I’ve just returned from our “camp”
(a Maine-ism for seasonal lake cottage) up in Damariscotta, Maine, where I have
been preparing a special post about the joys of fall in mid-coast Maine.
It must be said by way of introduction
that summer is clearly “prime time” around Damariscotta and the Pemaquid
Peninsula. There are numerous lakes, including 9-mile Lake Damariscotta,
streams and riverways, beaches, ponds and all the water sports, camping, and
warm-weather activities you could ask for, set in a landscape of rolling hills,
farms, and beautiful New England coastline.
But this area, about an hour north of
Portland, saves some of its best and most family-friendly activities for post
Labor Day. Most of the stores, seafood shacks, and restaurants stay open until
Columbus Day. Traffic is no longer a bother, and the fall colors are bold and
beautiful. I have invited some of my ESL students from other countries to
experience a weekend in mid-coast Maine for a taste of New England, and
all of them have returned raving (in a good way).
So let me hook you up. Below I have set
out some of my own suggestions and asked some local friends for theirs.
The
Damariscotta Pumpkin Fest http://damariscottapumpkinfest.com
is probably the major event of the autumn, and with good reason. It runs this
year from October 5-14 with the culminating events sprinkled over the Columbus
day weekend. Enormous pumpkins are artfully decorated and placed all over town;
other pumpkins are hollowed out, decorated and raced with outboard motors on
the river. Lots of activities, food and fun for all ages, and well-organized.
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| a hollowed out pumpkin for the race |
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| carved pumpkin from the Fest |
The wonderful Mill
Pond Inn in Damariscotta Mills http://www.millpondinn.com
is a perfect place to stay. This sweet spot on the southern edge of
Damariscotta Lake is conducive to swimming and kayaking, and the Inn makes an ideal base for exploring. My friends Bobby and Sherry Whear have owned the
Inn for 29 years and they share my enthusiasm for the Pumpkin Fest:
“Folksy,
all locals, lots of public support and the carved pumpkins are lovely,” Sherry
says. Bobby chimes in “Just enough people.” Sherry and Bobby will help you plan
a few outings according to your interests. [Enjoy art? Maybe you would like to
visit the gallery of painter Abby Williams or artist John Whalley http://www.johnwhalley.com, whose studio
is walking distance from the Inn.] Ask Bobby to make his famous blueberry
pancakes. Rooms are $140/ night.
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| back yard at The Mill Pond Inn |
I asked another friend and local, Deb
Wilson, to suggest her fave pick for fall fun in Damariscotta. She suggested an
event that is near and dear to her:
“The Fish
Ladder Restoration Celebration is held on the Saturday of Columbus Day
weekend each year to celebrate the return of juvenile alewives and the success
of the restoration. It's a one day event held from 11 to 3 pm and food is one
of the main events! We serve a variety of homemade soups and chowders in fish
ladder mugs that guests take home. The fish ladder is open for viewing and if
the fish cooperate, there are plenty of juvenile alewives to see. The spring
migration of adult alewives is fairly predictable--they arrive in late April in
schools and keep coming until early June. The juveniles spend anywhere from a
month to 6 months maturing in Damriscotta Lake before descending the fish
ladder and heading to sea, where they will grow for four years before returning
to spawn in Damariscotta Lake. Many of the juveniles stay in the lake or up
small streams until fall rains drive them out-- they then come down in
"clouds", descending backwards over the small falls that provide
transitions between pools.
Each year at the festival we have - "running of
the alewives contest." Neighbor Leigh Morrill makes and numbers wooden
alewives, which can be decorated (for a small fee) and entering in a race. They
are thrown into the fish ladder and the first one to "swim" under the
Route 215 bridge gets a prize.
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| Leigh Morrill's wooden alewives race to the bridge |
We'll also be declaring the winner of our $10,000 raffle
at this year's festival.
Check out our website-- www.damariscottamills.org for more information.”
This
event is great local color, educational and the small cost of any activity at
the celebration supports the rebuilding of the fish ladder. Again, you can walk
to the festivities from the Mill Pond Inn.
On September 29, the annual Pemaquid Oyster
Festival http://pemaquidoysterfestival.com
will be held at Schooner Landing at the bridge in downtown Damariscotta. If you
enjoy these tasty bivalves you can sample some of the very best in an informal
setting, along with chowder and other treats. Very reasonable prices, musical
entertainment, and educational exhibits round out a fine fall afternoon.
You won’t want to miss the lighthouse at
the tip of Pemaquid peninsula http://www.lighthouse.cc/pemaquid/.
Perched on the craggy rocks with bold oceanfront, it is the most photographed lighthouse in Maine,
and appears on the Maine quarter.
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| The Pemaquid Lighthouse |
Stop by the Damariscotta River Association on Belvedere Road (www.damariscottariver.org) for a great walk on its property, special weekend naturalist programs, and a wonderful Farmer's Market on Friday mornings until October 25.
I asked local celebrity Charles Chiarchiaro, Director Emeritus
of the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum www.ohtm.org to sum up the fall vibe in
mid-coast Maine. With a poetic style so natural to him, Charles said, “Maine is
very special. The loons cry, the eagles soar. So John, it’s about diversity,
and it’s about natural and human resources during a wonderful show of color.”
Who can argue with that?
Come to mid-coast Maine for a fantastic
fall getaway. You won’t be disappointed.
[See my post entitled Fried Fish Freak for
a few eating suggestions in this area.]
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