The Big Picture.
Our journey to Sri Lanka took place in January, 2019. We traveled from Boston to Doha, Qatar to Colombo, Sri Lanka on Qatar Airlines. We stayed one night in Colombo, met up with our tour group for 11 days, and ended the tour in Colombo. Then we hired a car and driver to take us down to Anatara Peace Haven Resort in Tangalle for four nights, hired a return ride, and flew out of Colombo for the return trip.
Sri Lanka, the tear-drop-shaped island nation about the size of the state of Virginia, sits in the Indian Ocean just south of India. It has been known by its current name since 1972; before that it was called Ceylon. It gained its independence from Britain's colonial rule in 1948. Before that, it was ruled by the Dutch for a time, and some coastal towns saw a Portuguese presence similar to towns in southern India.
A lush and fertile island favored with excellent natural resources, Sri Lanka has been a trading center and crossroads for hundreds of years. It was originally part of the Silk Road trade route. It produces an abundance of gems, rubber, many spices such as cinnamon and clove, and coconuts. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sri_Lanka#Pre-Anuradhapura_period The country enjoys one of the lowest extreme poverty rates and highest per capita income rates in Asia, and a 92% literacy rate.
Modern tourist travel to Sri Lanka was limited for approximately 30 years due to a civil war, but that situation ended decisively with the defeat of the Tamil Tigers by Sri Lankan Arm Forces in 2009. Since then, the political situation has been stable for the most part. As result, the world is discovering Sri Lanka, especially western Europeans, Russians and Brits. While the country lacks tourist infrastructure and transportation, it has been touted by the likes of Conde Naste, The New York Times and the travel press as one of the destinations of the moment, and with good reason. The climate during our winter is warm and sunny in the lowlands, and very comfortable in the anchor-shaped hill formations down south.
The food is cheap and delicious, and accomodates vegan and vegetarian travelers. One routinely smells clove, cinnamon, curry and incense near the temples. It is exotic and a very different culture, yet it feels very comfortable to visit, and not (yet) over-run with tourists. The people are generally sweet, friendly and genuinely hospitable. The scenery outside the cities is routinely gorgeous, with varieties of palm, banana, bamboo and rice fields, all irrigated by an ancient and effective system of waterways and reservoirs. Wild peacocks and kingfishers are ubiquitous, and in many areas, small elephants cross the primary roads at will.
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| Random photo of the countryside |
And for travelers interested or steeped in Buddhism, Sri Lanka has a special appeal. Besides being 70% Buddhist (mostly of the "old school" Theravada tradition), Sri Lanka has been home to a strong cultural and historical Buddhist tradition since the second century BCE, when it was introduced from India by King Asoka's son Mahinda. Indeed, there are many well-preserved Buddhist cave temples, historical sites, stupas with relics and other points of interest that are available to visit.
One way to visit and enjoy Buddhist sights in Sri Lanka is with a tour like the Pilgrimage to Sri Lanka Tour that Cheryl and I took in January, 2019. We found it through Tricycle Magazine https://tricycle.org a national Buddhist review. Facilitated by dharma teacher Andrew Olendzki and Tricycle Editor James Shaheen, ReTreat Tours http://www.retreatours.com/srilanka2019/ put together a very compelling trip that started January 7 and ended 18. The tour was limited to 18 and there was an early sign-up discount we took advantage of. It provided good quality hotels, a very comfortable bus with driver and helper, all meals, and a fantastic guide/fixer with the disposition and patience of an angel. You can review the itinerary below in detail, but I can assure you the trip was very well paced, with day-trips ranging out from our three hotel stops. Besides Buddhist holy places, there were excellent "secular" adventures such as:
---- lunch prepared and served in a rice paddy
---- a visit to a tea planation, a wood-carving factory, and a gem factory
---- a "safari" to see elephants (maybe could have done without this; it was overcrowded and hokey)
---- a visit to a spice farm
---- a visit to the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy
---- climbing Lion's Rock (Sigirya)
---- the Royal Botanical Gardens in Kandy
---- a visit to the 19th cent. home of a farmer and his family for lunch.
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| Orchid House at the Royal Botanical Gardens |
January 6
We decided to take a day on the front end to normalize and see a bit of Colombo on our own. It is not what most people would call a beautiful city, but it does have a tony section known as Cinnamon Gardens, and a few worthy sights. We were based at The Shangri-La Hotel http://www.shangri-la.com/colombo/shangrila/ which faces out to the ocean and a controversial new section of the city being built (and appararently owned by) Chinese interests. The Hotel is lovely and offers a killer breakfast buffet, but we did have an irritating problem with an early check-in we had arranged through our credit card services.
We offer two recommendations for Colombo. One is the very interesting Buddhist temple and social/education center known as Gangaramaya. http://gangaramaya.com . It's a visual feast and great people watching.
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| Gangaramaya Temple |
And now, please have a look at the itinerary details for our tour with ReTreat/ Tricyle. Some of my own photos
January 7
Ayubowan–welcome to Sri Lanka! This journey officially begins with dinner at 7:30 PM tonight. If you choose to arrive early, we can help you with logistics. (Please see the “Early Arrival” tab on this page for more information.)
You’ll be greeted at Bandaranaike International Airport and take a short drive (~30-minute drive) to our hotel in coastal Negombo. Tonight we’ll enjoy dinner together and you’ll get to meet your fellow pilgrims. Over the next 10 days you will thoroughly explore the ancient heritage sites of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle. The relaxed pace of this trip allows downtime for synthesizing the sites you see, personal practice, relaxation, and the itinerary allows plenty of opportunity for discussion with your fellow pilgrims and Andrew Olendzki.
January 8 – 10
For the next few nights, we’ll use Anuradhapura as our home base as we explore the local treasures.
After breakfast on the 8th, we’ll visit the Salgala Forest Monastery (~90-minute drive from Negombo). The name ‘Salgala’ is a derivative of ‘shila guha’ or ‘shila gul’ meaning ‘rock caves.’ This forest has trees well over a hundred feet tall and thick undergrowth, and it is also home to 30 varieties of rare butterflies, birds, and many reptiles.
After Salgala, we’ll continue on to Anuradhapura (~3-hour drive). Anuradhapura is the most celebrated of Sri Lanka’s ancient cities and contains the largest number of ancient monuments of the great Sinhala civilization. Its greatest treasures are its dagobas, or stupas, constructed of small sun-dried bricks.
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| Cave painted Buddha |
Perhaps the city’s most renowned relic is the sacred Bodhi Tree, a direct descendant of the original tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment. This tree was planted in 288 BC and is the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known planting date. The sapling was brought to Sri Lanka in the 3rd century BC by Sangamitta Theri, the daughter of Emperor Asoka and founder of an order of Buddhist nuns in Sri Lanka.
You’ll also have the opportunity to discover Mihintale, known as the cradle of Sri Lankan Buddhism. In the year 247 BC, Buddhism was introduced to Sri Lanka at this spot by Arahat Mahinda to King Devanampiyatissa. This picturesque site holds sacred many stupas, ponds, and boulders to explore and enjoy.
January 11 – 13
Moving on, we’ll use Sigiriya (~90 minute drive from Anuradhapura) as our next base of operations. Today we will explore the impressive Dambulla cave temples, dating from the 1st century BC.
We’ll also explore the ancient city of Polonnaruwa (~60-minute drive), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Polonnaruwa was the capital of Sri Lanka from the 11th to 13th centuries, and its monuments are preserved beautifully. From the rock temple at Gal Vihara to the Royal Palace and the circular relic house at Vatadage, Polonnaruwa’s sites are sure to fascinate and inspire.
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| Classic stairway with moonstone and temple guardians |
On your last full day in Sigiriya, we’ll depart early in the morning for the opportunity to climb the iconic rock fortress (“Lion Rock”) (~30-minute drive). This ancient complex includes the impressive 660-foot (200-meter) remains of this former capital. Constructed in the 5th century, this UNESCO site is one of the best-preserved examples of ancient urban planning, from the ornate gardens and colorful frescoes to the imposing “Lion Rock” itself.
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| Lion Rock, shrouded in a bit of fog |
After our climb we’ll visit a Sunday Dhamma school to connect with local children and learn more about their lifestyle and their Buddhist studies.
This afternoon we’ll experience a jeep safari at Minneriya National Park. Although it is home to 24 species of mammals, 160 species of birds, 9 species of amphibians, 25 species of reptiles, 26 species of fish, and 75 species of butterflies, the undisputed crowd favorite is the amazing Asian elephant population! Witnessing these majestic creatures roam freely in their natural habitat is truly a breathtaking, humbling experience.
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| Lunch cooked on a clay stove |
January 14 – 16
On our way to Kandy (~2.5-hour drive), our home base for the next 3 nights, we’ll explore Aluvihare Rock Temple. Aluvihare Rock Temple is the historic location where the Pāli Canon was first written down completely in text on palm leaves. It is said that 500 scholarly monks congregated at Aluvihare to perform the difficult task of reciting the doctrines and agreeing on an acceptable version before transcription.
Kandy is yet another former capital and the second largest city in modern Sri Lanka. Kandy is home to countless temples and we’ll visit several important venues, including Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa). This temple is a venerated place for the Buddhists all over the world, as it is said to house the Buddha’s left canine tooth, retrieved from his funeral pyre. This important relic was smuggled into Sri Lanka in the 4th century and had been carefully enshrined in many former capitals of Sri Lanka, finally coming to rest in Kandy in the 17th century.
You’ll also visit the Buddhist Publication Society (BPS), a charity whose goal is to explain and spread the doctrine of the Buddha. It was founded in Sri Lanka in 1958, and for thirty years, the BPS in Sri Lanka was the most important publisher of Theravada literature in English. You’ll spend time at the moving Forest Hermitage; for many guests, this feels like a true pilgrimage site, understanding the BPS’s importance in the dissemination of Buddhism through the west.
On your last day in Kandy, pay a visit to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya, renowned for their magnificent orchid collection. The origins of the Botanic Gardens date as far back as 1371, and the framework for the modern-day Botanical Garden at Peradeniya was formally established in 1843. Once reserved exclusively for Kandyan royalty, today everyone can enjoy the most impressive and largest garden in Sri Lanka, including 4,000 labeled species.
Afterwards, enjoy lunch in a local family home to get a true taste—in every sense—of what village life is like in Sri Lanka. You’ll experience an interactive cooking session with a Sri Lanka family and have the opportunity to gain insights about village life, customs, and Sri Lankan traditions.
January 17
This morning we’ll bid farewell to Kandy as we head back to Colombo for our final night together. On the drive back to Colombo (~4 hours) we’ll visit a local mid-grown tea plantation and tea processing factory. Sri Lanka’s tea productions over 300,000 metric tons per year! The Kandy area is famous for mid-grown tea, located at elevations of 2,000 to 4,000 feet; the first tea plantations were established right here!
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| Retail counter at the tea factory |
Before you reach Colombo, you’ll visit Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara, believed to have been hallowed during the third and final visit of the Lord Buddha to Sri Lanka, eight years after gaining enlightenment. This stunning complex features an 18-foot stone statue of Avalokitesvara and beautiful murals by Sri Lankan artist Solias Mendis which depict important events in the life of the Buddha & the history of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.
Tonight we’ll have our final dinner together and reflect on what we have experienced and learned during our time together!
January 18
The retreat officially ends after breakfast today. However, if you need to leave late on the 17th or early this morning, or if you wish to extend your time in Sri Lanka, we can advise on those arrangements!
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For the entire tour there was optional sitting meditation daily, and often an evening discussion with Andrew about dharma or some aspect of Buddhist studies, again for those who were interested.
ReTreat Tours does a great job providing information, orientation, the visa, and other particulars. It can help with shopping airfares and air arrangements. It creates a "Face Book" --type contact interface with pictures of your fellow pilgrims and a "What's App" connection to them. By the way, the group was a wonderful collection of smart, kind and friendly people. We all became quick friends and travel buddies. My wife is not a Buddhist practitioner, but she thoroughly enjoyed the people and the trip.
All in all, I found the Pilgrimage to Sri Lanka Tour to be first rate, a terrific value and a great learning experience. ReTreat and Tricycle offer other trips to Asia that are well worth your consideration. Check their respective web sites for details.
Beach and Bundala
For a sweet finish to our time in Sri Lanka, Cheryl and I decided to live it up for four days at the Anantara Peace Haven Resort in Tangalle. https://www.anantara.com/en/peace-haven-tangalle This is a 152-room and villa resort located on the cliffs at the southern tip of the Indian Ocean. It boasts a spa, two pools, ocean front, tennis & fitness center, two award-winning restaurants, a farm with rice paddy, and some incredible views. Prices are decidedly high, especially for Sri Lanka, and the 33% extra for service charge and VAT is almost unconscionable. But this is luxurious, relaxing experience, with fine facilities and food, and even an assigned care-taker to take care of you.
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| view from Anatara south |
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| Rice field at Anantara |
One of the best outings from our time in Sri Lanka was an early-morning visit to Bundala National Park with a guide and driver. You can read about Bundala here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bundala_National_Park , but most impressive to me was a lack of crowds, 197 bird species, and some great scenic shoreline. Highly recommended. Photos below are by Cheryl.
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| pair o' kingfishers |
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| yes, a ring-necked parrot at home. |
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| Loving the ride at Bundala |
On the way to the airport and our late flight out, we asked our driver for a few hours in Sri Lanks's second largest city, Galle, to walk around the historic area and find some dinner. Galle's claim to fame is its old Fort, a walled area established by the Portuguese in the 16th century, expanded by the Dutch and British. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it seems a bit tired and even touristy in parts. The beach town of Unawatuna is nearby and is supposed to be awesome, but we'll have to save that until next trip.
Love Sri Lanka, a country with much to recommend it. As always, feel free to contact me for any other details. Happy traveling to all.
What a great trip, John & Cheryl!
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