Huatulco and Back to Oaxaca

            I guess you could say it’s becoming a habit. For the last two winter holiday seasons, that is just after Christmas until just after the new year, my lovah and I head to the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Last year we visited Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca city. This year, we decided to enjoy four days in the smartly- and gently- developed group of bays called Bahias de Huatulco or just plain Huatulco (say wah-tool’-co), followed by a good stint of six days in Oaxaca (wah-ha’-ka) city, the capital of the state.

First Stop: Huatulco

There’s a lot to love about Huatulco. Some13 miles of jagged coastline that  include nine bays and 26 beaches, the area was conceived of by the Mexican government as a planned tourist area. However, as explained to me by my birding guide, Alberto, the government learned from all of its mistakes in Cancun and the “Riviera.” Huatulco has had a water treatment plant for almost three decades, so waste and grey water is not dumped into the ocean, but recycled for irrigation. Roads were planned thoughtfully. The airport is accessible and very pleasant. And there are two small towns – Santa Cruz near the marina and La Crucecita, which centers around a small park with shops, restaurants and a few colonial-style buildings.

But the very best thing about the Huatulco is that it feels decidedly Mexican. In fact, 80% of the tourists visiting here are from Mexico.  It feels culturally different from Puerto Escondido, which has a surfer social dimension to it. Nothing wrong with that, mind you. But we enjoyed Huatulco a lot more.

The food in Huatulco is very good, especially the sea food. Of course, it cannot stand up to comparisons with the world-class cuisine of Oaxaca city, but delicious, fresh food can be found in most eateries. We enjoyed Antijitos Los Gallos Huatulco on Carrizal Street immensely. Large portions of a chicken pozole soup, pounded beef fried with salad and avocado, pork ribs, wonderful fruit drinks and a shot of mezcal for me. It was not fancy, but so tasty! The house chili sauces (two red, one green) were superb. The prices were so reasonable, I almost felt guilty. 

lunch at Antijitos Los Gallos

Mom cooks at Antijitos

We also had very good meals at El Grillo Maninero and Sabor Oaxaca, the former featuring wonderful octopus (I’m an octo guy); the latter with a bit better service and ambiance. Everyone seems to love Terra Cotta at Mision de Los Arcos in Crucecita. It is ranked #1 by TripAdvisor. The food is, in fact, very good, at least for breakfast (when we ate there). Egg dishes like huevos rancheros were a specialty. The dining room is upscale and air-conditioned. My only complaint was service, which was incredibly slow due to the crowd of people lining up outside. For a wonderful coffee stop or snack in the Santa Cruz area, the Café Huatulco appears to be an enormous 2-level kiosk is in the middle of the park. The owner, Salvador, makes excellent food and local coffee, and the ambiance is relaxing.

We stayed right in the town of Crucecita at Mision de Los Arcos, ranked #1 by TripAdvisor It was fine, really, but nothing very special. Sherry and Sam (the owners) were on site a lot and responsive to any problems. We had ants coming in to the bathroom at one point and the owners had the problem attended to immediately. The room was large enough and had a sunny terrace for sitting and drying clothes. The room rate was very reasonable, the location was central, just off the main park, and the staff was helpful. But wi-fi was iffy, and our room, facing the street, was a bit noisy. Unfortunately, there was cat poo on the marble stairs one night when we came in.

Mision de Los Arcos was not on or near the ocean and does not have a pool, so we de-camped for our last night to stay at Secrets, an all-inclusive all-adult resort on the beach. The location is superb, fronting a beautiful, clean bay great for swimming. There are five differently themed restaurants, three pools (one with a swim-up bar), five themed restaurants, spa, etc. etc. Food and drink (including top shelf booze) is unlimited. The rooms all look out onto the bay and have a Jacuzzi. There is entertainment, soft sports and activities. It is very expensive.

Secrets, a view from the Sky Bar

I’m not convinced I would return to Secrets, at least during the holidays. Besides the heavenly rates and crowds of Canadians on package trips, the check-in experience was awful. The food is good but not terrific, and we just don’t drink enough to make it worthwhile (but others do, for sure). Finally, to be frank, I find it hard to tell people I stayed at a resort called “Secrets;” it sounds too much like something out of The Bachelor. If you want an all-inclusive that welcomes kids, the same company operates Dreams just a ways down the beach. Both names are so unfortunate.

If you’re interested in birding or cultural tours out of Huatulco, I suggest Alberto Espana Chavez (Homie Tours). Alberto has a Facebook page and specialize in birding at the state park, which is lovely. Also, his proprietary Three Levels Tour takes you to three different areas including the foothills of the mountains. His prices are quite reasonable.

Back to Oaxaca

The highway between Huatulco and Oaxaca is still under construction, but even after completion it will still be a long haul of what, six or seven hours. The airports in Oaxaca are clean, modern and easy to negotiate. We have flown Aerotucan twice now and think this is the way to go if you can afford it.

We stayed at the B&B Bugambilias on Calle Reforma for the second time. Adriana and her family do a fantastic job of making people feel welcome. There is a tasty two-course breakfast every morning and the location in the Centro is prime. The prices are very reasonable, and you can get a 10% discount for paying in cash (which is worthwhile if staying more than a couple days).  If you want to go a bit more upscale, the Quinta Real in the centro looks pretty deluxe and has its own pool. We may consider this next time.

Before anything else, a plug for The Man, Alvin Starkman. Here is a friendly and professional one-man course in the local art of mezcal, the deliciously addictive spirit of certain agave cacti. As an act of service and generosity, Alvin will bottle, label and seal mezcal his clients buy. Beyond his Mezcal Education tours, Alvin is a great doorway to the inside of Oaxacan culture through craft artisans, markets, and just hanging out with him. His prices are quite reasonable. Check him out at Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca .

Old school clay pot distillation, on tour with Alvin

Oaxacan countryside with agave 

We also visited a local clay pot artisan who Alvin knows. It was a revelation just watching her work.

Food in Oaxaca is always a treat. It is becoming a culinary destination.

Our first night in Oaxaca was New Years’ Eve. I had written to our favorite restaurant, Los Danzantes, to see what they were offering. It turned out to be a great move. They had a special six-course meal with all the drink you wanted, a performance by acrobats that reminded me of Cirque du Soleil, masks, toys and decorations, and their own fireworks. Since the restaurant courtyard is open-air, they were able to put on a real pyrotechnical extravaganza. 

Acrobats for New Year's Eve at Los Danzantes

Best of all, we were seated with a wonderful, Mexican family who spoke some English, and we became fast friends. It was one of the best NYEs in recent memory. Not content with one Los Danzantes experience, we returned for lunch one day. Simply superb. I suggest the local stuffed hierba santa, chile rilleno, and candied pork ribs.

One of the elegant, new kids on the block is La Pitiona, (Allende 108 in the Centro) is the vision of former El Bulli chefJosé Manuel Baños Rodríguez. The food features local products and spins interesting takes on traditional favorites. The 5-course tasting menu is $40. per person and is very worthwhile. The kitchen allowed us to vary some dishes so we could try more things. We had a dish called The cow that wanted to be a goat.  There were tortillas made from agave and other non-corn grains. One dish came to the table under glass with an orange vapor that puffed for a second when the glass is lifted off, and revealed a perfectly cooked piece of fish. The place feels upscale without being too formal, and it has a minimalist design vibe. A friend of mine said it was pretentious, but I don’t agree. I would certainly go back, and recommend it to you.

We returned to Biznaga, at 512 Manuel Garcia Virgil in the centro. We have friends who were once fans of this eatery, but have been alienated by bad service. Our solution: sit at the bar. It’s easy to flag a server and get what you need. The food and mescal here are very good and not too expensive. Local specialties change every, but try candelas (with zucchini flowers) anything with mole, and great desserts. This place is a must.

Other things to try:

Zumba in the park on Sunday mornings, 9:30-11:00 am

The Museum of Oaxacan Culture --- entrance just to the north of the Santo Domingo Church. A really great building with a view on the botanical gardens interesting exhibits make a worthwhile stop for a few hours.

Benito Juarez Market – just off the zocalo, sells all manner of everyday goods and foods. A bit overwhelming, but soak in the local color.