Spain, 2015, Part 2 -- Menorca es mejor.

   Menorca is one of the Balearic Islands off the eastern coast of Spain in the blue Mediterean Sea, usually accessed by air or ferry from Barcelona. Its name comes from its relative size compared to Majorica, the largest of the Balearics. It is a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1993. There are two larger port towns of about 30,000 people on either end of the island; these are Mahon and Ciutadella.

I've had a fantasy about visiting Menorca for about 10 years now, since visiting Majorica, and I'm here to report that this island does not disappoint. It has fantastic natural resources, a fun, laid-back kind of vibe, monolithic structures, 900 species of wildflowers and some of the best beaches anywhere. The beaches, virtually unknown outside the Balearics, number over 100, and are as accessible or remote as you like. Most invite swimmers; many have services and even restaurants on them. This is not a place for nightlife (go to the infamous Ibiza for that), but offers lots of appealing, family-style amusements, food and drink, and plenty of outdoor activity.

We stayed in Mahon, the large town closest to the airport. Our hotel, Jardi des ses Bruixes, http://hotelsesbruixes.com/en/, came at the recommendation of a friend of mine in Barcelona. It was an excellent choice. The 8-room property is well-located on a quiet street in town, with lots of characteristic charm. Its rooms are spacious and the bathrooms have been redone with lovely modern fixtures and appointments. The staff is warm and helpful. Breakfast is a treat. As a bonus, there is a wonderful rooftop with good views. We enjoyed our stay immensely and give Jardi two thumbs up.

Great Comfort Room at Jardi de see Bruixes

Rooftop view from Jardi

We enjoyed two beach visits during our time in Menorca,  the sprawling Playa Son Bou and smaller Es Grau. We found that many beaches and all towns are easily and affordably accessed by public bus from the Estacion Autobus. Buses came and went on time, and the driver sells tickets on board.

To get "the big picture," we decided to book the "Island Tour" with Excursiones Mernorca. This was a full day affair, including a walking tour of Ciutadella, visit to a cheese-maker, some time in the fishing village of Fornells, and a visit to the shrine on top of Monte Toro, the highest point on the island. Our guide, named Alex, was knowledgeable and spoke English well. The trouble with the tour was the hour and a half from pick-up to the point where the tour begins on the other side of the island. Of course we had to chase down stragglers at several points and spent a lot of bus time getting to and from Cuitadella, picking up and dropping off others. But a good tour; 42E per person.

Naturally, one gets hungry with so much exploring (and shoe shopping. The local shoe, avarcas, are a big hit with my sweetie). Here are a few restaurants and recommendations:

1. Cas Ferrer de sa Font (www.casferrer.com) is a small, organic restaurant in Cuitadella. They have already received accolades from Forbes and The New York Times, and with good reason. This is delicious, unpretentious homemade food with attention to quality ingredients. Lamb ribs were flavorful as was the salad. Special mention to the mint chip ice cream, which was superb. This restaurant definitely deserves your visit.

2. Torralbenc is a Menorcan farm that has been transformed into a hotel with luxury spa, pool and restaurant under the "renowned chef" Paco Morales. The property itself is simple but stunning and well-worth a visit. The food was good but not worth all the fuss we had heard. There was a vegetable medley that sounded better than it was and purposefully included two leaves of white fat (for flavor?). I kept wishing they were noodles. My pork shoulder was good but nothing special. I would probably not go back unless I could swim in the pool (but then I couldn't afford dinner...).

3. Restaurante C'An Burdo in Fornells in said to be THE place for the local lobster stew, oldest and best. It is right on the water in town. Personally, I think it's a tourist trap. The lobster stew was good (not the creamy, spud-filled affair we have here in New England), but I bet there are better places for it.

The famous lobster stew in Fornells.

4. Ses Fourquilles (C. Rovellada de Dalt, 20) in Mahon is my favorite place to eat in Menorca. It's so good we went two nights in a row. They serve small plates from a menu and have 20 or so specials listed on the blackboard every night. The food is fresh and imaginative, the staff is fun and the wines by the glass are tasty. There is one dish called patatas bravas that makes the best bar snack ever. It is simply fried squares of potato topped with fresh tomato sauce laced with garlic and basil. We also loved the avocado "cannelloni" with fresh raw Asian-flavored tuna inside. Tempura asparagus were heavenly. Likewise the fish tacos. Great food in a great atmosphere. Can't wait to return.

patatas bravas

Menorca is one of those hidden gems we hope does not get discovered anytime soon. It has a wonderful timelessness about it and there is also a sense of mystery and allure. For those who want to explore more, there is a great app called Menorca (look for the blue capital M) that will provide details about all the beaches, hiking, services, food and accommodations.

Thanks for visiting. On to Madrid next!