spybird travel

spybird travel

Wednesday, September 19, 2018

"The Napa Valley of Oysters"

       Personally, I would rather eat fresh seafood than just about anything else. And happily, there is more than ample opportunity to indulge my seafood desires where I live part-time, in Midcoast Maine (by Midcoast I mean about 1.5 hours north of Portland, on the coast). I have posted here numerous times about my adventures as a "fried fish freak" and my adoration for Bet, the force-of-nature behind Bet's Fish Fry on the Boothbay Common (now closed for the season). But there are other joys to explore, even beyond the ever-present lobstah roll. 

      This year I have enjoyed more oysters than ever before, and lately I am meeting more local folks in the oyster business -- farmers, servers, business owners. So I thought it might be fun to guide friends and readers through some places where they might learn, taste and enjoy their own oyster experience. Right now, early Fall, is prime oyster-harvesting season, a good time to get your oysters on.

      First, the warning part: sometimes you can get sick, very sick, from eating a tainted oyster. This has not happened to me, but I know it happens. After reading up on illness from oysters, my own strategy has been to eat oysters that are fresh, kept cold, and come to me close to their source. I also eat them cooked a good part of the time. 

      It turns out that the Damariscotta River presents excellent conditions for growing oysters, and in fact this has been the case since before Christ. While in the area you can visit the Whaleback Shell Middens https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whaleback_Shell_Midden which were formed between 200 BC and 1000 AD by prehistoric people dumping their oyster shells by the river. There are two midden sites in Damariscotta and Newcastle; I believe that both are in the Register of Historic Sites.

      Today, the River is known as "The Napa Valley of Oysters," since it hosts more than a dozen oyster farms that actively grow oysters under a variety of conditions to create a palette of tastes and consistencies. Some oysters are grown lower and closer to the river bottom, and they will have a bolder flavor that many favor. Those grown closer to where the river meets the sea have briny flavors that people love. It's fun to sample, so my suggestion is to head to a place like The Shuck Station on Maine Street in Newcastle, Maine https://www.facebook.com/ShuckStation/ and try several kinds. My man Brendan Parsons and his staff (esp. Joel) do a fantastic job providing patrons with oyster education and maybe 8 different varieties of local oysters fresh on any given day. You can do a "taste of the river" plate. Beyond this, the staff at Shuck Station has come up with some exciting dishes using cooked oysters --- like fried in a po'boy and oyster tacos, and poached in "brushella" with pesto, fresh tomatoes and a thick slice of mozzerella. Oh, my, that is so tasty! Anyway, the Shuck Station is my "go-to" these days, and my band 32 North plays outside sometimes, so please check it out. 


Map of Damariscotta River showing Farms (courtesy Shuck Station)


Fried Oysters and my fave, Rockefeller


Oyster Taco (above) and Brushella (below)

       For excellent "oyster ed" and some of the best oysters in the area, take a lovely drive on River Road in Newcastle and head down to Glidden Point Oyster Farm  http://www.gliddenpoint.com . Here you can bring a cold bottle of Sauvignon Blanc or Sancerre and buy your Glidden Point "selects" at $1.50-$2. per oyster. A very well-regarded oyster. You can shuck your own and enjoy them on a picnic bench. Glidden also does an oyster tour (with the awesome Annie) and this is fun and educational. Check with the farm re times. 


More Rockefellers (above);  Annie explains oyster growing, and  some Glidden selects with BYOB (below)


       In Damariscotta, King Eider's Pub  http://www.kingeiderspub.com/1003/Page.aspx presents a very respectable oyster option. Go downstairs into the pub, and order 6 or 12 and enjoy with a variety of brews or other bevs. Fresh, iced and expertly shucked, the Pub does a fine job. But it is a big "tight" downstairs and raw is usually the only option. 

     We have brought friends and family down to Broad Cove Marine and "Lusty's" to enjoy lobster, steamers and other seafood treats in an authentic "in the rough" wharf setting. http://www.broadcovemarine.com/lobster---seafood.html I haven't had oysters there, but lobster and steamers are well-priced and super fresh. And the place is still undiscovered, so never a wait.

      Remember that some of these places close for the season (often after Columbus Day) so always call first. 

      THIS YEAR'S OYSTER FESTIVAL takes place on SEPTEMBER 30, 2018 at Schooner Landing in Damariscotta https://www.damariscottaoyster.com/about/. Mountains of local oysters prepared different ways with exhibits, music and a great atmosphere on the water. Come out and enjoy!

        



3 comments:

  1. After reading your post about "The Napa Valley of Oysters", I am salivating profusely and can't wait to slurp bivalves on my own educational tour of The Damariscotta River Basin!

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  2. I'm not an oyster fan, but you make me want to be, John. Bob and some friends indulged in King Eider oysters when we were in town for a quick stop (I owe you a call next time) -- the oohs and ahhs were non-stop. We also found a number of good Lobster shacks in the area:

    McLoon's in South Thomaston -- byob, and worthy view.
    Luke's in Tenant's Harbor -- great beer - recommend Smiling Irish Bastard.
    Robinson's in Southport -- great everything.
    Till next time...

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    1. Thank you, dear Deb, for your comment and excellent lobsta steers. I will keep these noted and give ‘em a try. Hugs as always!

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