Away to the Bay of Bengal

       Many Western travelers are pouring into Myanmar (some still prefer to call it Burma) these days since the welcome mat has been put out by its government, and Hillary Clinton visited to make it all official. The temples of Bagan and the incredible Schwedagon Pagoda in Yangon are exquisite, but know that the tourist infrastructure is still in its infancy (for better or worse).  And there is every reason to be concerned long term about the preservation of the wonderful architecture and colonial buildings; I hope that organizations such as Yangon Heritage Trust will prevail.

       Last month I saw an article in Conde Nast Traveler about Ngapali Beach, a spectacular swath of fine sand beach way down in the South of Burma, in the Bay of Bengal. The article  said the area "calls to mind the Thailand of decades ago." Cheryl and I stayed at the Amazing Ngapali Resort (95-1-434-2011) so I wanted to put my two cents in.

       First of all, the beach is fantastic ---- large, uninhabited, great for swimming, clean, and it is directly adjacent to the resort:

Ngapali Beach, taken from the Ngapali Amazing Resort

Besides swimming, you can arrange snorkeling (not great because no reefs), boat rides and fishing. The boats can take you to a spit of an island where excellent fresh fish and booze are available from a simple shack. Well worth doing.

       The accommodations at ANR are very comfortable, clean and large enough. Most, if not all, have a small balcony/lanai with a view to the ocean. The food is very good, but stick with the fresh sea food, as one of the guests had a burger she regretted for a few days :(. The vibe is friendly and low key. 

     I have read lots of the reviews on Trip Advisor, and I was not quite as impressed as many of the reviewers. At least in 2012, the staff was still learning service, did not explain procedures and activities well, did not speak English well. The natural warmth and hospitality you find in, say, Thailand, was not evident.  But perhaps this is an unfair comparison, and I'm sure management has been working on service.

     Would I go back? Yes, for sure. We enjoyed ourselves, relaxed, ate and drank well, and the cost was only about $200. per night. That's a bargain. And, of course, the sun setting into the Bay of Bengal is lovely:

sunset from our balcony

       

Green Hotels: Here to Stay

       More and more, travelers are taking their ecological consciousness on vacation with them. They are making their plans taking into account the impact of their travel on the earth and its natural resources. They want to have a positive effect (or at least not a negative effect) on the beautiful places they visit. They are seeking out options that will make them feel good about the way they see the world, travel for business, or visit a new city. You may have noted recently that Trip Advisor, one of the premier travel web sites, now includes "Green Leaders" to help point travelers to environmentally aware properties and places http://www.tripadvisor.com/GreenLeaders.

       The hospitality industry's response to both An Inconvenient Truth http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/An_Inconvenient_Truth and the desire of enlightened travelers to "go green" came in large part from a man who is, and for many years has been, a visionary and leader in the movement to make the business world respect and even protect the Earth.

       Enter Tedd Saunders* and his company Ecological Solutions http://www.ecological-solutions.net/index.htm. Tedd is true believer when it comes to saving the environment, and I can tell you, the man "walks his talk" in every aspect of his daily life.  He is also an activist when it comes to getting the business community to practice what he calls "sustainable management" ---- leadership and practices designed to reduce waste and increase efficiency while providing customers, clients and guests with a great, even luxurious, experience.

Tedd Saunders: man with a green mission

     In 1989, Tedd and his family began to implement small and large environmental improvements at the hotels they own and operate in the Boston area, including their flagship property The Lenox in Back Bay http://www.lenoxhotel.com. In 1992, Tedd founded Ecological Solutions, a company whose mission is to take the best practices learned from his experiences at The Saunders Group hotels and use them to help hotels around the world, including Taj Hotels in India.
     Tedd says "Nothing we do is extraordinary... it's all good old common sense and smart business." So how do these green hotels treat the environment responsibly? The hotels have implemented a constantly-expanding set initiatives related to all of its systems, including energy use, insulation, recycling, PERC-free dry cleaning, healthier paints and cleaners, etc. etc. Below you can look at some of the environmentally-sustainable features of a guest room at The Lenox:

1. super-insulated windows      2. locally produced room products reduce truck exhaust     3. high-quality low-flow fixtures     4. attractive in-room recycling     5. 4,800 energy-efficient bulbs throughout the hotels     6. FSC certified wood used in renovations     7. eco-friendly cleaners

Two particular examples are compelling. Amenity dispensers --- large, good-looking, refillable containers for providing guests with shampoo, body lotion and the like --- have saved about 8300 pounds of wasted plastic compared to the traditional small bottles since 2000, and also saved 85% of the liquid itself, which is usually thrown away unused.  Also, using compressed natural gas for one hotel's airport shuttle vans has reduced costs considerably and saved carbon emissions with every usage.

      By its leadership in this area, Saunders Hotel Group has garnered some serious awards and attention. The New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel & Leisure and NBC Nightly News among others, have reported favorably on SHG's contribution to sustainable tourism. And, importantly, all kinds of travelers who have an environmental consciousness patronize their hotels over and over again. Shared values become a major marketing strategy.

     Far from being content with its contribution to green travel, SHG has set up some ambitious goals for its business model, including diverting 80% of its waste to recycling and reducing greenhouse emissions 20% by 2020.

       There is no doubt that savvy travelers are trending toward more awareness of their environmental footprint. This awareness will continue to drive choices in accomodations, among other things. For those who are ready to make their travel greener, hotels like The Lenox are ready to serve in style and comfort.

*Happy Disclosure: In the service of transparency and authenticity, readers should know that Tedd is one of my closest friends, and I have known him and his family for many years.

Is ParisTourist-Friendly?

    An article published in the travel section of The New York Times about a month ago describes efforts of the French Tourist Board to make Paris a more welcoming, cordial city to international tourists. The thought-provoking article is here: http://nyti.ms/16I7cGq .

     True, Paris has a bad rep with many travelers, at least in America. We have all heard tourist tales about surly waiters in Left Bank cafes,  being treated rudely in stores or markets, and having our attempts at French received with sarcasm or worse. Also true, 30 million tourists a year can be a trying experience for locals and service workers alike. But why take it out on the hands that feed your dependent tourist industry?

Always lots of visitors to Notre Dame

    Is there a real problem here? If so, who or what is responsible? Is there a cultural disconnect?

    My own experience is like Mr. Sanger's in the article, the Atlanta native who has visited 100 times without experiencing any rudeness. I've never had a problem, and neither have travelers in my party, in the four times I've visited. Is that coincidence? Maybe. But I think that as tourists we can conduct ourselves in ways that smooth feathers and soothe service people around us. And this is a skill set worth implementing, to maximize the potential of a good experience. Some points are found in the Times article. Allow me to add my own:

     1. Do say please and thank you, of course. Don't shout; be patient and smile. In other words, act like a good guest. Let service people do their work around you without a lot of interruption. I'm happy to engage if they seem friendly or conversant; I'm happy to just keep things polite and simple if that seems the better way to go.

     2. I don't travel in groups any more. I think big groups in restaurants, hotels and tourist sites can be a nightmare for the staff, as well as for other guests. And groups in a celebratory mood, fueled by wine, well, I would just prefer not to be around them. They are stressors. Sorry; does this make me a downer?

     3. I ask permission before I touch things in stores.

     4. For this and many other reasons, I travel at off-peak times whenever possible. I recall one summer traveling in Florence, Italy in July, where the small historic city center can be packed with international tourists. It was hot, crowded and over-run. After a few days I wondered how the locals could tolerate the invasion, and saw civility stretched to the max.

     5. Try traveling off the well-worn tourist pathways. Always good advice.

     6.  The language thing can be tricky. I always speak my first greeting in the local language if I can. Then, I take my cue from the person I'm speaking with. If they answer in English, I'll go with that. No need to force my poor French on anyone.

     7. Give compliments freely. They are a great social lubricant.

     Well, back to the original question. Will Paris benefit from the Tourist Board's campaign and become a kinder and gentler tourist destination? It will interesting to see whether the number of visitors increase in the next few years. Personally, I think the world is shrinking as travel routes increase and infrastructure is built in new and developing areas, especially in Asia. Expanding tourist horizons may account for the drop-off in people visiting The City of Light.

      But "we'll always have Paris," as Bogie said in Casablanca. It is such a beautiful city with great sights, shops and incredible food. And I, for one, can't wait to return.

Have you had dessert at Angelina? Oh, my word!

 

Falling For Midcoast Maine (part 2)

     I’ve just returned from our “camp” (a Maine-ism for seasonal lake cottage) up in Damariscotta, Maine, where I have been preparing a special post about the joys of fall in mid-coast Maine.

     It must be said by way of introduction that summer is clearly “prime time” around Damariscotta and the Pemaquid Peninsula. There are numerous lakes, including 9-mile Lake Damariscotta, streams and riverways, beaches, ponds and all the water sports, camping, and warm-weather activities you could ask for, set in a landscape of rolling hills, farms, and beautiful New England coastline.

     But this area, about an hour north of Portland, saves some of its best and most family-friendly activities for post Labor Day. Most of the stores, seafood shacks, and restaurants stay open until Columbus Day. Traffic is no longer a bother, and the fall colors are bold and beautiful. I have invited some of my ESL students from other countries to experience a weekend in mid-coast Maine for a taste of New England, and all of them have returned raving (in a good way).

     So let me hook you up. Below I have set out some of my own suggestions and asked some local friends for theirs.

     The Damariscotta Pumpkin Fest http://damariscottapumpkinfest.com is probably the major event of the autumn, and with good reason. It runs this year from October 5-14 with the culminating events sprinkled over the Columbus day weekend. Enormous pumpkins are artfully decorated and placed all over town; other pumpkins are hollowed out, decorated and raced with outboard motors on the river. Lots of activities, food and fun for all ages, and well-organized.

a hollowed out pumpkin
for the race

 

carved pumpkin from the Fest

The wonderful Mill Pond Inn in Damariscotta Mills http://www.millpondinn.com is a perfect place to stay. This sweet spot on the southern edge of Damariscotta Lake is conducive to swimming and kayaking, and the Inn makes an ideal base for exploring. My friends Bobby and Sherry Whear have owned the Inn for 29 years and they share my enthusiasm for the Pumpkin Fest:

“Folksy, all locals, lots of public support and the carved pumpkins are lovely,” Sherry says. Bobby chimes in “Just enough people.” Sherry and Bobby will help you plan a few outings according to your interests. [Enjoy art? Maybe you would like to visit the gallery of painter Abby Williams or artist John Whalley http://www.johnwhalley.com, whose studio is walking distance from the Inn.] Ask Bobby to make his famous blueberry pancakes. Rooms are $140/ night.

 

back yard at The Mill Pond Inn

     I asked another friend and local, Deb Wilson, to suggest her fave pick for fall fun in Damariscotta. She suggested an event that is near and dear to her:

 “The Fish Ladder Restoration Celebration is held on the Saturday of Columbus Day weekend each year to celebrate the return of juvenile alewives and the success of the restoration. It's a one day event held from 11 to 3 pm and food is one of the main events! We serve a variety of homemade soups and chowders in fish ladder mugs that guests take home. The fish ladder is open for viewing and if the fish cooperate, there are plenty of juvenile alewives to see. The spring migration of adult alewives is fairly predictable--they arrive in late April in schools and keep coming until early June. The juveniles spend anywhere from a month to 6 months maturing in Damriscotta Lake before descending the fish ladder and heading to sea, where they will grow for four years before returning to spawn in Damariscotta Lake. Many of the juveniles stay in the lake or up small streams until fall rains drive them out-- they then come down in "clouds", descending backwards over the small falls that provide transitions between pools.

Each year at the festival we have - "running of the alewives contest." Neighbor Leigh Morrill makes and numbers wooden alewives, which can be decorated (for a small fee) and entering in a race. They are thrown into the fish ladder and the first one to "swim" under the Route 215 bridge gets a prize.

Leigh Morrill's wooden alewives race to the bridge

We'll also be declaring the winner of our $10,000 raffle at this year's festival.

Check out our website-- www.damariscottamills.org for more information.”

This event is great local color, educational and the small cost of any activity at the celebration supports the rebuilding of the fish ladder. Again, you can walk to the festivities from the Mill Pond Inn.

         On September 29, the annual Pemaquid Oyster Festival http://pemaquidoysterfestival.com will be held at Schooner Landing at the bridge in downtown Damariscotta. If you enjoy these tasty bivalves you can sample some of the very best in an informal setting, along with chowder and other treats. Very reasonable prices, musical entertainment, and educational exhibits round out a fine fall afternoon.

     You won’t want to miss the lighthouse at the tip of Pemaquid peninsula http://www.lighthouse.cc/pemaquid/. Perched on the craggy rocks with bold oceanfront, it is the most photographed lighthouse in Maine, and appears on the Maine quarter. 

    

The Pemaquid Lighthouse

     

      Stop by the Damariscotta River Association on Belvedere Road (www.damariscottariver.org) for a great walk on its property, special weekend naturalist programs, and a wonderful Farmer's Market on Friday mornings until October 25.

      I asked local celebrity Charles Chiarchiaro, Director Emeritus of the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum www.ohtm.org to sum up the fall vibe in mid-coast Maine. With a poetic style so natural to him, Charles said, “Maine is very special. The loons cry, the eagles soar. So John, it’s about diversity, and it’s about natural and human resources during a wonderful show of color.”

     Who can argue with that?

     Come to mid-coast Maine for a fantastic fall getaway. You won’t be disappointed.

     [See my post entitled Fried Fish Freak for a few eating suggestions in this area.]

Plastic Fantastic Pouches (Update!)

     Just to let readers know, I heard from Mike at Igas Island products today. Turns out he was away on vacation with his family, camping near Prince Edward Island in northeast Canada.
   
     Mike assures me he is still in business selling his wonderful travel pouches. You can reach him by telephone at 207-832-1133 and his latest e-mail address is igasisle@midcoast.com. His catalogue is printed online here: http://www.igasisland.com .

     During our conversation today,  Mike mentioned that his electricity is generated by solar power, so you can be assured that the manufacturing process is greener than most. Also, he told me that many of his fine products, including map protectors and the like, were developed and tested in his work as a certified Maine Master Guide.

     Great guy, great product. Check it out!

   

     

Plastic Fantastic Travel Pouches

     Every U.S. traveler nowadays has to be TSA compliant. We don't carry sharp items or carry suspicious packages. We remove our shoes and belts when we're told to. And we know that liquids and gels must be 3 oz. or less and packed in a clear, one quart bag.

     My suggestion for today is the purchase of a heavy duty, PVC or vinyl pouch specially made for travel. There are several on the market, all featuring tough, leakproof construction, good quality zippers, and a hang loop. They are great for packing and double as a toilet kit hanging in the bathroom.

      Mine is very fancy, with a big black zipper and a clip. It cost Cheryl $15., and was purchased from Igas Island Company --- "Sewn with solar power in Waldoboro Maine." It looks like this:

Travel Bag from Igas Island Co.

Here is a link to contact info for Igas: http://www.mainemade.com/members/profile.asp?ID=3033. But I did not get a response to my request for a call back to talk about the product for this post. He may be retired...

     Have no fear, however. There are a few more options. This product by TamperSeal looks like it will do the job http://www.tamperseal.com/tsa-compliant-quart-pouch-liquid-bottles.html and it's only 8 bucks. And here is another option by SKS; see under travel kits: http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/Vinyl-Bags.html .

     These travel bags offer smart functionality and don't wear out. They make a terrific and very affordable gift for any traveler.  Highly recommended.

Fried Fish Freak / Midcoast Maine, part 1

     (This is the first of several posts this Fall about mid-coast Maine. Hope you enjoy and come back.)

     I don't mind admitting that I'm a fried fish freak. I love eating good fried fish of any kind, and will travel far and wide to seek out the best.

     Today's post is about fried fish in mid-coast Maine, specifically north of Brunswick and south of Rockland. This area --- Wiscasset, Damariscotta, and the Pemaquid peninsula --- is my "home away from home." Cheryl and I spend three seasons here, and I make it my business to sample more than my share of fried fish (to help steer friends, of course). The "fish" is almost always cod or haddock, although clams, scallops, shrimp and other seafood is available fried at many of the stands. Fried fish is also available at many lobster shacks and "eat-in-the-rough" joints that Maine is rightfully famous for.

    For a long time, I thought fried haddock in mid-coast Maine began and ended at The Sea Basket in Wiscasset http://www.seabasket.com. Located on Route 1 just south of the village of Wiscasset, The Sea Basket provides good quality and generous portions. There is indoor and outdoor seating and the premises are kept very clean and tidy. The haddock comes in 2-3" pieces with a good, crunchy breading. I believe it cost about $15 for a "basket" with french fries, cole slaw and a roll that's not worth eating. The iced tea is home made and very good.

     My fried fish allegiance switched about a year ago when we started taking friends to Pemaquid Fisherman's Co-op in South Bristol http://www.pemaquidlobstercoop.com/. This is your ideal place for lobster in the rough. You can sit inside or outside, bring your own beer or wine, and enjoy a great view of Pemaquid Harbor. For $12.00, you can get a delicious filet of haddock basket with fries and cole slaw that's worth eating.

Haddock filet basket from Pemaquid Co-op, bottom right

 This is fresh fish delish, and a great value.

    But this past weekend, my fried fish world was changed forever. Cheryl and I met an older couple down at Morse's Sauerkraut a few weeks ago, and they suggested we try Bet's Fried Fish, just north of Boothbay Harbor. Here is a short video made about Bet's : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg5pt5M5cE0.   From Route 1 in Wiscasset, travel south on Route 27; at the village green look left for a sign that says "Free Beer Tomorrow". This place is as basic as it gets; it's a shack and some picnic tables, with two soda vending machines. There is nothing but fresh haddock and fries on the menu.  But let me give you my most earnest assurance: this is FRIED FISH HEAVEN. There is no better --- incredibly fresh, perfectly breaded, served hot with home made dill tartar, home made french fries from local spuds, and an enormous portion. My "basket" (actually two baskets for one portion) was $16. but could easily feed two people:

Bet's --- simply the best!

I learned from a Mainer in an old Chevy truck with a "Bet's Fried Fish" bumper sticker that Bet was originally in the fishing business and had at least one commercial boat herself. She has obviously retained her connections to the good stuff. Her fish is "just off the boat" and she stops cooking when it runs out. I looked into that shack and saw her frying righteously for the people.

Lunch time at Bet's.  So good!

     Everyone says that Red's Eats in Wiscasset http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red's_Eats is the best lobster roll in Maine; honestly, I think so, too. And they do a pretty good fried fish basket. But it is a heavy beer batter breading and is often too greasy. If your companion insists on waiting an hour for her lobster roll, a haddock filet is worth having but sorry, it cannot hold a candle to Bet's.

     Last place and dishonorable mention in the fried fish / fish chips awards goes to Coveside Restaurant in South Bristol http://www.covesiderestaurant.com/restaurant.html . We are attracted to this location in lovely Christmas Cove in South Bristol. Coveside is a great place to meet friends, have a drink, check out the fancy boats at this working marina. But my fish and chips were terrible and Cheryl's fish tacos ditto. The fish tasted frozen and soggy (a friend who joined us for lunch asked "How can you mess up a ham and cheese sandwich?"). We did not finish our meals. And it was expensive. Next time, we'll stick with a beer (if it's bottled).

      Enjoy and tell me what you think.