineal --- a tiny bug that attaches itself to a cactus and produces the dye used in Campari, make-up and Campbell's soup), and glass-blowing.

7. Alvin Starkman is one of the things to love about Oaxaca. He is a Canadian-born resident of Oaxaca, owner of a B&B, and tour guide par excellence. He will arrange tours for you and your party that last a half day or a day, and he will take you places you would not find on your own. Besides being great company and super-informative, Alvin is an expert in artisinal mezcal production. He will bring you out to tiny distilleries where the time-tested family production techniques for Oaxaca's state drink, mescal, are practiced in their glory. It is fascinating and sometimes intoxicating. I can't recommend Alvin's services and tours highly enough. I believe we paid something like $27. per hour. I must admit that I told Alvin he was too inexpensive. Oh yes, and he took us to a local country meal that was one of the best we've eaten in Mexico; superb! (Alvin, what was the name? Like a tree name? Humach…) Reach Alvin at: oaxacadream@hotmail.com

Hot chocolate made under abuela's watchful eye
A wonderful part of our day with Alvin.

Best meals:

Los Danzantes, Calle Macedonio Alcala 403 Great airy dining room, fantastic food and drink. I think our waiter may have been stoned, but he was so entertaining (and forgot to charge me for my mescal) I didn't mind. Braised pork ribs, fantastic salad and molten chocolate dessert, Oaxacan style, of course.

La Biznaga, Calle Garcia Virgil 510(?) Wonderful informal courtyard cafe with slammin' small plates and a great vibe. Good place to try "house mescals" at about $3 per shot, served with citrus, salt and chili and/or seasoned jicama. Wonderful.

Mayordomo. Yes it's a chain, but a must-visit. They grind their chocolate to order, and you can taste a delicious chocolate malted for a few bucks. Good photo op also.

Mezcaloteca, Calle Reforma 506. Adults only. This is a non-profit dedicated to the conservation and distribution of mezcal. With a reservation, they will do a tasting of 3 mescals for 100 pesos and educate you and your palate. Besides this, they bottle and label details of any mezcal sold on premises, so you know exactly what you are drinking. Helping the producers and providing a great service in a fine atmosphere; they deserve our support.

Mexita, 314 Martires de Tacubaya. The #2 Trip-Advisor rated restaurant in Oaxaca is Italian. Excellent wood-fired pizza, homemade pasta and homemade sausage, and a homemade limoncello free for dessert. I'm a believer. The pizza chef is from Naples so trust that he knows what he is doing. He certainly appears to have the passion. Excellent food and friendly restaurant atmosphere.

Zandunga, Garcia Virgil 512-E. Great appetizers and drinks in an informal atmosphere. Very close to Biznaga.

Itanoni Antojeria y Torilleria  Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma, Oaxaca is Alice Waters' favorite restaurant in Oaxaca (you can google it). Completely understandable. They make beautiful and delicious handmade tortillas in open brick ovens, then serve them to you with fried eggs and fresh veg fillings, crazy-good juices and coffee. The owner/founder was apparently a real corn aficionado, and the production is very authentic. This place often has lines out the door.

A place to stay in Oaxaca? Yes, I have a very good one, but I'm afraid it's getting too popular. Can you believe it? I'm officially a selfish blogger. But e-mail me and I may tell you where to go.

A few words about Puerto Escondido

My lovah is not a beach person because she is fair in all ways. But I love me some salt water and sunshine. I even frolic from time to time. So she will indulge me with a few days at the beach.  Zicatela is a nice section of PE, and if you're very careful (the undertow is treacherous and the surf is pro-grade when the swell comes in), you can enjoy water, prime seafood and the glorious Vitamin D.

We stayed at the Hotel Santa Fe which is directly across the street from the beach and has two of its own pools. Definitely more than adequate, but I don't advise dinner there. We signed up for the New Year's Eve dinner including "surprise appetizer." The surprise consisted of two crackers with dark tuna fish, mayo and peas. Not very festive.

On the edge of downtown PE there is a restaurant called Carojo where a woman who seemed like my Mexican aunt served the best octopus I have ever eaten. Incredibly tender, with garlic, oil and herbs. It was sensational.

The best octo ever.

 She told us the special that day was homemade paella, and the chef was just taking it out of the oven. It was a must have, and it did not disappoint. Fresh seafood, shellfish, chicken saffron rice and the rest. A fantastic meal. Cafecito on Zicatela is also very high quality, mostly breakfast food, baked goods and juices. Finally, we were very intrigued by Acai Bowls. This restaurant is across from the beach and upstairs among the shops and eateries cheek to jowl on the beach "boulevard." They serve acai, the superfood, with what, 300 times the antioxidants in blueberries. This spot is small, and the service is only one person behind a counter. The product is like a sherbet that is not too sweet. They will mix with fruit and peanut butter, but try one of these pure, by itself. Very good and, I guess, healthy.

Side trip from PE: the Manialtepic Lagoon. If you're a bird guy like I am, or you're just in the mood for a wonderful, relaxing day in nature, consider a trip to the Lagoon with a good ecotour company. I recommend LALO Ecotours with Evie. Have your hotel make the reservation because there are a few scam guides; we met a lovely couple from New Zealand who were burned by some imposter guides who took them out in a boat but knew nothing. The price is $40. per person for half a day, including a great rest/refreshment stop on the beach. Very worthwhile and informative. Remember: Evie.

I am so taken with Oaxaca. It is so easy there. The vibe is relaxed, the Mexicans are warm and welcoming. There are not so many European and Asian tourists as you might find in more popular destinations. The climate and price are right, and the victuals are righteous. Looking forward to a return trip very soon.

Thanks for reading!

Back in Boss Town / Mei Mei and Ribelle

     People have been asking why I never post about my home town, Boston, Mass. The truth is, my own back yard never seems exotic enough to me to warrant much internet interest. And when I'm home, I'm more of a homebody than I care to admit. So I'm not the guy trying the newest "in spot" every week.  But lately I've been turned on to a few places that demand some attention.

     One of my favorite eateries is the brand new Mei Mei Restaurant, 506 Park Drive in Boston (just west of Kenmore Square). The web site is here: http://meimeiboston.com/restaurant/. Mei Mei (meaning "little sister" in Chinese) was originally a food truck business rolling through the streets of Boston. I was one of the people that often spent part of his lunch hour this past summer standing in line for my braised beef dumplings. In November, these three siblings opened their brick and mortar restaurant near Boston University and the Brookline Town line. Here's what's to love about Mei Mei:

1. Delicious, home made, locally-sourced food. Inventive, always fresh, and served with interesting house sauces and condiments. The Double Awesome is all about scallion pancakes, poached/fried egg, a slice of fresh cheese and a "pesto" made from different, slightly piquant fresh herbs. The braised beef dumplings are full of lean, slow-cooked beef. The kale salad is heaven but seasonal (don't fret: the wheat berry salad is also excellent).

Carrot soup, corn fritters, kale salad, double awesome, beef dumplings

2. Customer Service. Everyone at Mei Mei is friendly, helpful, service-oriented. We have met several of them while visiting, and I just had my birthday party for 12 people there last weekend. The whole team, especially my man Alex, was wonderful. My friends all commented on how hospitable and cordial the staff was. It's amazing how many stores and restaurants have a good product but blow it in dealing with the public. They need a lesson from Mei Mei.

3. Price. You want to talk bang for the buck? The food is excellent value. The Double Awesome is $7.
Carrot soup is $4.50 and (could be a meal--- Seinfeld).

4. Vibe and Space. Well, yes, it is brand new. But so clean, you can eat off the floors. The kitchen is visible and the decor is simple, minimalist, light and airy.

Go to Mei Mei and enjoy a great food experience. Tell them John, The Birthday Boy sent you.

There's another new contender, just about two miles west of Mei Mei on Beacon Street in Washington Square, Brookline. Ribelle https://www.facebook.com/ribellebkline is at 1665 Beacon Street. This is the first solo project of Tim Maslow, formerly chef at Mamafuku in NYC and the man who helped his father turn a sandwich shop in Watertown into a dining destination for foodies without affectation. That Watertown restaurant, Strip-Ts, deserves its own space in this blog, but that will have to wait.

Ribelle serves some amazing food. I think the paparadelle with bolognese, kale and pork skin is, easily, one of the best dishes I've had in Boston.

The killer paparadelle

The pasta and octopus is also very good. Kale salad is excellent. Truffle egg toast also wins a Dish Delish award. But there are some underwhelming offerings, too. Agnolotti with short ribs was a missed three-pointer. And desserts are not amazing, not even the touted olive oil ice cream.

You should know that the restaurant is loud, and some seating is family style. These dishes are mostly fairly small, too small to share with more than one dining partner. Service is attentive and helpful. You owe it to yourself to check out Maslow's work. It is worthy of any belly god.