Spain, 2015, part 3 --- Madrid!

       As I have said elsewhere in this blog, Madrid seems like the forgotten step-daughter of European capitals, even though its metro area is third largest in the EU and its population exceeds 3 million. The city has a decidedly modern infrastructure, plenty of green space and first-rate metro, while it houses plenty of historic buildings and neighborhoods.

Lion guard at a government finance building

       Certainly one jewel in Madrid's crown is the incredible Prado Museum, with an almost embarrassing wealth of classic paintings like Goya, Velazquez and Rubens. Currently there is a wonderful exhibit of El Greco's work and a temporary showing of ten paintings by Picasso culled from various stages of his development. The Prado has free admission on certain days and times, which are worth seeking out to avoid the 24E entrance fee. The Reina Sofia is a modern art collection which we missed but will see next time. The Royal Palace is beautiful and imposing. The Plaza de Espana has the classic sculpture of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza to honor Cevantes. And the Buen Retiro Park is an expansive urban oasis, like New York's Central Park.

Arab-influenced architecture at the Bull Fighting Arena

     The Hospes Hotel was our base of operations, and is located in a convenient area in the northeast corner of the city adjacent to the Alcala Gate. It is a 5-star, with large, comfortable quiet rooms. The service was just okay. Housekeeping actually left our room open after cleaning by mistake (that could have been a disaster). And, the hotel attempted to charge us for water after they failed to leave us a promised bottle of water, and we sought some from the mini bar. Good breakfast, though.

       The new indoor food market near the oldest part of the city is a great place to shop and people watch, and nearby is Cava Baja Street, with some very old restaurants. One, called Restaurante Sobrino de Botin, is said to be the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world. We ate at Casa Lucas on Cava Baja 30 at the suggestion of our guide. We were not disappointed. They combined braised oxtail with dates and pistachios, rolled the mixture into meatballs and served as a small dish with a tasty sauce.

     Maybe the best meal of our stay came from a small but busy taverna off in a funky student/mult-ethnic enclave near metro stop Anton Martin. The place, called Taberna El Sur (Torrecilla del Leal, 12) seems to have quite a following on the internet. It was excellent. Lots of tasty options with large portions and reasonable prices. There was salad with nuts and goat cheese, savory small plates, dessert and the best sangria of the trip. Ask for Alex (even though he is a Yankees fan).

     Much of the fun here is just walking around neighborhoods and poking around. The people are very friendly and happy to guide you. Of all the Iberian ham we enjoyed in Spain, we had the best sample simply stopping into an old taverna for a quick snack.

    Love Madrid, don't neglect her. This is a wonderful, exciting city!