BIRDS AND CULTURE IN GUATEMALA 2024

     I must admit that I was totally wrong in my thinking about Guatemala and what I would find there. Sometimes we're happy to be wrong, and so is the case here. I expected to find unrelenting poverty, danger and crime. I saw some poverty driving through Guatemala City, and the local guide's family we visited was poor (but not distressed). But my lasting impression is one of incredible natural beauty, warm and friendly people and a wonderful opportunity for inexpensive eco-tourism with a strong infrastructure.

     Once again, we were birding with a group of about 12. Our friend and bird guru Seth Benz, of Schoodic Institute in Maine, told us about this trip running for about 3 weeks in March, 2024. It was partially a benefit for Schoodic Institute and presented by Sabrewing Nature Tours (www.sabrewingtours.com). The trip included one of Sabrewing's principals, another Sabrewing guide, a fabulous and unforgettable local guide named Maynor and The Bird Whisperer, Seth. Lots of smart and talented birders. 

     The trip was expertly planned to cover a wide range of bird habitat, from grasslands to cloud forest to the lowland jungle. We started in the lovely town of Antigua and traveled mostly by van, and then, for the "extension" to Tikal, flew from Guatemala City to Flores. Perhaps the most memorable place we stayed was Guacamayas Lodge, perched on the Laguna del Tigre National Park. We saw no people other than those who worked there, and we boated out on the river at night to find owls, bats and nightjars. Another excellent stop was Las Tarrales, a large natural reserve in Patulul.

view from the lookout tower in Laguna del Tigre

Our guide Maynor found excellent places to eat when our lodges and hotels did not provide meals, and the food was always delicious and plentiful. My personal opinion is that the food of Central and northern part of South America is overlooked and written off without justification. The soups, stews and sauces are rich and complex and the fruits and beverages are fresh and nourishing. We met a local chef named Gabriela Requena in Flores at her restaurant, Nativo. The food was world class, creative and labor intensive. This woman deserves culinary fame, and her main dishes from local ingredients went for like $16! 

Incredible crepes before birding

   I should add that the birding was superb. We saw over 300 species and some of them were incredibly rare and beautiful (resplendent quetzal -- national symbol of Guatemala, the pink-headed warbler, jacamars, king vulture, trogons, motmots, etc.).

   

resplendent quetzal

pink-headed warbler -- very rare!

   Besides a city tour of Antigua, the other cultural highpoint was spending time exploring the ancient Mayan city of Tikal, which flourished in the first millenia after Christ. It was quieting and fascinating, and Maynor guided us perfectly to see the best of the archaeology and local nature, while keeping us comfortable and hydrated in 104F temps. Our birding activities usually required 1-2 hours hiking per day, but we did as much as 7 miles. There was no difficult or dangerous climbing. 

Tikal

   I would definitely trust Sabrewing to put together a good nature tour in the future. Of course, trips like this require traveling with others, but birders are generally good folks and pretty easy-going. 

OAXACA, PUEBLA, MEXICO CITY 2023

         This trip was fairly last-minute. We learned early in the Fall of 2023 that there were a few spaces left on a Day of the Dead group trip with our friend Marina Aguirre and Marina in Mexico (www.marinainmexico.com) and we jumped on them. Cheryl has always wanted to do this trip and I will return to the pleasures of Oaxaca for any reason!

We met in CDMX and traveled up to Puebla for the first few days. Puebla is a sweet town and has a lovely cathedral and easy access to the to town of Cholula and its archeological site. I have reviewed these earlier. The main thing I want to say now is the Hotel Boutique Casa Reyna    https://www.casareyna.com/es/ is where you want to stay, and also where you want to eat. Excellent rooms and service, the best moles and local food.

Moles of my dreams

A few new notes on Oaxaca. Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) is a beautiful holiday in Mexico. It is celebrated in essentially two ways -- the fiesta side with floats, parades, events as local businesses, and then the family gatherings "celebrating" and remembering dead relatives at cemeteries and home altars. Both are great experiences, but for access to the family side of the holiday, one needs to be invited through a local or someone like Marina. 

At the cemeteries, folks bring flowers, incense, fruit, candles, photos and sometimes music and hang out for hours on the nights of November 1 and 2. It's quite the scene and interestingly enough, not very sad; it's more like remembering and appreciation. It was a revelation to experience it, and highly recommended. 

Oaxaca is great place to eat, if you don't know. However, during holidays like Day of the Dead reservations can be difficult. There was a 2-hour wait at Las Danzantes (our go-to) so we switched gears and went to Crudo on Avenida Benito Juarez. This was the Best Meal of The Trip. Chef Ricardo Arellano is mashing up fresh Oaxacan ingredients with Japanese style and presentation for a seriously delicious eating experience. It's like a very unique omakase of 5 or 6 dishes with superb flavors and tastes. On the other hand, I was less impressed with Alfonsina, which is a new destination restaurant out near the airport. Food is served in a beautiful courtyard, but the meal itself was just okay. Two of the five dishes featured the same fish, some of the local vegetables seemed bland, and there was a faint odor of sewage. Maybe I was put out for having to travel half an hour for the meal. But let's say "once is enough."

We do like Zandunga https://www.zandungasabor.com/ for a more casual mood. Sit at the bar and have the house mezcal, which is always tasty, and different and a few apps from the menu. They also have a very cool dress shop for women, right next door. Finally, our group had lunch at the Quinta Hotel downtown, which was well-served in a lovely dining room, but not special or worth the price.

Marina is friends with many crafts people in the Oaxaca area, and one day we visited Manuel Jimenez, who has been making his carved, painted animals for decades. They are often copied and sold in markets around this part of Mexico, but his are unique, original, spectacular and very expensive.

We stayed at Hotel Casantica in the centro. Very nice people, but the rooms are pretty noisy and tired. I would "pass" next time.

As I say, I have rambled about Oaxaca, Mexico City and Puebla in earlier spybird posts, so just wanted to add these notes on new subjects and places. 

Don't forget Monte Alban, "a must visit."

Feel free to contact me about Oaxaca for recommendations!

BACK TO MINDO, AMAZONIA AND LIMA, 2022 / HIRE A GUIDE?

         This year we wanted to return to the wonderful natural treasures around Mindo, Ecuador. Mindo is about 1.5-2 hours from Quito, and happily, Jet Blue has a fairly easy and direct path there from Boston, through either Fort Lauderdale or Miami. So "the drill" becomes fly in the morning and arrive that same evening at a hotel in Quito, allow yourself an extra day in Quito (the highest capital city in South America) to acclimate and drink the ubiquitous coca tea, maybe do a city walking tour, and then arrange to be picked up and taken to Mindo or environs. Here you have made previous arrangements with an ecolodge or outfitter. We love David Brito and Las Terrazas de Dana https://www.lasterrazasdedana.com and would submit to you that whatever your interest, David can and will tailor a terrific experience for you and your party (more on this later). Aside from the 8 days we spent around Mindo and on tour, we wanted an urban experience added-on, and decided to spend three full days in Lima at a fancy hotel. This required flying from Quito to Lima on LATAM airlines, and then on the return catching a red-eye out of Lima on Jet Blue back through Ft. Lauderdale, and up to Boston by mid-afternoon. Please consider this information carefully, because Lima airport is overcrowded and those red-eye flights are a bear. More on this later also.  

I have written fairly extensively about visiting Quito in a spybird blog from 2018, the last time we were there: http://spybirdtravel.blogspot.com/2018/02/ecuador-2018-quito-mindo-quito.html. 

We can provide an update that Le Parc Hotel is in the middle of construction on two sides (they will not tell you this, however, when you arrive late at night asking for a quiet room to allow you some sleep). They are still nice people, though, and the room rate of $100. including breakfast is a real bargain. But make sure your room does not face the construction! 

For some reason, the altitude sickness was a bit more pronounced this time, even though we had taken medication for it. There was definitely some combination of headache and stomach upset, but I took it slow and drank the sacred coco tea and lots of water. The take-away is give yourself an easy first day to adjust and walk around a bit. 

We returned to Zazu http://zazuquito.com for another fantastic meal. The food is local and creatively prepared. Truly, it apprears like art on the plate. And the flavors are delicious. We wrote to Chef Wilson in advance and he was kind enough to spend some time with us and buy us a drink. The big winners here are the charred octopus with smoked octopus reduction, sweet potato and mesclun (I have sworn off eating octo everywhere but here); the sea bass cerviche, and the suckling pig tacquitos. The service is friendly, professional and welcoming. The prices are reasonable for what you eat. Love it at zazu!

The charred octopus at Zazu

and melt-in-your-mouth cerviche

As mentioned, David Brito arranges a ride to come and take you from Quito to Mindo, and the ride takes about 2 hours with a bio break and/or snack. I suggest you stop at a place called "Two Armadillos," which is in essence an outdoor coffee garden with hummingbird feeders. The owner is a sweet man, visibly happy that we had returned, and there are some excellent views across the hills and a variety of hummers at all times. 

Hiking with my Honey around Paz de Aves

                                                                     

At Las Terrazas we had a large, clean room atop the terraced hill, with an outdoor porch area, large bedroom and even larger bathroom with jacuzzi. David and Marco arranged some day trips to hummingbird areas with feeders, to La Paz de Aves sanctuary (with a hidden "lek" to see the cock-of-the-rock), antippa birds, beautiful hiking, breakfast, and other delights (highly recommended!), to the Mariposaria, to the Quetzal Chocolate Company and a guided tour with our friend Sergio. We were accompanied at all times by the wonderful Natalia, our guide for our time in Mindo and glamping in the cloud forest. Some meals were taken at Las Terrazas and these were excellent -- local trout with garlic sauce, tasty local soups, a variety of fresh tropical juices we enjoy so much.

After a few days of birding and relaxing around Las Terrazas, Cheryl and I were accompanied by new friends Natalia (naturalist guide and bird whisperer par excellence) and David (new bird guide and excellent driver/expediter) for several more days farther afield, out to and including the area known as Amazonia. We spent two nights at two separate lodges, Cabanas San Isidro http://www.cabanasanisidro.com near the Napo River and situated between two national parks, and then the Ama Ecolodge https://www.amaecolodge.com  in the beautiful and very different natural environment of the Nisahualli area. 

So just a few impressions of these respective places to roost. First, keep in mind that neither provide all the in-room amenities of a an urban hotel situation. The lighting is scarce, the rooms are not heated, and the bed & bathroom situation is good and clean, but not much beyond that. Adjust expectations accordingly. However, the natural siting of these lodges is superb, and both provide an excellent viewing deck to start your day with a cuppa coffee. Some very exotic and beautiful critters are drawn to them --- local owls, tapir, trogons, etc. etc. --- and are easy to see here in their element. The food at both lodges is excellent, and plenty. I would return to Cabanas Isidro tomorrow; we enjoyed incredible encounters with nature here. Ama is also excellent, and as a bonus provides access to a water experience in the local mangroves, which is fun and different. As a lodge it still has a bit of growing to do.

Black-and-white owl; nightly visitor at San Isidro

Tapir at the salt lick

We also stopped at Guango Lodge http://guangolodge.com for a lunch visit and some birding (with some unhappy French tourists). We enjoyed the most delicious lunch of our trip (Ecuadorian soups are a national treasure), the hummingbird feeders and a lovely walk down the river nearby, but housing looked a bit "tight" for the likes of us. 

David and Natalia dropped us at the airport outside Quito, and we flew to Lima to stay in style at the Belmond Hotel in Miraflores Park https://www.belmond.com/hotels/south-america/peru/lima/belmond-miraflores-park/  The Belmond, part of a boutique chain, is quite pricey, but it boasts a great location (near the park and water), excellent amenities and breakfast, and fine service. There is beautiful "upscale" mall built into the cliffs within easy walking distance from the hotel. It is called the Larcomar, and is worth a visit to see (and shop for?) the incredible llama/wool items. It turns out The Belo Bar at the hotel itself is a great place to visit and enjoy a Pisco Sour expertly prepared by Andre, the incredibly kind and cordial bartender/ambassador for the hotel. We had so much fun with Andre, we visited him twice. 

Andre doing his thing

And there are other activities worth your while in Lima. 

The Museo Larco has a wonderful Inca collection full of pre-historical artifacts housed in a beautiful old home with some lovely outdoor garden space. We also had an amazing lunch at the wonderful Astrid y Gaston https://www.astridygaston.com, a restaurant that is noted to be among Lima's best, and presents as a homey, unstuffy space in the yard of a large, old manse with excellent service and local fare. And all at a reasonable price (about $100. with drinks.). 

Chimu Funerary garb, about 1400 A.D. (Museo Larco)

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HELPFUL NOTES ON HIRING A GUIDE

If there is any doubt in your mind about whether you should hire a guide for some or all of your next trip, allow me to dispel it for you. You should definitely avail yourself of a good, licensed, local guide. I mean one who has skills, has been recommended and researched, who communicates well, and is freely available for the time you are considering. 

Why? Because a guide will take your experience to a much higher level --- whether it's because she knows where the natural world hides and displays itself, or he knows the history or best viewing place or best time to visit when other folks aren't there. Sometimes guides have friends who know the good viewing spot or just saw a jaguar nearby, or they know someone who can provide perfect transportation. Or they can call, identify or answer questions about an animal passing close by. In short, you are paying a small sum for their expertise and resources, which they are happy to share, to make your visit fuller, more fruitful, more interesting. 

We have been so privileged to know some incredible guides, people who became immediate friends and shared their passion for the place we visited with them, whether ancient Egyptian ruins or, mural art in Mexico or safari animals in Botswana.  They took me to see the red-capped manakin do his "Michael Jackson dance," the wild feral dogs as they feast on remains of an antelope, the only known Egyptian representation of Cleopatra in an ancient temple, the walking stick and the potoo both completely visible and yet invisible in their habitat.

Here's some advice to help you enjoy a guide experience:

1. Know what you're getting before you go. It's best not to pick up a guide at a tourist site. If you've been to The Red Fort or Taj Mahal, you know the scenario I'm thinking of, where a local guide will share his/her schtick with you or anyone else for an hour at a certain cost. Maybe worthwhile on some level, but better to have someone researched or recommended, at an agreed price, who will agree or recommend a certain itinerary over a specific time. If you have physical limitations, don't hesitate to make them clear. After a price is agreed to, consider an additional tip when it's time to pay. Also, note that there are often walking tours that are free, charging only tips. A tourist's dream!

2. Equipment? If we're thinking of a naturalist guide, our friend should have a field guide or the necessary apps, maybe a properly-used laser pointer or blue-tooth speaker or spotting scope or license/document to work in the area in question. Once we had a birding guide chosen by a local hotel in Panama who told us that he "forgot" his binos and field guide. We should have fired his sorry self from jump! 

3. Local for sure. I heard this story from a local guide in Africa: one of the lodge's clients wanted to bring his own guide with him. I heard it was because the client's guide was white and the client was racist. Anyway, the lodge allowed the white guide, gave him a jeep and a map and permission to access the safari areas. Within a day he had radio'ed home base saying he was lost and needed to be picked up. There are a couple of valuable lessons there. But trust me: local is the way to go.

4. Let her work!  This is very important. Know that a guide is often mindfully attending to her senses of sound, sight and even smell. This is how she finds stuff, especially birds and other critters. Let your guide work by being quiet and not talking. Of course there may be time to get to know your guide, exchange stories and learn about each other. But pick your spots and make sure you give the guide personal space and silence. The guide will never be rude and tell you to pipe down, but often that is the best way to find more good stuff. 

Please consider spending some of your time away with a guide to enhance your understanding and experience. Always feel free to ask me for details referred to in the spybird travel blog.

Happy trails!

John

 

BLUE HILL, MAINE & ENVIRONS

Most of our time in Maine is spent in the area I call "Midcoast," roughly 1.5 hours north of Portland on the coast. The base of operations is on Damariscotta Lake, and the peninsula where we spend most of our time is known as the Pemaquid Peninsula. But if you travel up along the coast past Camden, past Belfast, and then down the east coast of Penobscot Bay, there's another beautiful peninsula with some beautiful old towns --- Castine, Blue Hill and Stonington (over the bridge on Deer Isle). We are just learning about this area ourselves, but wanted to share a few cool points of interest for travelers and tourists based on a first foray there, summer of '22 Blue Hill is a sweet town and well worth a visit. There is a wonderful library, and a music festival at the local park some Fridays during the summer. The clothing shops and art galleries are worth a look, but perhaps a bit pricey. We stayed at the grande dame of the town, The Blue Hill Inn, https://bluehillinn.com, and it is well situated, (essentially, you can walk to everything); it also boasts quaint atmosphere and delicious homemade breakfast. My only complaint was the bed, which was fairly cozy for two and very noisy. One could not move in the bed without making a lot of noise. Maybe we'll ask for a different room next time. Kneisel Hall https://www.kneisel.org is a wonderful chamber music school and festival that produces a terrific summer program of music on weekends. Tickets are very affordable and the venue is sweet and intimate. Highly recommended. Nearby food options are numerous, including a Thai Restaurant, a fine dining establishment with an excellent rep https://www.arborvine.com (unfortunately closed during our visit), and the very reliable and varied Blazes, a high-quality restaurant that specializes in brick oven pizza, and has four or five sister restaurants in Maine. The Blazes in Blue Hill has two lovely outdoor spaces for dining when weather allows. Several points of interest farther afield. For great hiking, we suggest Harriman Point in Brooklin, Maine https://www.mcht.org/preserve/harriman-point/. This is a Maine Coast Heritage Trust property, and offers walks on the beach ("the Blue Hill Peninsula's largest continuous stretch of coastline open to the public"), and inside pine forest. The views are spectacular, and you can swim on the pebbly beach. Just be aware of mosquitoes; they were out in force in August with nary a breeze to discourage them.

Besides hiking, we offer two other "finds." You simply MUST make a stop to visit Eric and Karl at Pugnuts Ice Cream in Surry. http://pugnuts.com/index.html . These guys are not just slinging your Giffords or Round Top (no disrespect intended). This is WORLD CLASS ice cream and the best gelato we've had this side of the Atlantic. They sold 50 TONS of ice-cream in 2022, so they are closing early (Oct. 2) for some well-deserved R-and-R. Trust me, you want to make the trip next year. All fresh, homemade ingredients. The blueberry gelato and peaches 'n cream gelato were both spectacular. See you there! One more stop we highly recommend is Brooklin Candy Co. in Brooklin, https://www.brooklincandy.com. It's worth the trip just to meet our new friend Blossom, but this fun, rambling and quirky little store has a fantastic selection of old-timey candy (including a sentimental fave -- Choward's Violets), handmade goods, gifts, imported items for all budgets, and little treats that you didn't realize you needed. A wonderful, welcoming experience. Always happy to answer questions and make suggestions. Enjoy Maine and be kind!

Southern Arizona / Birding 2022

      It was our first vacation away since the pandemic came down in March of 2020. Now, two years later, we were inclined to stay in the U.S., and hatched a plan to visit to visit southern Arizona, as far south as the border, to do some birding with Arizona Birding Tours and its main man, Felipe Guerero, https://www.arizonabirdingtours.com . We also wanted to see my nephew James, who lives near Phoenix,  and stay a few days in Tuscon. 

     So, big picture, we flew Boston to Phoenix (direct flight, reasonable cost), rented a car, spent one night in Phoenix, 3 nights in Nogales, and 3 nights in Tuscon before driving back to Phoenix and flying home in the afternoon. Easy-peasy!

     In Phoenix we stayed at FOUND:RE Phoenix Hotel at 1100 N. Central Ave. https://www.foundrehotels.com. Found:RE is kind of hip and has some interesting pop art decorating in the lobby. Its the rooms are thoughtfully laid out. But the staff is calling it in, and it feels kind of industrial. 

                                

FOUND:RE PHOENIX Lobby

We had a terrific meal and beer experience at the college hangout Wilderness a few blocks away. Outdoor service and amazing salads and burgers. For a bev, try the "Puffy" -- a "fruited milkshake sour." Delicious.

The Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix https://dbg.org is lovely, and had a Chilhuly glass sculpture exhibit set in the desert that was pretty spectacular:

                                     

Chilhuly in the Desert

Driving south a few hours, we stayed with Nisa and Jeff at Hacienda Corona de Guevavi https://www.haciendacorona.com, a Bed & Breakfast in Nogales, Santa Cruz County. This is beautiful and historic space, where John Wayne and his family spent summers. We stayed in an enormous room with huge fireplace and bathroom with a whirlpool tub. At sunset there was wine and beer and nibbles. Nisa and Jeff are interesting and wonderful people. They get highest marks for hospitality and attitude. We were off birding early every morning, so they supplied delicious fresh fruit and baked good with coffee to take away. Highly recommended.

Sunset from the Hacienda

Birding with Felipe was excellent. He is a superb guide and extremely intelligent, especially in matters relating to ecology, birding, equipment, geography and earth science. Apparently this part of southern Arizona is a reknown birding hotspot in the U.S. We spent half-days at Patagonia State Park, Coronado National Forest, San Raphael Grasslands, Harshaw Creek Road, and a local hummingbird area with feeders, etc. He made sure to vary the locations and geography to show us more species. He also gave me some great birding tips and suggestions. We saw 51 new species, although somehow we missed the common roadrunner.  Next time!

Yellow-eyed vireo, through Felipe's binos

Since we had a car and time to ourselves during the afternoons, we explored Tubac (good for shopping, but arrive by 3 pm because it shuts down early). Another afternoon, we parked the car in a $5. lot and walked over the border to La Roca, a very good (but not excellent) Mexican restaurant on the Mexican side of this "two-country" town. https://www.larocarestaurant.com . La Roca is real old school with waiters in tuxedos and great ambiance.  The experience of walking over the border is interesting, but there is really not much to see. The town has little to recommend itself, except cheap dental services. Glad we did this in daylight.

One of our unplanned outings, to Kartchner Caverns State Park, was an excellent addition to the trip, thanks to our friend Jane. Fascinating tour and guides, great for kids and families. Reserve in advance or take your chances.

We headed north to Tuscon, and stayed for our last three days at Adobe Rose Inn. The Inn gets excellent reviews on Trip Advisor and guests gush about its perfect location and heavenly breakfast. https://www.adoberoseinn.com/ . The breakfasts are, in fact, spectacular --- three courses with enormous portions and inside/outside seating. Thousands of calories. The location is also really terrific for exploring. The inn-keeper is very responsive (we had a water issue in our shower) and a really nice person. BUT "know before you go:" (1)  our Santa Catalina Suite was small, tired, and dusty. It was not worth $300./night. as it needed a thorough cleaning. And (2) the check-in process on arrival is a bit off-putting and time-consuming. You have to find parking, go to the front of the inn to get an envelope with instructions, go back out and move your car to an area adjacent to your digs, then take your instructions and luggage and navigate through the two locked doors to find your room. 

One of our best outings was cocktails and dinner at the nearby Arizona Inn, the grande dame of Tuscon hotels and very upscale. Too expensive to stay, but great for a meal. 

While visiting with my awesome nephew James and his girlfriend JJ, we visited the oldest mission in the U.S, at San Xavier del Blac. Quite beautiful inside and out. We also tried local Mex food at Boca Tacos Y Tequila where a James Beard finalist is producing tacos, elote (roasted corn) and other goodies for the masses. https://bocatacos.com . This on North 4th Street where the local characters and college kids are wild in the streets (I mean literally). Well, the margaritas were good, and the food was fine, but Cheryl and I are a bit jaded, I think. And our waitperson was tripping, or something. I would choose a different spot next time.

Highly recommended is Saguaro National Park for seeing the cacti and hiking in the desert environment. We have a lifetime senior national park parking pass, and these come in very handy. We made friends with a volunteer who was very knowledgeable and fun to talk with. We hiked the Loma Verde Trail for 1.5 hours. It was great fun, but we did not bring sufficient water. Bring twice what you think you may need. It is very hot and dehydration sneaks up on you!

"Broccoli" Cactus -- double headed

Honorable mention: We loved Mexican Shaved Ice or raspados. These really help beat the heat! Cheryl found these as Rincon Valley Farmers & Artisans Market

Also, for those of us from New England, Dutch Brothers Coffee is a real find, better than Starbucks for sure. 

Enjoy southern Arizona in early spring for lovely weather and a real change scenery!

MIDCOAST MAINE UPDATES AND STEERS, 2021

      A few weeks ago our band 32 North was playing a gig at Shuck Station in Newcastle (excellent oysters, beer, cocktails, seafood and more), when a lady from San Diego, a second-time visitor to the area, came up to the bandstand and asked us where she should be eating in the area. I thought, "My, isn't she savvy." She said she was traveling with siblings, and they were keen to satisfy lobster and seafood desires. My bandmates all piped up with suggestions, and the lady tipped us before leaving. The lesson is, "Ask a local." I hope that lady enjoyed her time and food here.

     Well, 2021 saw a substantial return to tourism in midcoast Maine, especially on summer weekends, but still not as crazy as before the pandemic. Some events, such as Pumpkin Fest (October 9-11) are scaled way down, and the Pemaquid Oyster Fest is postponed again "until conditions are safe." However, the area provides lots of outdoor venues for fun and food, and I want to update this blog with a few new adds and new views:

1. One revelation this year is Barn Door Baking Company  https://www.barndoorbakingcompany.com/contact.  in Damariscotta. Sure, there are lots of good quality bakers around here to provide your whoopee pies, blueberry pies (Dorcelle Brown at Brown's Farm Stand is a pie meister), etc. But if fine baking that's "fresh, local and homemade" appeals to you, call Annie at Barn Door. We were blown away by her almond croissants, which are buttery, flaky, and full of almond goodness. I have not had better in the U.S. Also, Annie's gluten-free fudge cookies are "to die for," as are her cakes for occasions. She is our go-to now. And with a couple days notice, she'll make you almost anything you want. This is such a find!

chocolate layer cake for our anniversary

2. Jolie Rogers / Barbara Scully Oysters. If you crave an excellent, personalized oyster experience, you must see Andy or Ryan (the Jolie Rogers team) who work at Barbara Scully Oysters https://www.scullyseaproducts.com/buy-oysters  Edgecomb, Maine (on River Road). Ms. Scully is famous in these parts as an oyster pioneer,  as she first cultivated oysters locally back in the 80s. She is still owner in residence. But Andy and Ryan do store sales, shucking lessons and on summer Sundays, grilled oysters on the river. Try the Appledore oysters, which are big, sweet and briny. The Jolie Rogers guys will also provide oysters for events and weddings, etc. Andy, I believe, is a state shucking champion or something similar. Please tip these guys; they work hard and do a great job. Note that Scully also Fed-Ex's oysters in bulk to your home. BUT PLEASE call them and confirm your order particulars, as one friend had a problem with this when he did everything online.

below: Oysters on ice, and Marcos tries his hand at shucking

                                                             

3. Ice Cream #1. The best ice cream in the midcoast area requires a bit of a drive to Liberty, Maine. But you can combine this visit with two convenient side-trips to Liberty Tool and Liberty Graphics, maybe the best (and best-priced) tee shirt store anywhere. Back to ice-cream. Go to John's Ice Cream,https://www.johnsicecreamfactory.com  "makers of especially fine ice-creams and sorbets." We met a fellow there who lives nearby and literally works his way through all the flavors in a season. John himself comes from a Italian American family that came from Southern Italy, settled in NYC and made ravioli before John moved to Maine (sound familiar?). Superb, rich ice cream in many flavors. Next time I want to try the lemon custard. They made my vanilla frappe with malt, a special treat. 

4. Ice Cream #2, A more convenient option is Blanchard's Creamery https://www.blanchardscreamery.com on Rte. 27 Edgecomb. Everyone in Damariscotta talks about Round Top ice cream. It's okay,  but I don't get the fuss. Blanchard's is awesome, rarely crowded, and boasts delicious ice cream and yogurt flavors, baked goods and a Rancilio espresso machine for a first class pulled shot. Delish!

5. Chat and Chow. (207) 273-0132 I admit I avoided this food stand on Route 1 in Warren because the trucking business next door had huge Trump signs. But the mistake was mine, because these guys do an excellent fried haddock sandwich, burgers and a Gobbler sandwich (turkey, cranberry, stuffing) on Thursday. The owners are very sweet and aim to please. Good count, good quality. Fish does run out. 

6. Broad Arrow Farm  https://www.broadarrowfarm.com in Bristol is a fantastic source for cured meats, veg, fresh eggs, and butchered meats. They make excellent frozen meals like lasagna, lamb cooked three ways and, home-cooked casseroles, all for sale in the freezers. They also have wonderful events where you can dine al fresco at large tables in the farm fields with old and new friends. A great food resource!

7. Finally, a word of praise and support for Schoodic Institute, https://schoodicinstitute.org located up in the Acadia area. This is a fantastic non-profit that is located in the Acadia National Park area, dedicated to "science, learning and community for a changing world." The handsome grounds were once a Navy intelligence base and presents like a large university campus. There are lots of programs throughout the year to learn and see wildlife and nature in various forms. Excellent birding during migratory periods, and sooo much less crowded than Acadia Park proper, where we saw bumper-to-bumper traffic during prime time. Coincidentally, we had the great pleasure of bird-watching with this guy: 

Enjoy Maine; it really is The Way Life Should be. As always, feel free to ask any questions if I can help.

MIDCOAST MAINE / Summer & Fall, 2020

          It is indisputable that the Covid-19 Pandemic affected people everywhere, all around the world. Local travel around New England was no exception, and various states created legal fences and impediments --- some more impermeable than others --- to deal with the rampant spread of the virus. Maine was especially pro-active, with Governor Mills promulgating strict regulations relative to travel, isolating and testing. Some of these were enforced by inn-keepers and hotels. 

        The results of Maine's hard-nosed approach were interesting to see. For one thing, there was no traffic this year. None, even on weekends. For another, Maine's own population did remarkably well containing Covid-19, with a few notable exceptions (one involving a flying preacher and large wedding party up north). Still another result was that many businesses found ways to offer open air food and entertainment options, and these were well-supported and appreciated by locals and "folks from away" alike. For example, the magnificent Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens did great guns this summer, with limited entry numbers, social distancing, and masking. Farmers'  markets were ever-popular, as were all the "eat-in-the-rough" lobster and oyster establishments. There were tourists, but not nearly as many of them. 

       In the midst of the horrible and deadly pandemic, summer life in mid-coast Maine was a bit slower and more isolated. For those who were here, there was a healthy sense of caution and control, but there was also a unhurried vibe that married well with the first mellow summer of the 23 I've spent in midcoast Maine. 

      Our band 32 North may be an appropriate barometer for the experience of the 2020 season. We played 10 public gigs compared to 23 the year before. But all of the events had Covid protocols, all were outdoors, and all were well attended but not crowded. Masks were on when we were off the bandstand. Gary ate his band snack in his car. But it worked out fine, and it was still pleasant. 

     Through all of these challenges, we still need to eat and drink, don't we? 

     So this post brings a few new recommendations and second endorsements.

Here is my post about Delano's Seafood Shack from last year:

1. Delano's Seafood Shack. 100 Atlantic Highway, Waldoboro, ME. https://lcnme.com/business/delano-seafood-shack-opens-in-waldoboro/ I had low expectations for this new seafood shack, but tasting is believing. It sits next door to Delano's Seafood, a retail establishment with a good reputation for fresh local seafood. If you love the stuff like I do, the Shack does a terrific job with fried haddock and scallop baskets. "Good count, good quality," as my buddy Irving used to say. And reasonable prices. There's also soft-serve ice cream on site.

Delano's is even better now than it was before. The "shack" used for take-out ordering has expanded its repertoire with more sandwiches, burgers, etc. Its fried seafood is excellent and oh-so-fresh. The fried haddock basket, which is the golden metric in my world, is the second best I've had in the area (second only to the goddess Bet, of Bet's Fishfry in Boothbay). Management tells me they will be open year round.

The ice-cream shack is ready to rock, but has been held up by some administrative approval and Covid. Look for it in 2021.

INSIDE the fish market on the same property, super-fresh seafood is available at retail prices that are about 40% cheaper than what we pay in Boston. The "sushi grade" tuna at about $11./lb is fantastic, as is the Maine salmon and crabmeat. In the frozen section, you can often buy "heat and eat" meals like scallops and crabmeat with Ritz crackers and butter for $12. Overall, Delano's offers great value and excellent quality. Really nice folks, too.

On Wednesday evenings during the summer, the owner and his buddies bring their pristine antique cars and trucks to the big parking lot to show off. There is a large picnic area with tables, trees and a brook. It's all good fun.

Our friend Jennifer turned us onto The Hoot in Northport, Maine https://www.thehootnorthport.com     The Hoot represents the best kind of "farm to table" experience, serving delicious and imaginative food without pretense and with reasonable prices. Come to The Hoot for brunch and dinner, and experience Mexican Sweet Potato Hash, or Asian Char Sui Pork Omelet, or incredible Turkish food on one of its ethnic nights. There is outdoor seating, or indoor seating that is comfortably ventilated. This is absolutely one of the best all around eating experiences I've had in Maine. Unfortunately, the word is out, and waiting to get a table is common (but worth it). Thanks, Jennifer!

Finally, a pizzeria. Yes, I know pizza is pretty ubiquitous and generally mediocre in most places. I had three uncles in the New York pizza business growing up. One of them was a pretty major player. So I think I know my pizza (doesn't everyone?). But Oysterhead Pizza in Damariscotta https://www.oysterheadpizzaco.com does a very good job.  They use fresh ingredients, brick ovens and high quality meats to create very tasty pizzas, and also delicious sides. We suggest a large pizza with sausage, carmelized onions or shallots, and spicy vinegar peppers. Their "magic beans" (stringbeans) are also very good, as are their s'mores for dessert. 

We have had minor issues with getting orders just right, and the pizza dough is just a bit thicker than I'd like, but this is excellent pizza and very convenient. 

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A few more suggestions, these for going outdoors:

RIVERBROOK PRESERVE, WALDOBORO https://www.midcoastconservancy.org  A great place to hike with lots of varied terrain, an abandoned mill and river. Very small parking lot, off 220.

BEECH HILL PRESERVE, ROCKPORT https://www.mainetrailfinder.com/trails/trail/beech-hill-preserve Lovely, and fairly easy walk up a hill to the site of an old homestead. Wild blueberry bushes. Since the top of the hill is "bald," there are good vistas and bird-watching.

I know many friends were discouraged from visiting Maine this season for a number of reasons related to Covid and restrictions on the state's tourism. I am sorry to hear this. Hopefully there will be reasons to open the state more next year. In the meantime, I am happy to answer any questions I can.