Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido

       Being in Mexico over the holidays was just what the doctor ordered. Six days in Oaxaca with three additional days on the Zicatela Beach in Puerto Escondido to get some sun and salt water. Flying through Houston is easy and convenient, and with a single hour time difference, one does not suffer jet lag or hardly any inconvenience.

Let me list some things to love about Oaxaca:

1. Yes, it is safe. I researched this before we planned our vacation and you can, too. Even the notoriously skittish U.S. State Department says "You're okay in Oaxaca." But even beyond the absence of narco-terrorism, this town, nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Madre, is family-friendly, easy on strangers, very comfortable. Taxis are inexpensive and much of the centro is on a grid, so easy to navigate.

2. The climate is perfect. Of course, this changes seasonally. But during late December and early January, we're talking maybe low 80s, dry and sunny during the day, sweater weather at night. At the beach it was about 5 degrees warmer and a bit humid --- great beach weather.

3. Low cost. My new gringo friends, Michael and Marcia, have been coming to Oaxaca from their home in Portland, Maine for years now. Michael says, "It's like having the pleasures of a Tuscan hill town for about a third of the price." Well said, bro. Mexico generally and Oaxaca / Puerto in particular, offer excellent value, and we visited at the most expensive time of year. An excellent meal at a good restaurant is $20. Beer and mescal are temptingly inexpensive. Even rooms are quite reasonable.

A couple dances to a high school band in the zocalo.

4. Great food and drink. The city of Oaxaca has long been considered the culinary capital of Mexico Cf. Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oaxaca,_Oaxaca). They call it the Land of the Seven Moles (say "mo-lay"). These are delicious sauces made up different ingredients, usually paired with particular foods. For example, the classic black mole, made with chocolate, is most often served with chicken. Yellow, green and red, all tasty. There is also amazing local cheese that tastes a lot like mozzarella string cheese. If you enjoy eating out, there are numerous restaurants with wonderful options (see below for some faves). Speaking of chocolate, Oaxaca is a fantastic place for chocoholics of all stripes. There are plenty of shops where chocolate is blended by hand for use in hot chocolate, chocolate malts and mole (see Mayordomo, below). Finally, try the chapulinas or grasshoppers (they're sort of flash-fried in almost no oil). High protein, low fat. These are not novelty food; they are an integral part of culture and cuisine. So do what the locals do: put some 'hoppers in your choppers.

5. Family-friendly. I mention this above but it bears repeating. There are lots of activities for families and the Mexicans themselves love children. There are enough conveniences to keep kids comfortable.
Check out the zocalo (town square) and all the family life there. Quite lovely. There's a new botanical gardens that has great tours (try to get Diego).  Or just enjoy a wedding parade or "sweet 15" party at one of the churches.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
Dusk at the zocalo.

6. Activities. Besides the zocalo and centro (downtown area) with shops, cafes, restaurants, gold-filled churches and basilicas, and pedestrian streets, the most famous and visited site nearby is Monte Alban, pre-Colombian period

Monte Alban / West side platform (Wikipedia)

home to the Zapotec people, built about 500 BC. Monte Alban is spectacular, full of vibe, and almost quieting. Guides are available at the site. Mitla, another, smaller site is also less than a half an hour away, less crowded and highly recommended for the design details on the buildings.

There are many markets inside and outside of Oaxaca. On the southwest side of the zocalo you will find the 20 November market, Benito Juarez market, Abastos and others. You can also visit wonderful markets outside of town. What will you see there? Everything from clothes to tools to produce and prepared food. I bought a rooster baseball cap that I really dig for $3.75 (I did not bargain).Tour companies combine these with trips to the archaeological sites. For example, we visited the fantastic Sunday market at Tlacolula combined with a trip to the Tule tree (a 2000 year old tree -- not sure what the big deal is, though), and Mitla. And we visited the fabulous friday market at Ocotlan with our man Alvin Starkman (more about him later).

Besides markets, there is knife-making, fine cotton embroidery, clay pottery, paintings, rug-making using ancient techniques (like cochineal --- a tiny bug that attaches itself to a cactus and produces the dye used in Campari, make-up and Campbell's soup), and glass-blowing.

7. Alvin Starkman is one of the things to love about Oaxaca. He is a Canadian-born resident of Oaxaca, owner of a B&B, and tour guide par excellence. He will arrange tours for you and your party that last a half day or a day, and he will take you places you would not find on your own. Besides being great company and super-informative, Alvin is an expert in artisinal mezcal production. He will bring you out to tiny distilleries where the time-tested family production techniques for Oaxaca's state drink, mescal, are practiced in their glory. It is fascinating and sometimes intoxicating. I can't recommend Alvin's services and tours highly enough. I believe we paid something like $27. per hour. I must admit that I told Alvin he was too inexpensive. Oh yes, and he took us to a local country meal that was one of the best we've eaten in Mexico; superb! (Alvin, what was the name? Like a tree name? Humach…) Reach Alvin at: oaxacadream@hotmail.com

Hot chocolate made under abuela's watchful eye
A wonderful part of our day with Alvin.

Best meals:

Los Danzantes, Calle Macedonio Alcala 403 Great airy dining room, fantastic food and drink. I think our waiter may have been stoned, but he was so entertaining (and forgot to charge me for my mescal) I didn't mind. Braised pork ribs, fantastic salad and molten chocolate dessert, Oaxacan style, of course.

La Biznaga, Calle Garcia Virgil 510(?) Wonderful informal courtyard cafe with slammin' small plates and a great vibe. Good place to try "house mescals" at about $3 per shot, served with citrus, salt and chili and/or seasoned jicama. Wonderful.

Mayordomo. Yes it's a chain, but a must-visit. They grind their chocolate to order, and you can taste a delicious chocolate malted for a few bucks. Good photo op also.

Mezcaloteca, Calle Reforma 506. Adults only. This is a non-profit dedicated to the conservation and distribution of mezcal. With a reservation, they will do a tasting of 3 mescals for 100 pesos and educate you and your palate. Besides this, they bottle and label details of any mezcal sold on premises, so you know exactly what you are drinking. Helping the producers and providing a great service in a fine atmosphere; they deserve our support.

Mexita, 314 Martires de Tacubaya. The #2 Trip-Advisor rated restaurant in Oaxaca is Italian. Excellent wood-fired pizza, homemade pasta and homemade sausage, and a homemade limoncello free for dessert. I'm a believer. The pizza chef is from Naples so trust that he knows what he is doing. He certainly appears to have the passion. Excellent food and friendly restaurant atmosphere.

Zandunga, Garcia Virgil 512-E. Great appetizers and drinks in an informal atmosphere. Very close to Biznaga.

Itanoni Antojeria y Torilleria  Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma, Oaxaca is Alice Waters' favorite restaurant in Oaxaca (you can google it). Completely understandable. They make beautiful and delicious handmade tortillas in open brick ovens, then serve them to you with fried eggs and fresh veg fillings, crazy-good juices and coffee. The owner/founder was apparently a real corn aficionado, and the production is very authentic. This place often has lines out the door.

A place to stay in Oaxaca? Yes, I have a very good one, but I'm afraid it's getting too popular. Can you believe it? I'm officially a selfish blogger. But e-mail me and I may tell you where to go.

A few words about Puerto Escondido

My lovah is not a beach person because she is fair in all ways. But I love me some salt water and sunshine. I even frolic from time to time. So she will indulge me with a few days at the beach.  Zicatela is a nice section of PE, and if you're very careful (the undertow is treacherous and the surf is pro-grade when the swell comes in), you can enjoy water, prime seafood and the glorious Vitamin D.

We stayed at the Hotel Santa Fe which is directly across the street from the beach and has two of its own pools. Definitely more than adequate, but I don't advise dinner there. We signed up for the New Year's Eve dinner including "surprise appetizer." The surprise consisted of two crackers with dark tuna fish, mayo and peas. Not very festive.

On the edge of downtown PE there is a restaurant called Carojo where a woman who seemed like my Mexican aunt served the best octopus I have ever eaten. Incredibly tender, with garlic, oil and herbs. It was sensational.

The best octo ever.

 She told us the special that day was homemade paella, and the chef was just taking it out of the oven. It was a must have, and it did not disappoint. Fresh seafood, shellfish, chicken saffron rice and the rest. A fantastic meal. Cafecito on Zicatela is also very high quality, mostly breakfast food, baked goods and juices. Finally, we were very intrigued by Acai Bowls. This restaurant is across from the beach and upstairs among the shops and eateries cheek to jowl on the beach "boulevard." They serve acai, the superfood, with what, 300 times the antioxidants in blueberries. This spot is small, and the service is only one person behind a counter. The product is like a sherbet that is not too sweet. They will mix with fruit and peanut butter, but try one of these pure, by itself. Very good and, I guess, healthy.

Side trip from PE: the Manialtepic Lagoon. If you're a bird guy like I am, or you're just in the mood for a wonderful, relaxing day in nature, consider a trip to the Lagoon with a good ecotour company. I recommend LALO Ecotours with Evie. Have your hotel make the reservation because there are a few scam guides; we met a lovely couple from New Zealand who were burned by some imposter guides who took them out in a boat but knew nothing. The price is $40. per person for half a day, including a great rest/refreshment stop on the beach. Very worthwhile and informative. Remember: Evie.

I am so taken with Oaxaca. It is so easy there. The vibe is relaxed, the Mexicans are warm and welcoming. There are not so many European and Asian tourists as you might find in more popular destinations. The climate and price are right, and the victuals are righteous. Looking forward to a return trip very soon.

Thanks for reading!