spybird travel

spybird travel

Sunday, September 1, 2013

Fried Fish Freak / Midcoast Maine, part 1

     (This is the first of several posts this Fall about mid-coast Maine. Hope you enjoy and come back.)

     I don't mind admitting that I'm a fried fish freak. I love eating good fried fish of any kind, and will travel far and wide to seek out the best.

     Today's post is about fried fish in mid-coast Maine, specifically north of Brunswick and south of Rockland. This area --- Wiscasset, Damariscotta, and the Pemaquid peninsula --- is my "home away from home." Cheryl and I spend three seasons here, and I make it my business to sample more than my share of fried fish (to help steer friends, of course). The "fish" is almost always cod or haddock, although clams, scallops, shrimp and other seafood is available fried at many of the stands. Fried fish is also available at many lobster shacks and "eat-in-the-rough" joints that Maine is rightfully famous for.

    For a long time, I thought fried haddock in mid-coast Maine began and ended at The Sea Basket in Wiscasset http://www.seabasket.com. Located on Route 1 just south of the village of Wiscasset, The Sea Basket provides good quality and generous portions. There is indoor and outdoor seating and the premises are kept very clean and tidy. The haddock comes in 2-3" pieces with a good, crunchy breading. I believe it cost about $15 for a "basket" with french fries, cole slaw and a roll that's not worth eating. The iced tea is home made and very good.

     My fried fish allegiance switched about a year ago when we started taking friends to Pemaquid Fisherman's Co-op in South Bristol http://www.pemaquidlobstercoop.com/. This is your ideal place for lobster in the rough. You can sit inside or outside, bring your own beer or wine, and enjoy a great view of Pemaquid Harbor. For $12.00, you can get a delicious filet of haddock basket with fries and cole slaw that's worth eating.

Haddock filet basket from Pemaquid Co-op, bottom right

 This is fresh fish delish, and a great value.

    But this past weekend, my fried fish world was changed forever. Cheryl and I met an older couple down at Morse's Sauerkraut a few weeks ago, and they suggested we try Bet's Fried Fish, just north of Boothbay Harbor. Here is a short video made about Bet's : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg5pt5M5cE0.   From Route 1 in Wiscasset, travel south on Route 27; at the village green look left for a sign that says "Free Beer Tomorrow". This place is as basic as it gets; it's a shack and some picnic tables, with two soda vending machines. There is nothing but fresh haddock and fries on the menu.  But let me give you my most earnest assurance: this is FRIED FISH HEAVEN. There is no better --- incredibly fresh, perfectly breaded, served hot with home made dill tartar, home made french fries from local spuds, and an enormous portion. My "basket" (actually two baskets for one portion) was $16. but could easily feed two people:

Bet's --- simply the best!
I learned from a Mainer in an old Chevy truck with a "Bet's Fried Fish" bumper sticker that Bet was originally in the fishing business and had at least one commercial boat herself. She has obviously retained her connections to the good stuff. Her fish is "just off the boat" and she stops cooking when it runs out. I looked into that shack and saw her frying righteously for the people.
Lunch time at Bet's.  So good!
     Everyone says that Red's Eats in Wiscasset http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red's_Eats is the best lobster roll in Maine; honestly, I think so, too. And they do a pretty good fried fish basket. But it is a heavy beer batter breading and is often too greasy. If your companion insists on waiting an hour for her lobster roll, a haddock filet is worth having but sorry, it cannot hold a candle to Bet's.

     Last place and dishonorable mention in the fried fish / fish chips awards goes to Coveside Restaurant in South Bristol http://www.covesiderestaurant.com/restaurant.html . We are attracted to this location in lovely Christmas Cove in South Bristol. Coveside is a great place to meet friends, have a drink, check out the fancy boats at this working marina. But my fish and chips were terrible and Cheryl's fish tacos ditto. The fish tasted frozen and soggy (a friend who joined us for lunch asked "How can you mess up a ham and cheese sandwich?"). We did not finish our meals. And it was expensive. Next time, we'll stick with a beer (if it's bottled).

      Enjoy and tell me what you think.

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