Spain, 2015, part 3 --- Madrid!

       As I have said elsewhere in this blog, Madrid seems like the forgotten step-daughter of European capitals, even though its metro area is third largest in the EU and its population exceeds 3 million. The city has a decidedly modern infrastructure, plenty of green space and first-rate metro, while it houses plenty of historic buildings and neighborhoods.

Lion guard at a government finance building

       Certainly one jewel in Madrid's crown is the incredible Prado Museum, with an almost embarrassing wealth of classic paintings like Goya, Velazquez and Rubens. Currently there is a wonderful exhibit of El Greco's work and a temporary showing of ten paintings by Picasso culled from various stages of his development. The Prado has free admission on certain days and times, which are worth seeking out to avoid the 24E entrance fee. The Reina Sofia is a modern art collection which we missed but will see next time. The Royal Palace is beautiful and imposing. The Plaza de Espana has the classic sculpture of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza to honor Cevantes. And the Buen Retiro Park is an expansive urban oasis, like New York's Central Park.

Arab-influenced architecture at the Bull Fighting Arena

     The Hospes Hotel was our base of operations, and is located in a convenient area in the northeast corner of the city adjacent to the Alcala Gate. It is a 5-star, with large, comfortable quiet rooms. The service was just okay. Housekeeping actually left our room open after cleaning by mistake (that could have been a disaster). And, the hotel attempted to charge us for water after they failed to leave us a promised bottle of water, and we sought some from the mini bar. Good breakfast, though.

       The new indoor food market near the oldest part of the city is a great place to shop and people watch, and nearby is Cava Baja Street, with some very old restaurants. One, called Restaurante Sobrino de Botin, is said to be the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world. We ate at Casa Lucas on Cava Baja 30 at the suggestion of our guide. We were not disappointed. They combined braised oxtail with dates and pistachios, rolled the mixture into meatballs and served as a small dish with a tasty sauce.

     Maybe the best meal of our stay came from a small but busy taverna off in a funky student/mult-ethnic enclave near metro stop Anton Martin. The place, called Taberna El Sur (Torrecilla del Leal, 12) seems to have quite a following on the internet. It was excellent. Lots of tasty options with large portions and reasonable prices. There was salad with nuts and goat cheese, savory small plates, dessert and the best sangria of the trip. Ask for Alex (even though he is a Yankees fan).

     Much of the fun here is just walking around neighborhoods and poking around. The people are very friendly and happy to guide you. Of all the Iberian ham we enjoyed in Spain, we had the best sample simply stopping into an old taverna for a quick snack.

    Love Madrid, don't neglect her. This is a wonderful, exciting city!

   


   

Spain, 2015, Part 2 -- Menorca es mejor.

   Menorca is one of the Balearic Islands off the eastern coast of Spain in the blue Mediterean Sea, usually accessed by air or ferry from Barcelona. Its name comes from its relative size compared to Majorica, the largest of the Balearics. It is a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1993. There are two larger port towns of about 30,000 people on either end of the island; these are Mahon and Ciutadella.

I've had a fantasy about visiting Menorca for about 10 years now, since visiting Majorica, and I'm here to report that this island does not disappoint. It has fantastic natural resources, a fun, laid-back kind of vibe, monolithic structures, 900 species of wildflowers and some of the best beaches anywhere. The beaches, virtually unknown outside the Balearics, number over 100, and are as accessible or remote as you like. Most invite swimmers; many have services and even restaurants on them. This is not a place for nightlife (go to the infamous Ibiza for that), but offers lots of appealing, family-style amusements, food and drink, and plenty of outdoor activity.

We stayed in Mahon, the large town closest to the airport. Our hotel, Jardi des ses Bruixes, http://hotelsesbruixes.com/en/, came at the recommendation of a friend of mine in Barcelona. It was an excellent choice. The 8-room property is well-located on a quiet street in town, with lots of characteristic charm. Its rooms are spacious and the bathrooms have been redone with lovely modern fixtures and appointments. The staff is warm and helpful. Breakfast is a treat. As a bonus, there is a wonderful rooftop with good views. We enjoyed our stay immensely and give Jardi two thumbs up.

Great Comfort Room at Jardi de see Bruixes

Rooftop view from Jardi

We enjoyed two beach visits during our time in Menorca,  the sprawling Playa Son Bou and smaller Es Grau. We found that many beaches and all towns are easily and affordably accessed by public bus from the Estacion Autobus. Buses came and went on time, and the driver sells tickets on board.

To get "the big picture," we decided to book the "Island Tour" with Excursiones Mernorca. This was a full day affair, including a walking tour of Ciutadella, visit to a cheese-maker, some time in the fishing village of Fornells, and a visit to the shrine on top of Monte Toro, the highest point on the island. Our guide, named Alex, was knowledgeable and spoke English well. The trouble with the tour was the hour and a half from pick-up to the point where the tour begins on the other side of the island. Of course we had to chase down stragglers at several points and spent a lot of bus time getting to and from Cuitadella, picking up and dropping off others. But a good tour; 42E per person.

Naturally, one gets hungry with so much exploring (and shoe shopping. The local shoe, avarcas, are a big hit with my sweetie). Here are a few restaurants and recommendations:

1. Cas Ferrer de sa Font (www.casferrer.com) is a small, organic restaurant in Cuitadella. They have already received accolades from Forbes and The New York Times, and with good reason. This is delicious, unpretentious homemade food with attention to quality ingredients. Lamb ribs were flavorful as was the salad. Special mention to the mint chip ice cream, which was superb. This restaurant definitely deserves your visit.

2. Torralbenc is a Menorcan farm that has been transformed into a hotel with luxury spa, pool and restaurant under the "renowned chef" Paco Morales. The property itself is simple but stunning and well-worth a visit. The food was good but not worth all the fuss we had heard. There was a vegetable medley that sounded better than it was and purposefully included two leaves of white fat (for flavor?). I kept wishing they were noodles. My pork shoulder was good but nothing special. I would probably not go back unless I could swim in the pool (but then I couldn't afford dinner...).

3. Restaurante C'An Burdo in Fornells in said to be THE place for the local lobster stew, oldest and best. It is right on the water in town. Personally, I think it's a tourist trap. The lobster stew was good (not the creamy, spud-filled affair we have here in New England), but I bet there are better places for it.

The famous lobster stew in Fornells.

4. Ses Fourquilles (C. Rovellada de Dalt, 20) in Mahon is my favorite place to eat in Menorca. It's so good we went two nights in a row. They serve small plates from a menu and have 20 or so specials listed on the blackboard every night. The food is fresh and imaginative, the staff is fun and the wines by the glass are tasty. There is one dish called patatas bravas that makes the best bar snack ever. It is simply fried squares of potato topped with fresh tomato sauce laced with garlic and basil. We also loved the avocado "cannelloni" with fresh raw Asian-flavored tuna inside. Tempura asparagus were heavenly. Likewise the fish tacos. Great food in a great atmosphere. Can't wait to return.

patatas bravas

Menorca is one of those hidden gems we hope does not get discovered anytime soon. It has a wonderful timelessness about it and there is also a sense of mystery and allure. For those who want to explore more, there is a great app called Menorca (look for the blue capital M) that will provide details about all the beaches, hiking, services, food and accommodations.

Thanks for visiting. On to Madrid next!

Spain, 2015: Part 1 --- Bilbao and San Sebastian

       In recent years, Spain has lost a bit of its shine as a tourist destination, at least in the US. This is an understandable but unfortunate phenomenon, at least to this observer. Sure, Madrid does not have the romantic and historical panache of a Paris, Rome or Venice, or, for that matter, the neuvo sexiness of a Prague or Reykjavik. And Spain has suffered a lot from what everyone calls "The Crisis." But travelers who overlook Spain now are missing out big time. Having just returned from a few weeks experiencing the artsy phoenix that is Bilbao, the foodie heaven in San Sebastian, the quietly breathtaking beauty of Menorca and the world class cosmopolitan fun of Madrid, and all at bargain prices, I'm here to tell you: go now and enjoy.

       At this writing the Euro is worth 1.11 USD, and of course it always costs to exchange, but this is a fairly good deal based on the historical relationship between these currencies. Traveling outside of peak summertime yields some reasonable airfares, and eating out in Spain can be inexpensive when based on tapas and small plates called pinxtos in Basque towns like San Sebastian.

       Bilbao is the largest municipality of the Basque region and has a population of about 1 million people. Originally an industrial city with an emphasis on iron ore and ship-building, the city began a true renaissance in 1997 with the completion of Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum. This was followed with additional architectural art, a concert hall, a metro system, and renewal projects. The city has become a business and service center. We saw lots of street cleaners and green spaces.

Bilboa's Guggenheim

Koonz's 40' "Puppy" made from fresh flowers is popular in selfies 

A visit to the Guggenheim is a must. And if you can splurge, consider having lunch at Neura, the museum's fancy restaurant just next door (www.neura.com). We indulged in the "9 products" lunch at 95E per person, and it was quite special. My favorite dish was a collection of five different small tomatoes that had been prepared differently, injected with infused oils and herbs. It was perhaps the most memorable meal of our trip, and the visit includes a visit to the kitchen where few extra treats are served (a tempura quail egg was delicious!).

Beautiful salad of greens, asparagus and avocado at Neura

 I can highly recommend accommodations at The Grand Hotel Domine Bilbao, which offers a sleek, modern design, and bar/ breakfast terrace that overlooks the Guggenheim. The hotel does not provide a free bottle of drinking water, however. [note: I find this maddening. In this day and age, any place of rest should include a bottle of spring water and wi-fi at no cost.] But otherwise, a fine place to stay.

It is a short drive from Bilbao to the coastal town of San Sebastian, maybe an hour and a half.  The Basque name for the town is Donostia, by the way. There are some town beaches worth visiting for a quick dip, and the Kuruaal Auditorioa presents world class music in an acoustically perfect environment (We saw the 80-piece Oslo Philharmonic Orchestra present a stunning performance of Tchaikovsky).

But for most visitors, San Sebastian is all about food. It is the second city in the world for Michelin stars per capita (behind Kyoto, Japan, cf. Wiki)  and two of the world's best restaurants can be found here (2013 ratings). For most of us, however, food in San Sebastian centers on pinxtos (say "pinchtos"). Wander into almost any bar/tavern in San Sebastian and you will be dazzled by an array of very high- class small plates that go from about $3 to about $10 per plate. Pair these with an excellent glass of local red (tinto) --- Rioja is nearby --- or the refreshing and delicious white called Txakoli (say "Chacoli") and you will be happy, guaranteed.

I highly recommend to you the group Pinxtos Hunting Tour done with San Sebastian Food (www.sansebastianfood.com). The tour has been recommended by international publications, is well-run, and a great social experience. At 95E per person, the tour turns out to be a great value. We had six stops, all the food/drink was arranged for us, and we felt like insiders in the know. As a bonus, our wonderful guide provided us with a summary of our experience by e-mail together with a cheesecake recipe and other recommendations for eating in the city. Absolutely genius!

Here is a summary, to whet your appetite:

-        Goiz Argi (Fermin Calbetón street)

o   Brocheta de gambas – Prawns skewer

o   Marijuli: Green peper, smoked salmon & smoked anchovy

o   Pimientos de Padrón & Gindillas – Green peppers (big and small ones)

o   Drink: White wine, Txakoli de Getaria

-        Bar Sport (Fermin Calbetón street)

o   Chipirón con vinagre de modena y salsa de ajo y perejil – Baby cuttlefish with Modena balsamic vinager and parsley and garlic sauce

o   Calamari 

o   Drink: White wine, Via Nova with Godello grape

-        Zeruko (Pescadería street)

o   La hoguera – Smoked cod with fine herbs mayonnaise and shot of liquid salad

o   Drink: White wine from Rueda región

§  Here you should also try ´La rosa´which is the main lobster one with the pink liquid we saw yesterday

-        Gandarias (31 de Agosto street) 

o   Solomillo - Sirloin steak

o   Jamon de bellota - Iberian ham 

o   Queso Idiazabal (de oveja Latxa)- Idiazabal cheese (from Latxa sheep) 

o   Drink: Red wine, Trus Roble from Ribera del Duero wine 

-        A Fuego Negro (31 de Agosto)

o   Aceitunas con vermuth – Olives with vermuth

o   MaKcobe – Mini burguer

o   Pajarito – Queal

o   Drink: Red wine, crianza from Rioja region

-        La Viña (31 de Agosto street)

o   The best cheesecake from the city

o   Drink: sweet red wine, Pedro Ximénez

Other nice bars to visit:

-        Nestor (Pescaderia street)

o   This is the bar I mentioned is well known for the steak, tomato salad, the pimientos de padrón and the tortilla (remember to go 30 mins before to book your piece!).

-        Casa Urola (Fermín Calbetón Street)

o   Vieira en salsa ajoblanco - Scallop in ajoblanco sauce

o   Tartaleta de hongos, queso de Idiazabal y piñones – Pastrey with fungus, Idiazabal cheese and pine nuts

o   Ensalada de tomate de temporada – Seasonal tomato salad

-        La Cuchara de San Telmo (off 31 de Agosto Street)

o   Foie gras con mostaza y mermelada de naranjo – Foie gras with mustard and orange jam

o   Carrilleras con salsa de hummus - Veal cheeks with hummus sauce (see photo below)

-        Borda Berri (Fermín Calbetón Street)

o   Salmorejo soup

o   Rissotto de Idiazabal – Idiazabal cheese risotto

o   Pulpo – octopus 

-        Atari (by Santa María Church)

o   Torrija (basque bread & butter pudding), carrilleras (veal cheeks)

-        Ganbara (San Jerónimo street)

o   Hongos (porccini & egg yolk), Calamares, Mini Croissants with ham, Txuleta (steak).

-        Txepetxa (Pescadería street)

o   Anchoa con arándanos (anchovy and blueberry), Anchoa con Huevas de Trucha (anchovy and trout eggs), Anchoa con aceituna (anchovy and black olives), Anchoa con Centollo (anchovy with spider crab) -> my favourite one! J

-        Sirimiri (Mayor street)

o   Secreto Ibérico (Porc)

-        La Mejillonera (Puerto street) 

o   It may not look that nice from the outside, but they have the best Patatas Bravas and Tigres (Mussels with spicy tomato sauce).

Pinxtos Bar

...and more Pinxtos

The killer veal cheek, my fave

There is really no bad food in San Sebastian. It seems the availability and options are so great that people are downright giddy. Everyone --- visitors and locals alike --- seems to be in a terrific mood almost all the time. They are happy to talk about their favorite small plates and share food hints with newbies.

Honestly --- and I realize the gravity of what I'm about to say --- I have never eaten better than in San Sebastian. The Michelin stars are almost superfluous. This is it. The Main Nerve. Food Heaven.

You don't want to miss it!

Come back and read the next installment on Menorca and Madrid. Thanks for looking in!