This trip was fairly last-minute. We learned early in the Fall of 2023 that there were a few spaces left on a Day of the Dead group trip with our friend Marina Aguirre and Marina in Mexico (www.marinainmexico.com) and we jumped on them. Cheryl has always wanted to do this trip and I will return to the pleasures of Oaxaca for any reason!
We met in CDMX and traveled up to Puebla for the first few days. Puebla is a sweet town and has a lovely cathedral and easy access to the to town of Cholula and its archeological site. I have reviewed these earlier. The main thing I want to say now is the Hotel Boutique Casa Reyna https://www.casareyna.com/es/ is where you want to stay, and also where you want to eat. Excellent rooms and service, the best moles and local food.
Moles of my dreams
A few new notes on Oaxaca. Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) is a beautiful holiday in Mexico. It is celebrated in essentially two ways -- the fiesta side with floats, parades, events as local businesses, and then the family gatherings "celebrating" and remembering dead relatives at cemeteries and home altars. Both are great experiences, but for access to the family side of the holiday, one needs to be invited through a local or someone like Marina.
At the cemeteries, folks bring flowers, incense, fruit, candles, photos and sometimes music and hang out for hours on the nights of November 1 and 2. It's quite the scene and interestingly enough, not very sad; it's more like remembering and appreciation. It was a revelation to experience it, and highly recommended.
Oaxaca is great place to eat, if you don't know. However, during holidays like Day of the Dead reservations can be difficult. There was a 2-hour wait at Las Danzantes (our go-to) so we switched gears and went to Crudo on Avenida Benito Juarez. This was the Best Meal of The Trip. Chef Ricardo Arellano is mashing up fresh Oaxacan ingredients with Japanese style and presentation for a seriously delicious eating experience. It's like a very unique omakase of 5 or 6 dishes with superb flavors and tastes. On the other hand, I was less impressed with Alfonsina, which is a new destination restaurant out near the airport. Food is served in a beautiful courtyard, but the meal itself was just okay. Two of the five dishes featured the same fish, some of the local vegetables seemed bland, and there was a faint odor of sewage. Maybe I was put out for having to travel half an hour for the meal. But let's say "once is enough."
We do like
Zandunga https://www.zandungasabor.com/ for a more casual mood. Sit at the bar and have the house mezcal, which is always tasty, and different and a few apps from the menu. They also have a very cool dress shop for women, right next door. Finally, our group had lunch at the Quinta Hotel downtown, which was well-served in a lovely dining room, but not special or worth the price.
Marina is friends with many crafts people in the Oaxaca area, and one day we visited Manuel Jimenez, who has been making his carved, painted animals for decades. They are often copied and sold in markets around this part of Mexico, but his are unique, original, spectacular and very expensive.
We stayed at Hotel Casantica in the centro. Very nice people, but the rooms are pretty noisy and tired. I would "pass" next time.
As I say, I have rambled about Oaxaca, Mexico City and Puebla in earlier spybird posts, so just wanted to add these notes on new subjects and places.
Don't forget Monte Alban, "a must visit."
Feel free to contact me about Oaxaca for recommendations!
